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Don't forget that you'll have to punch the FSB pins and remove the FSB and FH before you can use the PRI barrel wrench.
Do NOT use a receiver clamp to hold the upper so you can remove the flash hider. Secure the barrel or the FSB to counter the torque of removing the FH if it requires any real force to remove, or re-install.
I've used the clam-shell reciever clamps for well over a decade without issues and highly reccomend it.
A gib plus 1 for the bownells moly paste/grease for anti-sieze. I still use a small pot I originally bought back in 2001 and it has served well for many, many builds, and I have also used it for triggers as well.
Have fun!
Last edited by GrumpyM4; 05-03-12 at 05:16.
It is missing the point to think that the martial art is solely in cutting a man down; it is in killing evil. It is in the strategem of killing the evil of one man and giving life to ten thousand -Yagyu Munemori
It forbids the use of copper based anti-seize on aluminum due to, as was pointed out earlier, the fact it promotes dis-similar metal corrosion. There are other types of anti-seize that work fine and are called out for.
For aluminum AN fittings, the manual often specifies assembly lube
Last edited by MistWolf; 05-03-12 at 14:18.
INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
- ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
- MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
- MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
- BOOM!
- HA-HA!!
-WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"
I am American
All great advice -- thanks.
The Brownells order is scheduled to arrive Monday. I'm going to soak the barrel nut and FH in Liquid Wrench penetrating oil/penetrant over the weekend. I'll also see what kind of non-copper grease I can find for re-assembly.
Shall report back with outcome/results.
Last edited by blackscot; 05-03-12 at 06:51.
I like the DPMS Panther Claw as a receiver block. I doubt there's much difference between Kroil and PB Blaster. As to heat, I'd generally prefer a heat gun to a torch since I think that there's less tendency to get too hot. On re-install, I've always used Neverseeze without regret. Interesting about the copper. I've never heard of it being a problem, but maybe I need to rethink that.
.
Last edited by Hmac; 05-03-12 at 08:10.
Galvanic Corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals are placed in proximity in a conductive environment. In Marine applications, that would be salt water (highly conductive), but even ambient air is usually conductive to become an issue if precautions aren't taken.
Basically, you create a battery, and current will flow from Anode ('less noble) to Cathode (more noble) carrying material on the 'return path' at a molecular level away from the Anode and depositing it on the cathode, creating corrosion that will virtually weld the materials together, as well as destroying the less noble metal
Precautions to avoid Galvanic Corrosion are generally either Isolation or Sacrificial Anodes.
For Isolation, using a good thread locker (such as locite) or even a simple RTV compound to ensure the metals do not have a path for current flow between them.
Use of a sacrificial anode is generally not practical in a weapon application.
SO!
Either a good bond using a conductive compound or isolation using a non conductive compound are good ideas-
However, unless one frequently finds oneself crawling out of the surf with one's weapon, these will be minor concerns over the service life of the rifle.
I am not a metallurgy or Galvanic Expert, but as I mentioned earlier, about 12 years of dealing with SS and aluminum in the marine environment has left me with a more-than-passing familiarity with the subject.
link to the galvanic table
http://www.corrosionist.com/Corros1.gif
More importantly- DO NOT use a propane torch or other open flame to heat the barrel nut. Doing so can damage the aluminum by causing imbrittlement and loss of heat treat.
Be very careful with using a heat gun. Too much heat for too long will cause the loss of heat treat. In fact, unless you know the proper way to control the heat, know how long and how many times the alloy can be heated without loss of heat treat, I would strongly recommend against it
INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
- ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
- MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
- MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
- BOOM!
- HA-HA!!
-WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"
I am American
Thanks for the heads-up. I won't use any heat at the receiver end.
I already used the torch to get the FSB pins out, and unsuccessfully trying to get the FH off. Warmed everything up pretty hot too. Hopefully these all-steel components weren't affected, but anybody please chime in if you think they might have been.
Did you punch out the FSB pins first and then try to remove the flash hider?
If so, put the FSB back together entirely, then clamp the FSB in the bench vise (with some heavy leather to protect the FSB) and then torque the flash hider off.
That is if you don't have barrel blocks, which are a far better option.
It is missing the point to think that the martial art is solely in cutting a man down; it is in killing evil. It is in the strategem of killing the evil of one man and giving life to ten thousand -Yagyu Munemori
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