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Thread: Trouble zeroing with irons only.

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Dude, I quite literally addressed every issue you brough up in my first post in this thread on page 1:
    Yes, and that info is also in the manual, which I had printed the pertinent info and had with me, but circumstances caused me to forget I had it with me, and the up arrow seemed to indicate the direction to move the post up, not move the shots up. It’s probably a common mistake. Sometimes, I just learn better by screwing up rather than reading. It’s a mistake I’ll Never make again. It looks like I’ll get out to the range today and I expect to come home a happy camper.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ghostmaker View Post
    Seems like the OP was thinking its his fundamentals, & was going to attend a basic class.
    Would like to see some updates after to see if he resolved this.

    To wingsparr, its my personal preference but I like using a 100 yard zero, keeps it very flat out to about 200 yards.
    The OP is scheduled for a class later on this month. He will probably update after he has taken the class.

    As for me, I’m moving into 25 yards to zero the gun. If I don’t, I feel I’ll be chasing zero forever. Once I get it zeroed there, I’ll move it out to 50 yards where I plan to keep it.
    Gary
    Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo

    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    The OP is scheduled for a class later on this month. He will probably update after he has taken the class.

    As for me, I’m moving into 25 yards to zero the gun. If I don’t, I feel I’ll be chasing zero forever. Once I get it zeroed there, I’ll move it out to 50 yards where I plan to keep it.
    Yeah movin it in close till you get a "rough" zero is best for you. Good luck man.

    With my 100 yard zero, I'm about .5" or 3 quarters of a inch low at 50 yards.... not enough to matter, especially when it comes to combat accurate hits.

    Will your range let you confirm long range zero after you get it set at 50?
    Instructor-Basic, Intermediate & Advanced Combative Techniques for Carbine & Pistol

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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghostmaker View Post
    Yeah movin it in close till you get a "rough" zero is best for you. Good luck man.

    With my 100 yard zero, I'm about .5" or 3 quarters of a inch low at 50 yards.... not enough to matter, especially when it comes to combat accurate hits.

    Will your range let you confirm long range zero after you get it set at 50?
    Set up at 25 yards today, and it only took about 6 rounds to get it pretty well zeroed, at least for me. Got on the target as good as I’m going to and moved back out to 50 yards where I moved the front sight one notch, and windage 4 clicks, and I’m happy. I’ve never been a tight group shooter with iron sights, but I’m happy at where I’m at now. I was able to pick off a small ½ pound container of Tannerite at 50 yards with no problem. It was really windy, but I’m not sure wind would have much of an effect over a .223 at 50 yards. I am starting to wonder if there is anything I can do to improve the trigger pull and break. It’s a little on the gritty side.

    Adjusting that front sight post gets more difficult the more you lower the post. A real struggle, but I’m finally there.

    The place I shoot at is in the woods at the end of a dead end road one has to know about. Been using it for years. 50 yards is as far out as I can get. If I want to stretch it out to 100 yards, I have to drive another 30 minutes to a rock pit, so I will stretch it out to 100 yards when I get up to the pit.
    Gary
    Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo

    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    Set up at 25 yards today, and it only took about 6 rounds to get it pretty well zeroed, at least for me. Got on the target as good as I’m going to and moved back out to 50 yards where I moved the front sight one notch, and windage 4 clicks, and I’m happy. I’ve never been a tight group shooter with iron sights, but I’m happy at where I’m at now. I was able to pick off a small ½ pound container of Tannerite at 50 yards with no problem. It was really windy, but I’m not sure wind would have much of an effect over a .223 at 50 yards. I am starting to wonder if there is anything I can do to improve the trigger pull and break. It’s a little on the gritty side.

    Adjusting that front sight post gets more difficult the more you lower the post. A real struggle, but I’m finally there.

    The place I shoot at is in the woods at the end of a dead end road one has to know about. Been using it for years. 50 yards is as far out as I can get. If I want to stretch it out to 100 yards, I have to drive another 30 minutes to a rock pit, so I will stretch it out to 100 yards when I get up to the pit.
    Glad to hear it.
    Have you taken the trigger components out & cleaned them? Make sure you don't have grit & fouling in there.
    Besides buying a drop in trigger group & what not, there are some minor touch ups you can do with a dremel tool, smoothing some contact & release surfaces out more & such. But when you get into doing that, you have to be extra careful & get some knowledge on what heads to use, & how to do it.
    What Lube are you using? I've been using Frog Lube for a while now, best stuff I've tried... Makes things run pretty smooth, even with a mil-spec trigger group.
    The first treatment I did with my trigger group in my KAC is clean it with carbon remover, degrease it with 91% rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol, or something of the sort. Heat the parts up with a hair dryer, brush on some frog lube, especially on the contact & release surfaces & springs & such. Let it cool down, wipe it off, apply the FL on the usual lubrication points, re-install & your good to go...

