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Thread: Post your SCAR tips, tweaks, tricks, and odd bits here

  1. #11
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    I had to slightly modify my lancers because the bolt release was rubbing on the side of the magazines. The tip of my release barely touches the followers on lancers also and I'm afraid it will start to slip as the plastic is worn away. Check your rifles and lancer mags to make sure this is not happening. From now on I will only use USGI mags but I will try the new generation pmags when they come out.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuietShootr View Post
    7) Scope mounts such as LaRue or ADM need to be reversed so that the throw levers are on the opposite side from the side you are running the charging handle on. Unless you enjoy constant skinned knuckles, that is.
    Related to this, if you have a Bobro mount and are running the charging handle on the left side, you don't need to reverse the full mount. You can detach the base of the mount and flip that around instead, so that the weight of your optic is still kept towards the middle of the rifle instead of being moved forward by reversing the entire mount.

  3. #13
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    I hated the front sight assy so i put on the promoted pawn front sight rail and was using daniel defense front
    I did the same. However, I installed the DD front sight on the top rail and then used the promoted pawn rail to attach an offset light mount (ala' AK + Ultimak) and this allowed me to not crowd the light so much. The standard FS, with its hood, took up far too much of a RDS window when deployed (I am one of those, 'sights up' people). DD sight was a good improvement.

    I like the Tango Down CH but unlike many, chose to run it down rather than up on the left hand side after monkeying around with it at the range. Some found angling it down meant that their knuckles dragged on the barrel attachment point but I found angling it up meant scraping my knuckles on my optic mount (it's a reversed LaRue mount; same way I'd been running it since about day 1).

    The Tango Down buttstock latch I'm so-so about. The stock can't be, 'snapped' open in the same manner and I also worry about which part will break first, the button or the latch (before, this was a non-issue because the button was the obvious answer).

    Using a belt sander to take down the nubbin' on the A2 grip makes a world of difference and doesn't involve either a) buying a SCAR-specific grip nor b) modifying the receiver. TD makes my favorite grip but after taking off the nubbin' the grip is close enough that I didn't bother with either step.

    Not all mags will work. Well, all in-spec mags will work but some of the others, like PMags, require some minor modification in order to not damage the rifle. There's a video about this someplace but it's just a dremel to the back, 'U' on the PMag to fix it.

    A simple slingshot to the CH makes for an easy bolt release during a reload but many AR guys will just stick to a slap or a thumb on the bolt release. On the SCAR I quite like smacking the CH instead of hitting the release. YMMV.
    Dave Merrill
    Terrible Technical Writer. Awful Photographer. Lazy Instructor. Kind of a dick.
    Loves Tacos.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Fineis View Post
    12: The battery storage compartment in the stock makes a perfect mounting location for a flush fit Q/D cup. I use this one from Noveske:

    http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin...status=&title=
    Would love to see pics of this and how you went about it, if you get a chance.
    I have far more guns than I realistically need, but far less than I want. - NongShim

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronFitz View Post
    Would love to see pics of this and how you went about it, if you get a chance.
    Agree. I've seen a few related threads on FNF, including this one, but it would be good to consolidate as much of this kind of learning as we can here.

    AC

  6. #16
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    Thats it, Chief.

    He's the only one( and the first)I know of running that set up on FNF. Could that be Tom? I guess he can come out and tell us!

    On the topic, the more you shoot it, the better trigger gets( ain't that true with most, if not all, guns?). I noticed it as early as around 60 rounds down the pipe.

    Awesome post and idea, BTW.

  7. #17
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    Pardon the cell phone pics. Installing the Q/D socket couldn't be easier:

    - Drill a 1/2" hole in the stock
    - Degrease both components of the Q/D socket
    - Place square nut backer inside the stock
    - Apply permanent thread locker to the threads of the socket
    - Snap a male Q/D sling swivel into the socket
    - Thread socket into nut tightly. Let the thread locker cure.



    The opinions posted above are my own and do not represent any current or former employer.

  8. #18
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    Tom, I think you just saved me a nice chunk of change. I was going to have to get the Vltor offering with the QD socket, but this coupled with the tip on how to eliminate rattle should get me squared away. Thanks!
    I have far more guns than I realistically need, but far less than I want. - NongShim

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuietShootr View Post


    5) The H magazine floorplates will slide off. Best cure is to get 7.62 Magpuls and a hair dryer, and put them on sideways (loop running fore and aft). No more problems, plus your $40 magazines aren't crashing into the deck completely unprotected. (If you aren't dropping your magazines because they're $40, you're a fag.)

    6) All M4 grips can be made to fit the SCAR. You simply sand about 1/16 off the bottom of the grip tang. Don't panic. A stripped lower is $45 from FN if you think you ****ed it up, but if you're too dumb to do this you probably shouldn't be trusted with any power tools at all. ALSO: Do NOT gorilla-torque the pistol grip screw down. You WILL crack the grip tang. The technical manual calls for UNDER 20 in-lbs, so if you need to (or are worried about it) put a TINY dab of blue Loctite on the screw before you install it. Without a torque wrench, just finger-tighten it, then snug it a quarter-turn past where it stops while just turning it lightly with your fingertips. That's it.

    5) If you need an immediate fix, duct tape also works.

    6) use the original grip screw, not whatever came with the grip.

    That's my two cents.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyohte View Post
    5) If you need an immediate fix, duct tape also works.

    6) use the original grip screw, not whatever came with the grip.

    That's my two cents.
    The screw is not the problem.

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