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I picked up a Dremel at Wal-Mart for like $30 or so to cut my delta ring off. It came with accessories for all kind of other useful shit. I can use it to polish feed ramps if the need ever be, cut shit, sand shit, make shit shine.... you name it!
I pretty much figured for $30'ish and all the uses I can get out of a Dremel it'd be better than having to mess with the barrel and barrel nut torque, etc. Also, delta rings are cheap enough to replace at $5 - $10 so I wouldn't sweat cutting the lil' bastard off.
Last edited by djmorris; 04-27-12 at 11:59.
So I wouldn't need a nut wrench then, and the vice block isn't really needed just to get the flash hider and gas block off.
Shoot I built a complete flattop upper, M4 clone barrel, gas tube, and a round free float tube including the bolt and carrier group for $300. Barrel was new blem, used bolt/carrier group and new receiver. Just look around for parts. Find a good price and buy it then wait until you have everything. At least it worked for me.
Yes you will need a barrel wrench (with the prongs) to install the free float tube barrel nut. I just cut two pieces of furniture grade plywood to place between the top of my receiver and the bottom (between the lugs) and lightly clamped it into my vise to tightenthe nut. Worked like a champ. Do not over tighten the vice, just enough to hold the receiver as you turn the nut.
Last edited by Q2arrowhunter; 04-27-12 at 13:30.
If you plan on buying/working on more ARs in the future, it would not hurt to invest in a barrel nut wrench and clamshell-style upper receiver vise block.
To (properly) remove the flash hider, you should have a set of barrel vise blocks:
The vice block isn't needed to remove the front sight post/gas block. You do need a front sight post bench block to remove the front sight (at least to do so without loosing your sanity and/or breaking fingers). Link to the block I'm talking about: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...HT-BENCH-BLOCK
And if you're gonna buy that, then you should get this also (punch for front sight pins, makes it easier to keep punch on the pins): http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...ER-PIN-STARTER
To properly remove the flash hider, you should have barrel vise blocks: (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...RREL-VISE-JAWS), but plenty of folks use the regular upper receiver vise block. Just be careful with how much force you apply.
Long story short: To do it right will cost some money, there is usually nothing "cheap" about doing it right.
Last edited by SteadyUp; 04-27-12 at 17:17.
All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.
-Thomas Jefferson
I managed over the weekend to remove the FSB pins (right-to-left on this M&P/Stag, as Good Robb advised) but only after some WD-40 followed by heat. Man were they tight! Nearly did cost my sanity.
I was profoundly unable, however, to get the slightest budge out of the flash hider. Some major torque is going to be needed, possibly beyond the safe-limit of the reciever block, so looks like the barrel block will be needed instead.
Having a barrel block though, won't that also let me loosen the barrel nut, without having to use use a receiver block?
I'm planning to order all this stuff this morning, so need to complete the list ASAP.
Last edited by blackscot; 04-30-12 at 08:29.
Last edited by blackscot; 04-30-12 at 08:18.
Using a receiver block is the correct way to remove the barrel nut. You're better off spending $40 for the receiver block, then winging it with the barrel block. Different tasks require different tools to be done correctly. And you could always sell the receiver or barrel block on the equipment exchange here.
All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.
-Thomas Jefferson
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