pictures of the burnishing caused by LT mounts

[jmart]

Now we're gettin' somewhere......

[Boom]

Wait let me get the popcorn....

[Robb Jensen]

Here's some more pics.

This is my wifes (9x19) 3gun rifle. The upper is finished in OD green GunKote, the mount is a LaRue SPR 1.5 1" with a Weaver 1-3x scope.

The mount rubbed off the green finish but not the anodizing.






This is my LMT 10" SBR with KAC RASII rail I use an Aimpoint T1 on a LaRue mount out on top of the rail.

[Mark LaRue]

I will tell you how I install a LT mount. I first get the lever about finger tight (meaning my fingers turn color as I am having to apply enough pressure to open or close the lever). Once the levers are closed, I grab the mount and do a "push/pull" to see if it moves. If it does move, I tighten down the lever some more until their is no more shift. After it stops moving, I open and close the lever about 10 times to "seat it" into the rail. I then do another push/pull to check for movement and adjust the lever accordingly.
I have noticed that on mounts that get taken on an off a lot, I have to re-tighten the lever as it creates a deeper and deeper "pocket" that the lever sits in.

The reason I am telling you all this is because I believe that in order to get a LT lever to PROPERLY repeat and retain zero, you have to create a "pocket" for the lever to sit in. If this bothers you and or you view this as damaging the rail, then I would suggest that you do not buy a LT mount.
C4

Grant, I beg to differ with you on why our LT mounts work. They repeat and retain zero because LT levers exert the same torque upon the mount-to-rail each and every time they are mounted. No magic, it's that simple.

Additionally, in regards to the "smudges", we once measured the "smudge" depths during multiple on/off testing, and those marks you see in the pics are ~0.0006" top to bottom. Please note that 0.0010" is a thousandth of an inch. A hair is ~0.0030" in diameter.

A side effect of our infinitely adjustable lever system is a fine feel for what's going on. The shooter has the tool to allow him to detect the most minute changes. There was nothing that allowed one to adjust to this fine a level before, and we stand alone. The state-of-the-art when we were first tasked with the requirement went from "give it hell tight" to just "flopping around". Differences in torque exerted define the repeatability.

As to properly adjusting LT mounts, here's the instructions we send out ... I like the angle to be 45 degrees, Bennie Cooley insists that the angle be 60 degrees, so somewhere between 45 and 60, YMMV.



P.S. The note regarding the locknuts is there because it has been my lifelong experience that locknuts don't fair well with reuse. Don't take them off. The device has enough travel designed-in to accomodate any picatinny size one might encounter. Additionally, there is nothing to service in there...and you run the risk of losing stuff and having to call us, etc. 1 turn equals .032", 1/4 turn equals .008", 1/8 turn equals .004". Ultra-fine adjustment made easy.

ML

ETA - 3/8" wrenches are as common as a screwdriver, we provide a free one as a one-time convenience, so the buyer does not have to hunt for a thing when our stuff first arrives. And if someone decides sometime down the road to move the optic to another weapon, every multi-tool has a needle nose built-in and will more than suffice for the slight adjustment that might be required to properly fit the new weapon.

[Mark LaRue]

Which scuff mark were we talking about ??

[usmcgrunt]

Which scuff mark were we talking about ??

Classic! Started reading this post and didnt really know what to say! Instructions are included on how to mount and use the adjustments properly! IF you dont really like the fact that the mounts cause damage then use another product, its like anything else dont like it dont use it! Just my .02 cents!

Grunt Out!

[Robb Jensen]

That's right. Guns are meant to be shot. Finish imperfections, wear and other stuff happens. LaRue mounts work fine despite the hate of their products from some people.
If you want Museum pieces buy a Museum.
Shoot it now, you can't take it with you when you die!

Robb

[C4IGrant]

Grant, I beg to differ with you on why our LT mounts work. They repeat and retain zero because LT levers exert the same torque upon the mount-to-rail each and every time they are mounted. No magic, it's that simple.

Additionally, in regards to the "smudges", we once measured the "smudge" depths during multiple on/off testing, and those marks you see in the pics are ~0.0006" top to bottom. Please note that 0.0010" is a thousandth of an inch. A hair is ~0.0030" in diameter.

A side effect of our infinitely adjustable lever system is a fine feel for what's going on. The shooter has the tool to allow him to detect the most minute changes. There was nothing that allowed one to adjust to this fine a level before, and we stand alone. The state-of-the-art when we were first tasked with the requirement went from "give it hell tight" to just "flopping around". Differences in torque exerted define the repeatability.

As to properly adjusting LT mounts, here's the instructions we send out ... I like the angle to be 45 degrees, Bennie Cooley insists that the angle be 60 degrees, so somewhere between 45 and 60, YMMV.



P.S. The note regarding the locknuts is there because it has been my lifelong experience that locknuts don't fair well with reuse. Don't take them off. The device has enough travel designed-in to accomodate any picatinny size one might encounter. Additionally, there is nothing to service in there...and you run the risk of losing stuff and having to call us, etc. 1 turn equals .032", 1/4 turn equals .008", 1/8 turn equals .004". Ultra-fine adjustment made easy.

ML

ETA - 3/8" wrenches are as common as a screwdriver, we provide a free one as a one-time convenience, so the buyer does not have to hunt for a thing when our stuff first arrives. And if someone decides sometime down the road to move the optic to another weapon, every multi-tool has a needle nose built-in and will more than suffice for the slight adjustment that might be required to properly fit the new weapon.

Well I think I have been using your levers for ALMOST as long as you have and I think I now how they work for ME. How I do it works and apparently how I do it is how others do it well. If you don't like how I adjust your levers, then don't do it the way I do.

The depth in which the lever imbeds into the rail seems to differ depending on who made the rail. As we know, the anodizing hardness that some companies use VS another varies greatly. The less hard the anodizing is, the deeper the pocket is created. So yes, the depth will vary quite a bit IMHO.



C4

[Mark LaRue]

How I do it works and apparently how I do it is how others do it well. If you don't like how I adjust your levers, then don't do it the way I do.
C4

G-Man,

Your assumptions are incorrect. The bottom line is, in order for you to get the mount to stop forward-aft movement, you are doing nothing more than adjusting the levers until they are 45 degrees or more.

But you go ahead and think whatever it is you need to think.

M. LaRue

[C4IGrant]

G-Man,

Your assumptions are incorrect. The bottom line is, in order for you to get the mount to stop forward-aft movement, you are doing nothing more than adjusting the levers until they are 45 degrees or more.

But you go ahead and think whatever it is you need to think.

M. LaRue

Yes I fully understand that. While you are creating the "45 degrees" you are ALSO creating a pocket (even if it is ever so small). I have the indents in all of my rails to prove it.

I will continue to think whateve I want.


C4