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Thread: which 3 knives?

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT1 View Post
    North American hardwood forests?
    I wouldn't think parang nor a tomahawk, I'd think axe or camp hatchet(Not some combat ax, something you'd actually chop wood in a serious way kind of tool) if I was going anywhere for a while.

    In my EDC bag I carry a Mora Bushcraft Carbon Black, and a chainmate. I carry a Wave on me all the time and the blades are quite capable and sharp, but I wouldn't baton kindling with it, the saw is pretty fair for the size.
    But I'm only interested in getting home, totally different if you are bugging out.
    a Kukri or heavy blade short machete will process a lot of wood though they may weigh as much as a small hatchet and a hatchet will chop easier because it doesn't get stuck in the log while chopping.

    the Fiskars X7 only costs $25 and is a hatchet that punches way above it's weight class. you won't do any felling or splitting of large logs with it but for around the campfire, it's a winner.

    I have a Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe and is the one I take with me in my pack. it's the best compromise of weight and capability. with a 19" handle and 1.5lb head you can use it for everything up to about 6" logs.

    you can choke up both of these axes to make shavings for tinder and eliminate the need for a large knife.

    for pure grunt neither of these compare to a larger axe in the 24"-26"/2.5lb head axe, what we used to call a 3/4 axe. this will fell and limb larger trees but are a little clumsy to make kindling. I can get away very easily with just this axe and a 4" knife...
    never push a wrench...

  2. #92
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    I will also vouch for the Mora Companion. Add a Kershaw Camp 10 and a Bahco Laplander folding saw, and for about $74 for the three of them, I have all I really need. On top of that, I might add a Husqvarna Multi-purpose Forest Axe (about $65) for more heavy-duty work.

  3. #93
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    Hogue EX-F01 7"

    Gerber Gator Clip Point

    Gerber M600 Needle-nose

  4. #94
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    I'd have my leatherman, a hatchet/tomahawk, and my SOG seal pup or Kbar.

    If it's strictly knives or blades I'd go with a gerber boot knife, a Kbar type fighting knife, and a machete. L

  5. #95
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    just got a PM asking about the Fiskars/Gerbers axes. I think there's some content here for everyone with the same questions and since I'm lazy and don't want to retype everything, here's my reply (with the name deleted)...

    -- anyway, the original x7 is similar/same as the Gerbers hatchet. this is the one with the poor edge performance and they don't offer this one as a Fiskars branded one anymore (just on principle, I stay away from anything Gerbers branded). it is a tiny bit lighter and the head is thinner/smaller than the current orange handle Fiskars x7. this is now my hunting hatchet as the poll is a little more rounded and works really well for skinning.

    now they have two Fiskars hatchets, a new all black one, and the X7 with the orange grip. I have and would recommend the orange handle if you can still find it ($23 on Amazon), simply because I have not used the all black one...

    they also make an orange handle x15 with 2.5 lb head on 23" handle. personally, the head is a just a tad bit heavy for the length, YMMV... I have one but only use this with my chainsaw for grubbing, splitting, and pounding wedges. both these little axes are light and sturdy and chop and split way above their weight class. in fact, I have two Gransfors Bruks axes (Scandinavian Forest axe and the Small Forest axe) and these Fiskars stay right there with them in performance, while being better splitters...

    recently, Fiskars brought out a 28" handle version using the 2.5 lb/ X15 head, but I have only seen it available in all black. this is going to be my next purchase for rough use/general camp work as I feel the handle length is better suited for the head weight and it should chop and split with a vengeance. $55 at Sears and I won't feel bad bucking dirty logs on the ground or miss and nick the bit. this will be the one I take to group camp outings for loaning out...

    on another note, I have a Husqvarna Forest axe which compares to the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe in size/weight. it's not as well finished and required quite a bit of file work to reprofile the bit, but when done, it performs every bit as good as the GB for half the price.

    hope this helps...

    Edit to add: for those who prefer a "traditional" axe to these Fiskars, one benefit of the Fiskars is the way they mount the head. a traditional axe use an eye through the head to mount the handle. the head is differentially tempered with the cheeks, eye, and poll being softer tempered than the bit. this is fine but if you intend to use the poll to hammer with, the force can bend or misshape the eye and lead to failure.

    the Fiskars axes use a solid piece of steel for the head with the handle molded around it and their tempering is uniform throughout so there is no danger in pounding with it. however -- I would NOT use either of these types of axes to pound metal wedges as there is personal danger from flying metal shards...
    Last edited by ra2bach; 06-11-14 at 13:11.
    never push a wrench...

  6. #96
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    ra2bach, the one criticism of the Fiskars hatchets/axes I've seen is that wood can get jammed between the head and the plastic "loop" so to speak, holding the head on. Have you experienced this at all? Would you say this is a design issue or operator issue? Thanks.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Know1 View Post
    ra2bach, the one criticism of the Fiskars hatchets/axes I've seen is that wood can get jammed between the head and the plastic "loop" so to speak, holding the head on. Have you experienced this at all? Would you say this is a design issue or operator issue? Thanks.
    I've not seen exactly what you are talking about but the sides can get abraded pretty well on the original versions. this was the reason for the new design of the X models... the head is forged with a slight raised portion that deflects wood away from the handle attachment area. this also makes them superior splitters.

    for what it is - price vs performance - these Fiskars are in a separate league. I have my fancy Swedish knives and axes but that is really just for the soul, not that they cut better. some people will say that they saw pics of some guy in the arctic shatter the handle when he ran over it with his half track or some shit. well ok, I say get another one, they're cheap enough...

    as for operator issues, I've had them all... swinging a sharp weighted tool is not something to do haphazardly or even if the slightest bit tired or distracted. I respect axes more than chainsaws and I'm quite a bit paranoid around them. you need all your skill and concentration with either of these and catastrophic accidents can still happen. stay safe...
    never push a wrench...

  8. #98
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    1) Benchmade 530BK (is my EDC, would ditch for my Leatherman Wave, carried in vehicle, in a survival/backpacking situation)

    2) Benchmade Bushcrafter (my favorite new knife, sheath carries a Light My Fire Original Swedish FireSteel Army size); carried in backpack.

    3) Estwing Hatchet (Paracord wrapped handle), carried in vehicle.*

    My Gramps got this at a garage sale for $1; I sand-blasted it and under coated it, then had it professionally sharpened for $8. I was pretty happy with that score.
    Praise be to the LORD my Rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. Psalm 144:1

    Owner of MI-TAC, LLC .

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  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave L. View Post
    1) Benchmade 530BK (is my EDC, would ditch for my Leatherman Wave, carried in vehicle, in a survival/backpacking situation)

    2) Benchmade Bushcrafter (my favorite new knife, sheath carries a Light My Fire Original Swedish FireSteel Army size); carried in backpack.

    3) Estwing Hatchet (Paracord wrapped handle), carried in vehicle.*

    My Gramps got this at a garage sale for $1; I sand-blasted it and under coated it, then had it professionally sharpened for $8. I was pretty happy with that score.
    that suits me just fine...
    never push a wrench...

  10. #100
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    1. Fiskar Axe or ESEE Junglas
    2. ESEE 4/5/6
    3. Small stainless steel knife, possibly a folder- maybe some kind of Spyderco, a steel like VG10 would be nice because it is pretty easy to sharpen. Alternative is an ESEE Izula.

    I had wanted to get a Blind Horse Knives knife but they split up before I could. I might get one of the Battle Horse Knives knives sometime though and that could replace the ESEE 4/5/6 in my line up. I am also a big fan of the ESEE Izula. I used to have a Junglas but got rid of it- a nice big knife that I would not mind owning again.

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