Bumping an old one here...
Do you cats know what is in an A5 "-1" buffer? I was given one... and I don't have a scale that measure in the range of buffer weights.
It seems lighter than the standard A5.![]()
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Bumping an old one here...
Do you cats know what is in an A5 "-1" buffer? I was given one... and I don't have a scale that measure in the range of buffer weights.
It seems lighter than the standard A5.![]()
"You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan
H0, 3.8 oz
H1, 4.56oz
H2, 5.33oz
H3, 6.08oz
H4, 6.83oz
The H1's most commonly used in midlength 14.5s.
Last edited by Brahmzy; 02-22-13 at 08:28.
So does the "-" sign mean Negative 1 or H1? And how does that align with the STANDARD that you get with NO markings?
Why did these monkies make something so simple.. such a goat screw??
I hate to have to drive down to Tucson and straighten that whole operation out.![]()
"You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan
LOL
First time I saw the '-1' I was a little puzzled, then I saw the '-0' buffers too. And yeah, wish the std buffed were labeled like the others, and they are if you buy them seperately. Only when they're purchased in kit form are they the non-descript style. I had the exact same WTF thought, lol.
Last edited by Brahmzy; 02-22-13 at 08:43.
What I've taken to doing instead of changing buffer weights is to change buffer springs.
If the recoil is too snappy for my poor arthritic shoulder I up the power of the buffer spring.
Why do this? It's cheaper and just as fast as swapping buffers. Also, in today's post panic market the damned A5 buffers are just a little hard to find.
Glad there hasn't been a "panic run" on buffer springs yet.
After dicking around and spending hundreds on all of this BS for years, I finally found a system that I have been 100% happy with all of my rifles - reliable and soft shooting. Same RE (A5 RE-10), same buffer (A5 H1), same spring (Polished, +7% JP, rifle length), same gas block (Syrac Adj.), same BCG (NiB WMD + Lube).
This is THE best setup IMO and is reliable as hell. Very little friction, works with all ammo types clean/dirty, let's you tune each gun to it's absolute best. Some need very little tuning, some need/benefit a bunch. Gas block does NOT change or loosen. Runs the low-power stuff when dirty.
Done and done.
What you have is likely what I've been running since right after they were released so it would work well in my 14.5" mid, though I went back to a carbine RE for that rifle.
I'm guessing the -1 is the standard A5 with one tungsten replaced with a stainless. So, three stainless and one tungsten, if I remember correctly. In my 10.5" and even my 6720, the standard A5 was slow enough that I could feel a ca-chunk for lack of a better term. With one tungsten removed, it cycles quicker, but still keeps it reliable with all my rifles.
If I'm not mistaken (again), the two tungsten/two stainless weighs the same as the rifle RE's five stainless. As you're aware, the H1, H2, etc., does not relate to a carbine RE's H, H1, H2, etc.
In all the rifles I've owned since the A5 was released besides my BCM 14.5" mid length, the best setup for my needs was replacing one tungsten with one stainless weight (A5H1) with a standard rifle action spring. From 10.5" up to an 18" rifle gas system, this has been the most reliable while still feeling quick in hand. The standard A5 was reliable, but felt a little sluggish, even when suppressing the 10.5". Backing off one tungsten fixed that without sacrificing reliability across the different barrel lengths and gas systems.
Last edited by jonconsiglio; 02-22-13 at 12:07. Reason: Spelling
Proven combat techniques may not be flashy and may require a bit more physical effort on the part of the shooter. Further, they may not win competition matches, but they will help ensure your survival in a shooting or gunfight on the street. ~ Paul Howe
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