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Thread: Considering a Barrel Swap and Free-Float Install

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteadyUp View Post
    If you cut the delta ring off with a dremel, you don't need to remove the barrel nut. Otherwise you do.
    Thanks. I've seen some web posts and youtubes on cutting it off. I don't own a Dremel (I know -- sacrilege), but I wonder if getting a receiver vice block and barrel-nut wrench would be any cheaper.

  2. #22
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    I picked up a Dremel at Wal-Mart for like $30 or so to cut my delta ring off. It came with accessories for all kind of other useful shit. I can use it to polish feed ramps if the need ever be, cut shit, sand shit, make shit shine.... you name it!

    I pretty much figured for $30'ish and all the uses I can get out of a Dremel it'd be better than having to mess with the barrel and barrel nut torque, etc. Also, delta rings are cheap enough to replace at $5 - $10 so I wouldn't sweat cutting the lil' bastard off.
    Last edited by djmorris; 04-27-12 at 11:59.

  3. #23
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    So I wouldn't need a nut wrench then, and the vice block isn't really needed just to get the flash hider and gas block off.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    Thanks for your perspective. I've pretty much decided to hold off on the barrel, and I'll definitely just be chopping the FS. I'll need to decide whether it is worth the extra $ to me to have the full-length top rail -- it will need to hold an X300 as well as a flip-up FS.

    Unrelatedly, entire replacement uppers seem to be well over $1K, whereas Brownells is listing DD lighweight barrels for $260. Just so's I'm clear on this, you do have to remove the barrel to install the FF HG anyway, right?
    Shoot I built a complete flattop upper, M4 clone barrel, gas tube, and a round free float tube including the bolt and carrier group for $300. Barrel was new blem, used bolt/carrier group and new receiver. Just look around for parts. Find a good price and buy it then wait until you have everything. At least it worked for me.

    Yes you will need a barrel wrench (with the prongs) to install the free float tube barrel nut. I just cut two pieces of furniture grade plywood to place between the top of my receiver and the bottom (between the lugs) and lightly clamped it into my vise to tightenthe nut. Worked like a champ. Do not over tighten the vice, just enough to hold the receiver as you turn the nut.
    Last edited by Q2arrowhunter; 04-27-12 at 13:30.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    Thanks. I've seen some web posts and youtubes on cutting it off. I don't own a Dremel (I know -- sacrilege), but I wonder if getting a receiver vice block and barrel-nut wrench would be any cheaper.
    If you plan on buying/working on more ARs in the future, it would not hurt to invest in a barrel nut wrench and clamshell-style upper receiver vise block.

    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    So I wouldn't need a nut wrench then, and the vice block isn't really needed just to get the flash hider and gas block off.
    To (properly) remove the flash hider, you should have a set of barrel vise blocks:

    The vice block isn't needed to remove the front sight post/gas block. You do need a front sight post bench block to remove the front sight (at least to do so without loosing your sanity and/or breaking fingers). Link to the block I'm talking about: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...HT-BENCH-BLOCK
    And if you're gonna buy that, then you should get this also (punch for front sight pins, makes it easier to keep punch on the pins): http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...ER-PIN-STARTER

    To properly remove the flash hider, you should have barrel vise blocks: (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...RREL-VISE-JAWS), but plenty of folks use the regular upper receiver vise block. Just be careful with how much force you apply.

    Long story short: To do it right will cost some money, there is usually nothing "cheap" about doing it right.
    Last edited by SteadyUp; 04-27-12 at 17:17.
    All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.

    -Thomas Jefferson

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    Thanks. I was wondering how big a weight difference there was M4 barrel vs pencil, but wasn't finding much info on it anywhere. From this, it looks like 2-3 oz.s is hardly worth the trouble/$.
    It matters where that weight is, remember. On an M4 or A2 barrel, the barrel diameter from chamber to FSB is the same as an A1 barrel. So that 2-3 oz is all at the muzzle end, making it feel heavier and harder to drive target-to-target.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteadyUp View Post
    .....The vice block isn't needed to remove the front sight post/gas block. You do need a front sight post bench block to remove the front sight (at least to do so without loosing your sanity.....
    I managed over the weekend to remove the FSB pins (right-to-left on this M&P/Stag, as Good Robb advised) but only after some WD-40 followed by heat. Man were they tight! Nearly did cost my sanity.

    Quote Originally Posted by SteadyUp View Post
    .....To (properly) remove the flash hider, you should have a set of barrel vise blocks.....plenty of folks use the regular upper receiver vise block. Just be careful with how much force you apply
    I was profoundly unable, however, to get the slightest budge out of the flash hider. Some major torque is going to be needed, possibly beyond the safe-limit of the reciever block, so looks like the barrel block will be needed instead.

    Having a barrel block though, won't that also let me loosen the barrel nut, without having to use use a receiver block?

    I'm planning to order all this stuff this morning, so need to complete the list ASAP.
    Last edited by blackscot; 04-30-12 at 08:29.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    Having a barrel block though, won't that also let me loosen the barrel nut, without having to use use a receiver block?
    allow maybe, but not done correctly.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    allow maybe, but not done correctly.
    Can you elaborate? As long as I have either the receiver or barrel secured, what else is needed to loosen the barrel nut?

    I'm willing to buy whatever is needed to not screw anything up, but likewise would prefer to not end up with tools that I didn't really need.
    Last edited by blackscot; 04-30-12 at 08:18.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    Can you elaborate? As long as I have either the receiver or barrel secured, what else is needed to loosen the barrel nut?

    I'm willing to buy whatever is needed to not screw anything up, but likewise would prefer to not end up with tools that I didn't really need.
    Using a receiver block is the correct way to remove the barrel nut. You're better off spending $40 for the receiver block, then winging it with the barrel block. Different tasks require different tools to be done correctly. And you could always sell the receiver or barrel block on the equipment exchange here.
    All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.

    -Thomas Jefferson

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