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Rob,
I've had two LB uppers with the same exact problem. The pins were hammer tight on both regarless of the lower. What I used to open up the holes was labor intensive, but it worked. I erred on the side of caution and enlarged the holes by hand using, at first, 400 grit wet-dry paper rolled in a tube shape. Moving the sandpaper in and out while rolling the paper tube was effective, but took hours. For the second one, I started with 220 grit wrapped around a long roll pin punch as it was more rigid for sanding. I then moved to 300, 400, and finished with 600 grit and some polishing compound.
The takedown/pivot pins function normally on both now, but the odd thing is that I can't interchange them, i.e., when I do they're too damn tight on other lowers.
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Glad I'm not the lone ranger on this. I have a LB upper and I need a brass hammer to get it in the old pwa lower I'm using. I'm thinking now it is easier to use a RRA 9mm upper and have the tube hole drilled. Works great on all my lowers, even CAV lowers. No brass deflector hump either. I just can't go from slick side A1 uppers to flattops with crap on the side. This would be easier if I wouldn't have seen the the RDS light.:D
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I have a several year old noveske lower I finally got around to building up. the fit with it on my sr15 upper which I am using on it was horrifically tight. Rather than modify the receivers which are expensive pieces I just sanded down the rear takedown pin by hand with some 400 grit sand paper. it still fits pretty tight but the pin is easily removed using a round as a punch.
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Rob, I guess I'll go ahead and ask (as you have posted previously that you already solved the problem) what method you used and your general opinion of the method.
Tools, time, effectiveness, that kind of thing. After all, it isn't much of a help thread if the reader doesn't know who to trust and who to disregard.