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Thread: Would a Daniel Defense Omega X handguard stand up to being cut here?

  1. #11
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    I guess I meant why that particular spot?
    my 9.5fsp lite rail ends forward of that and i use a 10.5" barrel.

    What barrel are you going to be using that there would be the "proper" length for the hanguard?

    Chris

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CCK View Post
    I guess I meant why that particular spot?
    my 9.5fsp lite rail ends forward of that and i use a 10.5" barrel.

    What barrel are you going to be using that there would be the "proper" length for the hanguard?

    Chris
    Further forward would leave an odd notch as the front with the bayonet lug cutout.

  3. #13
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    I cant see any problems occuring. The C4 rails only have one screw that far forward, and they are very GTG.
    For some reason, I think you might be doing something with a switchblock. Probably wrong though.
    Brandon
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Further forward would leave an odd notch as the front with the bayonet lug cutout.
    I was wrong.
    "Blessed be the Lord my strength, which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight."
    -Psalm 144:1
    "Our houses are protected by the good Lord, and a gun; you might need 'em both, if you show up here not welcome, son."
    -Josh Thompson

  5. #15
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    surf, care to post a pic of your modded rail on an SBR upper?
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  6. #16
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    i cut a inch off the end of mine, no problems at all
    Bryan
    Aim

  7. #17
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    I had a hard drive issue so I will have to take new pics of one of the rifles that I did.

    I make the cuts shown below in red. I like to run the rail just past the front of the FSB. The lug cutout looks like there is not much material near the front and I always knew that I could trim it back if necessary, but it has not been an issue in any of the rifles that I have done so far and the extra rail space covering the FSB is a plus.


  8. #18
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    .

    FWIW
    Just a suggestion Rob, and you may know this already, if I was going to make the cut, I would use a Miter saw with a good sharp carbide blade. I'd separate the halves and cut them separately. The Miter saw will make short work out of it and make a perfect cut.
    Might even be neat to cut it at a slight angle to have more handguard on the bottom than the top.

    If you've never cut aluminum, wear long sleeves, tuck your gloves under the sleeves, (those metal shavings are HOT), hold the piece well, and just cut slow and steady. Nuttin' tuit...

    But maybe it's just me...

    .

  9. #19
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    Bandsaw will work too, with a metal cutting blade.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ucrt View Post
    .

    FWIW
    Just a suggestion Rob, and you may know this already, if I was going to make the cut, I would use a Miter saw with a good sharp carbide blade. I'd separate the halves and cut them separately. The Miter saw will make short work out of it and make a perfect cut.
    Might even be neat to cut it at a slight angle to have more handguard on the bottom than the top.

    If you've never cut aluminum, wear long sleeves, tuck your gloves under the sleeves, (those metal shavings are HOT), hold the piece well, and just cut slow and steady. Nuttin' tuit...

    But maybe it's just me...

    .
    I agree, I never have personally cut aluminum, but when a buddy of mine was working I walked into the shop to pick him up and got smacked by a tiny piece in my hand, it actually SANK into my hand it was so hot. Needless to say, I stand way back and wait before approaching anyone doing that now.

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