Generic Rifle Cleaning Help

[Fr0gger]

Hey guys,

I read through the stickies on cleaning AR's, but I'm still overwhelmed with all the different choices and cleaning methodologies out there. Can any of you guys suggest a generic checklist on what supplies I would need for cleaning "a" rifle, be it an AR, a bolt gun, or, in my case, a 10/22? I just want to find out what I need before I start shooting so I don't have to rush into buying gimmicky cleaning products that don't actually work.
I understand that there is a degree of preference when it comes to these kinds of things, but I would definitely appreciate any suggestions if you have 'em (not trying to start a "best" war here).
Thanks in advance for any help.

[mallowpufft]

A 10/22 can be a bitch to clean if you get the action fouled the **** up.
All you need is a boresnake or Otis cleaning system, a rod with brush, jaggs, and patches and a clp of your choice (breakfree, mpro7, etc) RemOil works well on .22's but if you plan on using it on anything else get a decent clp.

For the ultimate guide I recommend checking this link: http://bit.ly/wB8uJ3

[J_Dub_503]

For AR's and Bolt Guns my preferred method is to remove the bolt/disassemble upper receiver and run a one-piece cleaning rod from the chamber towards the muzzle. Once the rod has exited the barrel, I remove the jag,mop,patch loop and pull the rod back out. This way is more time consuming but I can ensure my rifling stays in great shape. I generally don't clean in the field (at the range) but I keep an Otis cleaning kit with me just for good measure.

For a .22LR I douche them with Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner, run a dry patch through the barrel, and then spray some bore-foam down the barrel. After that I run another dry patch and then apply some Hoppe's #9. Seems excessive but it makes them spotless.

mallowpufft listed most of what you need but I would avoid RemOil. It doesn't prevent rust at all and it leaves a dry film inside your barrel (which has caused malfunctions on my personal 10/22.)

[Fr0gger]

Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate it. I'll probably pick up the suggested supplies - a cleaning rod, jags, and patches- sometime soon. I just have to decide on which CLP to pick up, which I'm going to assume is not the most critical decision if I go with something relatively well-known. Would you guys suggest that I stick to something more traditional (such as breakfree or slip 2000) rather than go with a newer, nontraditional product such as Froglube? I only ask because Froglube seems to have earned the praise of many members here, and thought that it may merit trying. Of course, I could always try it out later.

8ball29 - You mentioned using non-chlorinated brake cleaner on the rifle. Do you use that mainly as a solvent/degreaser, then use the bore foam and Hoppe's #9 as the lubricant and preservative? I hear a lot about using non-chlorinated brake cleaner on this forum.

[J_Dub_503]

8ball29 - You mentioned using non-chlorinated brake cleaner on the rifle. Do you use that mainly as a solvent/degreaser, then use the bore foam and Hoppe's #9 as the lubricant and preservative? I hear a lot about using non-chlorinated brake cleaner on this forum.

I use use the Brake cleaner to get off all the burnt powder that's caked to the FCG and chamber. Then, I lay the rifle flat and spray the Boar Foam down the barrel until I see it expand out the crown. The foam will "deflate" after a few minutes and then I run a dry patch or two down the barrel to remove the crud. After that, I run a patch of lube down the barrel and it's done. Hope that helps.
P.S.
Make sure you're outside in well ventilated area when you use the brake cleaner.
P.P.S. I'd say go with Slip2000.

[Fr0gger]

I use use the Brake cleaner to get off all the burnt powder that's caked to the FCG and chamber. Then, I lay the rifle flat and spray the Boar Foam down the barrel until I see it expand out the crown. The foam will "deflate" after a few minutes and then I run a dry patch or two down the barrel to remove the crud. After that, I run a patch of lube down the barrel and it's done. Hope that helps.
P.S.
Make sure you're outside in well ventilated area when you use the brake cleaner.
P.P.S. I'd say go with Slip2000.

Thanks, I think I'll go with that.

[mallowpufft]

I would avoid RemOil. It doesn't prevent rust at all and it leaves a dry film inside your barrel (which has caused malfunctions on my personal 10/22.)

I can't say that I've ever noticed rust on my .22's after using it but I'm worried now. I'll have to find my bore light and check them out.
I honestly just avoid Remington Thunderbolt (leads barrels like a mofo) and Federal Spitfire (dirtier than a whore at a donkey show) ammo and rarely clean my .22s. RemOil has been effective in keeping my Walther P22 from malfunctioning like it used to. But I recently discovered MPro7 and fell in love with it for my AR and my M&P. Haven't shot my 22's recently enough to have used it on them.