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Thread: Trouble zeroing with irons only.

  1. #41
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    A bent paper clip or small diameter chunk of clothes hanger wire and a couple inches of the eraser end of a #2 pencil with the eraser worn or cut off flush with the ferrule or near to it.

    Stab sight post into eraser, hold down detent with wire, turn pencil.

  2. #42
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    If you can't adjust your FSP with a simple punch, bullet tip (maybe, see JSs post), or knife edge... Remove it, clean it, and reinstall it. Periodically thereafter, put a drop of oil in the channel to prevent corrosion and blow it out once in awhile.

    For adjustment, remember this simple rule: Rear moves the direction you want the rounds to go, front moves the opposite.
    Last edited by ST911; 04-23-12 at 12:10.
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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSantoro View Post
    Short of photos to the contrary, that's unlikely; if you've scraped off finish, that's just cosmetic.

    Even the type-specific tools can be tricky to FIT so that they rotate that thing correctly...I have one Troy BUIS that won't take any of the tools, period...

    A bullet-tip will work, IF the tip is sharp enough to begin with, but only barely, and only until the tip of a single bullet is chewed up. It's an if-nothing-else method.

    May be worth putting a small drop of lube on that pin, and it'll get easier after some time getting used to the whole push-then-rotate thing.
    Below is a photo I just now took. The gun is brand new, and I did take a closeup photo of the front sight before I ever shot it, but unless someone wants to see it for comparison, I figure it’s probably better not to clutter someone else’s thread with a bunch of my photos.

    I have heard that the tools don’t fit Troy sights, but mine is all stock 6920 and still under 200 rounds.

    First thing I tried was a bullet tip. We ended up using a ball point pen to push the pin down, and a knife to rotate the plate, and the knife wasn’t working too well. After I got home, I tried a couple of allen wrenches. One to push the pin down and get the plate started, and a smaller one I could stick in one of the slots to rotate it. That method seemed to work, so I put the wrenches in my gun bag. I thought about oil, but the pin pushes down freely and easy. The trick is to stay on the pin and not slip off.

    The material the plate is made of feels real soft. The bottom slot in the photo looks a little chewed up.

    Gary
    Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo

    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTifosi View Post
    A bent paper clip or small diameter chunk of clothes hanger wire and a couple inches of the eraser end of a #2 pencil with the eraser worn or cut off flush with the ferrule or near to it.

    Stab sight post into eraser, hold down detent with wire, turn pencil.
    You know, the ideal tool would be a wrench that would fit over the square post that you could turn while you hold the pin down with what ever works best. Your idea sounds like it could work tho. Have you tried it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Skintop911 View Post
    If you can't adjust your FSP with a simple punch, bullet tip (maybe, see JSs post), or knife edge... Remove it, clean it, and reinstall it. Periodically thereafter, put a drop of oil in the channel to prevent corrosion and blow it out once in awhile.
    The gun is brand new with only two trips to the range, so it shouldn’t need any cleaning. Once I get it sighted in, I might put a couple of drops of oil or spray a little Break Free or Ballistol in there as a rust prevention.
    Gary
    Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo

    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    Your idea sounds like it could work tho. Have you tried it?
    More times than you can imagine.
    Works best w/A2 square posts, but can do A1 round posts if not too tight in the threads.

    Bend wire into kind of an S shape with a little hook on top and big on bottom.
    Big end is for your finger to get in and the other to hold detent.

  6. #46
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    I always use the small allen wrenches as you've discovered. It's not something you adjust a lot. Zero it and drive on.
    Semper Paratus Certified AR15 Armorer

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTifosi View Post
    More times than you can imagine.
    Works best w/A2 square posts, but can do A1 round posts if not too tight in the threads.

    Bend wire into kind of an S shape with a little hook on top and big on bottom.
    Big end is for your finger to get in and the other to hold detent.
    I have the A2 type square post. The eraser should grab hold just fine. I might try it, but I think the Allen wrenches will work for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by ASH556 View Post
    I always use the small allen wrenches as you've discovered. It's not something you adjust a lot. Zero it and drive on.
    Yes. Once I get it zeroed, I’ll probably never touch it again. Like the OP, I’m not even getting groups with it, so I’m going to move in from 50 yards to 25 yards and zero it there. Once I start getting groups in the bull, I’ll move back to 50 yards and re-zero it. 95% of my shooting is at 50 yards, and it’s rare that I ever get to a place where I can stretch it out to 100 yards, but a 50 yard zero should get me close enough so that minor aim adjustment at 100 yards should get me there.