    If your going to use a long range zero such as 200m,y, 300m/y, its better to be able to shoot the actual distance to confirm the zero...
    Sighted in at 100 yards, My impacts are about
    -1.5,-1.7" at 25y, -.7 to -1" at 50y, -.2,-.3" at 75y, 0.0" at 100y, -.3" at 150y, -1.8 at 200y...it stays between 0.0 & -1.8 to -2.0 out to 200 yards starting at 25... closer than that you start getting into height over bore effect as with all zeros. So its really Flat. I've been pretty accurate out to 250-280 yards with a aimpoint & irons.

    If i was going to use a different zero, it would be a 50y zero, its a great zero, it shoots pretty flat too, & one of my rigs utilizes it.

    Looking forward to hear how it goes.
    Instructor-Basic, Intermediate & Advanced Combative Techniques for Carbine & Pistol

    "Responsibility for your Protection & Superiority in Combat starts here... at Lakeview Combative Training."-Ghostmaker

    "FROG LUBE doubles as my TOOTH PASTE."-Ghostmaker

    "Be Professional at making Ghosts." -Ghostmaker

  5. #55
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    At this point, I won’t even entertain the thought of removing the trigger components. It’s just not something I think I should try. Later on when I learn more, I might be tempted. I’m dangerous with Dremel. Not going there. If there is something I can do with a fine stone with some good instructions, I’d be tempted.

    As for Frog Lube. I’ve seen so many threads on it and I have never read a single one, but decided to do some research on FL today. Looks interesting. Might try some. This is a factory new 6920, and all I’ve done is put a couple of drops of oil in the trigger group that the manual showed. I used what I had. Hoppe’s 9 Oil. As for the BCG, I used TW-25B on the rails as I have lots of that on hand. Bought a large quantity of it a couple of years ago, so where ever the manual called for oil, I used the Hoppe’s 9 and where ever the manual called for grease, I used TW-25B.

    From the reading I did, Frog Lube properties sounds similar to Ballistol, but nicer smelling.
    Gary
    Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo

    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    At this point, I won’t even entertain the thought of removing the trigger components. It’s just not something I think I should try. Later on when I learn more, I might be tempted. I’m dangerous with Dremel. Not going there. If there is something I can do with a fine stone with some good instructions, I’d be tempted.
    Later on when you learn more, a voice should be screaming in your head saying, "Leave the friggin trigger alone!"

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 AE View Post
    Later on when you learn more, a voice should be screaming in your head saying, "Leave the friggin trigger alone!"
    Probably, no truer words spoken.

    Some time ago, I bought a new trigger for my CCW handgun. Came with excellent instructions and many saying how simple it is to install. Still haven’t done it, and I think I’ll have a gunsmith do it.
    Gary
    Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo

    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  8. #58
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    Have you checked to see if you have this problem? https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=104141

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    Adjusting that front sight post gets more difficult the more you lower the post.
    You can pull the post and chase the threads with a 8-36 UNF tap. I prefer a plug tap but any will work.

    On that note, and adjusting the front sight post; it's just a screw. If you tighten it the post moves down, it come up if you loosen it. As Skintop said, the rear sight moves the same as bullet impact, the front sight is the opposite.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 AE View Post
    Later on when you learn more, a voice should be screaming in your head saying, "Leave the friggin trigger alone!"
    Quote Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
    Probably, no truer words spoken.

    Some time ago, I bought a new trigger for my CCW handgun. Came with excellent instructions and many saying how simple it is to install. Still haven’t done it, and I think I’ll have a gunsmith do it.
    Well when it comes to the trigger components its a "regular" thing to do to take them out and clean them from time to time, its actually really simple, not to mention if your going to keep a carbine for defense purposes, you need to know how to do those little things in my mind, there is probably a hundred videos on youtube(guessing), showing you how to take out the trigger group, clean & re-install. Once you do it a couple times, you'll see its not a big deal.

    When talking about actually working on it, like smoothing some surfaces, as I stated, it can be a dangerous thing to get into and I wouldn't recommend it for most.
    Most all trigger groups are not going to be that bad that its a must... & Ive never seen a Colt that needed it. If its feeling that gritty, theres gotta be some crap in there that you can clean out.
    I'm to the point now, in my experience & career, that I really don't give a horseshit what king of trigger a rig has, Mil-spec, or two stage match trigger or what not, I run the gun, the gun doesn't run me.
    I'm still picky about my pistol triggers though, I like them a certain way...especially on the 1911 platforms. Has nothing to do with actually performance & accuracy, mostlly just the "feel".
    Instructor-Basic, Intermediate & Advanced Combative Techniques for Carbine & Pistol

    "Responsibility for your Protection & Superiority in Combat starts here... at Lakeview Combative Training."-Ghostmaker

    "FROG LUBE doubles as my TOOTH PASTE."-Ghostmaker

    "Be Professional at making Ghosts." -Ghostmaker

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