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Thread: How can I safely loosen tight threads?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suwannee Tim View Post
    Funny, everyone on the gun forums recommend Kroil. Every millwright, power plant mechanic, utility pipe fitter, etc. I know use PB Blaster. I once saw a bunch of millwrights go on a wildcat strike because they were required to use something other than PB Blaster.
    I don't use Kroil. I use Liquid Wrench which I believe is about the same as the PB Blaster. Both work well.
    Scoby


    “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes. Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.”Thomas Jefferson, quoting 18th century criminologist Cesare Beccaria in “On Crimes and Punishment”, 1764

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASH556 View Post
    When using a claw-type block instead of the clamshell, I find it to be a good idea to put the upper on it's side with the top railed portion of the receiver against a padded jaw insert.

    Here's how I do it:


    I like the way you think.
    Scoby


    “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes. Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.”Thomas Jefferson, quoting 18th century criminologist Cesare Beccaria in “On Crimes and Punishment”, 1764

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    This is what I ordered:
    I prefer more teeth to less, though I have at least one of each kind.

    Smith Ent Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    I wasn't expecting Brownells to be hocking second-rate tools.
    They rarely do, it's the craftsman not the tool.

    Quote Originally Posted by blackscot View Post
    This can't be right.
    No limit on stupid in this world.

  4. #14
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    Saw this in a Mauser forum it may help http://mausercentral.com/barrelremove.htm
    Last edited by dfclin073; 05-02-12 at 19:16. Reason: corrected linked site
    "If, however, we went but a single generation without the warriors who are willing to confront human aggression every day, then within the span of that generation we would truly be both damned and doomed."
    - Lt. Col. David Grossman, U.S. Army (retired)

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfclin073 View Post
    Saw this in a Mauser forum it may help \.http://www.mausercentral.combarrelremove.htm
    I think you meant http://mausercentral.com/barrelremove.htm

  6. #16
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    After 30 years of automotive work, I know a couple things about tight fasteners that pretty much work on everything.

    Vibration is very helpful in getting a tight fastener off without destroying it. If that nut is fighting you, try this. Use a thin block of wod, to avoid marring, and a stel hammer. Place the wood over the nut and start banging on it. No need to wallop it, just tap, tap, tap it maybe about 40-50 times. This will also assist your lube to creep into the threads.

    Next, use your wrench to TIGHTEN the nut a little. Now try to loosen it. Repeat several times. If this don't do the trick, I'd give the tap method one more try. Then i'd use a 3 foot long pipe for a breaker bar and most likely the nut will break loose.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hals1 View Post
    Thank you for the correction hals1
    "If, however, we went but a single generation without the warriors who are willing to confront human aggression every day, then within the span of that generation we would truly be both damned and doomed."
    - Lt. Col. David Grossman, U.S. Army (retired)

  8. #18
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    I've only built a few ARs, but having spent a good part of my career as a sail boat rigger, I know a LOT about stuck aluminum.

    1] PB Blast > Kroil > WD40

    2] I'd bet that you are going to find it easier than you are fearing, but if it is not coming easy, Get the wrench on it, load it up, and strike the wrench with a hammer- it needn't be in the direction of the wrench, and it shouldn't be hard- just a few 'ringing' taps will usualy do it.

    3] the tiniest amount of Never- Seize you possibly apply is a little more than you need, and will get EVERYWHERE.

    4] a LITTLE heat is plenty, and Aluminum is tough to judge. About 400-500 degrees f is plenty. Heat, a little PB Blast, let it cool, heat it, PB, then try the wrench. A heat gun is better than an open flame, and DO HAVE A WET RAG HANDY. And a fire extinguisher.

  9. #19
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    Every flash hider I have removed so far, a good six or seven, have not fit my two open end wrenches very well. I have a 12 inch Crescent wrench which can be adjusted to fit perfectly. This wrench is nearly new and the jaws are not all beaten up and loose and out of parallel like a well used adjustable wrench usually is. I usually don't use an adjustable for heavy wrenching but in this case it works well.

    One of our members, Mistwolf cited a Boeing directive forbidding the use of filled anti-seize compounds on aluminum as in AR15 barrel nut to upper application. I'll see if I can find that info.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suwannee Tim View Post
    Every flash hider I have removed so far, a good six or seven, have not fit my two open end wrenches very well. I have a 12 inch Crescent wrench which can be adjusted to fit perfectly. This wrench is nearly new and the jaws are not all beaten up and loose and out of parallel like a well used adjustable wrench usually is. I usually don't use an adjustable for heavy wrenching but in this case it works well.

    One of our members, Mistwolf cited a Boeing directive forbidding the use of filled anti-seize compounds on aluminum as in AR15 barrel nut to upper application. I'll see if I can find that info.
    Used properly, an adjustable wrench is often the best tool for the job- and sometimes, it's the only tool you've got...

    'Never Seize' and other anti seize compounds come in different formulations- I do know that the copper based ones are a no-go for aluminum joints.

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