    As I’ve said, I’ve never had so much trouble with a new gun before. I have a Mini-14 that I can knock off chili cans at 100 yards, and I’ve never touched the sights.
    Last edited by wingspar; 04-23-12 at 15:52.
    Gary
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    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    I have the A2 type square post. The eraser should grab hold just fine. I might try it, but I think the Allen wrenches will work for me.



    Yes. Once I get it zeroed, I’ll probably never touch it again. Like the OP, I’m not even getting groups with it, so I’m going to move in from 50 yards to 25 yards and zero it there. Once I start getting groups in the bull, I’ll move back to 50 yards and re-zero it. 95% of my shooting is at 50 yards, and it’s rare that I ever get to a place where I can stretch it out to 100 yards, but a 50 yard zero should get me close enough so that minor aim adjustment at 100 yards should get me there.

    As I’ve said, I’ve never had so much trouble with a new gun before. I have a Mini-14 that I can knock off chili cans at 100 yards, and I’ve never touched the sights.
    In regards to not getting groups, check my post earlier in the thread and see if that helps you any.
    Semper Paratus Certified AR15 Armorer

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    I got back to the range yesterday and took a friend who had never shot an AR before. Since I had someone with me, I was mostly distracted, and forgot I had put a bunch of reading material on adjusting the front sight in my log book. First off, I thought the arrow on the FSP meant the direction to turn the sight to bring the post up, so I turned the post counter clockwise. It was bright and sunny and very difficult to see what we were doing. Bullet tip did not work. Took both of us to hold the rifle and a pen to hold the button down, and a knife to turn the sight, and it was extremely difficult to do. After discovering we adjusted the sight the wrong way, I got it back down to where we started, and a bit below, but still no joy. I had to give up. Put it away and got some other guns out so we could have some fun. There has to be an easier way to adjust the front sight. Today I spent a lot of time reading and searching on the subject figuring there had to be a tool for adjusting the front sight. Found one and ordered one. I’m now wondering if I haven’t buggered up the front sight with the knife so much that the tool I ordered might not work. I’ve never had this kind of trouble with the sights on a new gun.
    Dude, I quite literally addressed every issue you brough up in my first post in this thread on page 1:

    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Turning the sight counter-clockwise will raise the front sight post, resulting in shots going lower than initially. Commonly, the front sight will be marked "UP" with an arrow pointing to the left. Turning the sight clockwise (toward the arrow) will result in the srtike of the round rising, as the front sight is being driven deeper into the front sight base (making it shorter).

    Adjustments can be made with pretty much any tool that will depress the plunger. I have used everything from bullet tips to purpose built front sight adjustment tools. I really prefer the tool. If you have never adjusted your front sight, drip a little lubricant into the front sight detent area, as many come from the factory quite stiff and adjustment resistant.
    Jack Leuba
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    Knight's Armament Company
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  10. #50
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    Yeah, Ive shot the PMC bronze line a couple times myself, Plenty accurate for getting a good zero with your irons.

    Seems like the OP was thinking its his fundamentals, & was going to attend a basic class.
    Would like to see some updates after to see if he resolved this.

    To wingsparr, its my personal preference but I like using a 100 yard zero, keeps it very flat out to about 200 yards. It doesnt go above the line of sight and then come back down on the line of sight like some zeros.
    It reaches the line of sight at 100 yards, maybe just above, not by much, before going a little farther then dropping back down. So you have a projectile that is not going to be below -2.5 or so out to 100 yards, then it doesn't drop below -2.5 inches or so out to 200 yards, give or take.
    So its a very flat zero. And 200 yards is out past most ordinary engagement ranges, especially for defense purposes. If your in a personal defense situation as a civilian, & you have a threat out past 200 yards, maybe you should turn and go the other way, unless there is no other choice for some horseshit reason. Then you have to prove why you had to shoot someone to protect yourself at that range... But thats a whole other topic....
    And in any case, 100 yard zero is also range friendly, alot of ranges can accommodate that. A lot of ranges cant accommodate say, a 300 meter zero.
    Like i said... preferences....
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