"Must Do" reliability list

**jstephens202** · 05-13-12, 10:15

Guys, I'm sure this has been asked before, but being the computer moron I am, I can't find the info.
What do you consider the "Must Do" list for making 1911's as reliable as possible?
Thanks for the info and the patience!

**Low Drag** · 05-13-12, 10:22

I have a buddy with 2 Colt 1911s, one government and one cmdr both in blue steel.

He bought extra mags (wilson) and shot the hell out of them. Replaced the recoil springs each year or as needed (meaning sooner if he shot a lot). He did no "reliability work to them).

I have a Colt XSE Cmdr that I've had no reliability work done to. I also shoot with wilson mags.

I've had no issues aside from questionable ammo, meaning too long or too short etc.

We shoot them, clean them, lube them and shoot them some more.

**pinzgauer** · 05-13-12, 13:24

Colt Delta Elite stainless- thousands of round thru it, most of them full power. Lot's of carry time. Box stock except sights. Never missed a lick. I'll probably replace the springs soon. But no "improvements" ever done or needed.

This is like the basic carbine discussion, everyone has to "improve" things, and in doing so introduce issues. Instead, get a good quality Colt or similar, and go shoot the thing. Repeatedly!

The same guys worry about 1911 "fit" do so on upper/lower fit on AR's.

I did polish the feed ramp of a Colt Commander .38 super back in 1980 as the factory JHP's of the time were largely revolver bullets with much exposed lead. With modern projectiles even that would not have been needed.

**LorenzoS** · 05-13-12, 15:28

Get some quality 1911 armorer training like that offered by Vickers or 10-8. It's the software, not the hardware.

**The Dumb Gun Collector** · 05-13-12, 15:30

I tend towards the GI style mags. Millions of dollars have been spent tinkering with mags that aren't as good at the GI mag. If weak just put some wolf sping in them.

I like the C&S extractor. When it comes time to start the retensioning dance, get a C&S. I have dropped them into my full size and commander length guns with zero need for adjustment. In both cases they wee better than the factory extractors which tend to be under tensioned (as opposed to must custom guns which seem to be over tensioned).

Stick to factory weight springs.

If you have a Series 80 gun don't remove the guts. Having a drop saftey makes sense.

Get slotted screws.

In my opinion, the best 1911 is the current Colt S80 with a set of Novak or Heinie sights. You need something like a Wilson beaver tail and honestly the rest is guilding the lilly.

**Gary1911A1** · 05-13-12, 16:16

Along with good magazines and ammo, the extractor is equally important. I have seen the C&S Carbon Steel Extractor advertised as being made from spring steel like John Browning designed it for. Anyone know for sure?

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index....ow&ref=CS0023B

**wetidlerjr** · 05-13-12, 18:34

Originally Posted by jstephens202

Guys, I'm sure this has been asked before, but being the computer moron I am, I can't find the info.
What do you consider the "Must Do" list for making 1911's as reliable as possible?
Thanks for the info and the patience!

Shoot it (a lot) and then if it isn't reliable, take it to a 'smith and have it corrected. Good mags and spring changes when needed (as already suggested) are often all that you need to do. The idea that the 1911 design is inherently unreliable and needs work is just so much BS.

**lordofbarbeque** · 05-13-12, 19:46

You can get a good feel for a reliability job ( I assume that is what you are asking about ) by looking at one described on SA custom sheet or John Harrison site ( just 2 of many examples ). Alot of these checks are making sure gun is in spec. Other changes are to help the pistol help itself. My intent here is for improved functioning so improved accuracy won't be addressed.

This would be my list if I asked for it from a reputable 1911 smith assuming pistol is currently functioning, but say, just out of the box with new springs and such. Remember, a reliability job ( to me ) is making sure the pistol functions every time, not custom/added features, ie. magwell over beveled mag opening or sights.

Frame area: Starting with magazine area, I would want to check mag catch and trigger bow to ensure they do not contact mag when I don't want them to. Then, I want atleast .395" depth on my frame barrel ramp and I want it polished. I want my barrel to be backspaced on barrel saddle ( back about .030" ) and look for proper timing. Lastly, I want to check slidestop for proper functioning.

Barrel: I want a proper barrel throat angle (roughly 28 deg ) and polished ( they usually don't open it enough on factory jobs ). Next, I want a decent lockup in upper with a decent & level lockup with lower lugs. VIS should be cut correctly to protect lower lug feet over time.

Slide area: I want to lower the the ejection port and add live round ejection. I want to tune extractor and eliminate any clocking issues, if present. I want to check the ejector for solid contact with shell case and oversize it, if needed. Not so worried about a tight slide to frame fit.

Ignition area: I want my sear to contact the hammer hooks evenly and I want no side play in disco. I would like a 4-5 lb trigger and of course all safety checks, especially for any pre-travel.

I am sure that I have left out something, and someone will chime in. However, I believe that if you have this work done on your SA GI ( an example ), Then you have a pistol for less than $1,200 ( estimate ) that will run with the best of them. Or atleast, that what I did with my GI. Hope this helps.