The Fighting Carbine, AK Edition

**Dave_M** · 01-17-13, 00:32

Here's something I did about light mounts for Ultimak rails. Relevant to this thread:

Alright, this is obviously AK specific.

It's more specific than most as it's about mounting lights from a 12 o'clock rail system (such as the much preferred Ultimak rail)

Now, there are many options but not all of them work. The light mount needs to be low-pro, in order to not confound the sights (VTAC is not a good option for this, nor the Daniel Defense or most 45 degree offsets) as well as easy to use.

I'm going to cover several different systems/setups in this thread. Here they are:

(Left to right: HSP Surefire Scout mount, Vltor QD light mount, NC Star offset 45 degree, and Botach KZ Offset mount)

Yes, there are obviously more options (and even more derivatives) but this covers many of them

The HSP mount is good, especially for those running something else other than a regular lower handguard. With a regular lower-HG (and for those with big hands) it has to be set further back than usual for an ideal position, Shown is the HSP mount for Surefire Scout lights (it is very specific) but mounts are available for pic/weaver mounts

Shown is the Vltor QD light mount but it is about the same with the (slightly less expensive) screw mounted offset version.

NC Star 45 Degree offset mount. Well, it's NC Star--what more can I say? However, one [shitty] particular light mounting system does make make a weapons system a bust, as it is ideal that your light mount fails before your rail/mounting system. (Shown with a Vltor ring, which is pretty inexpensive. Though, I paid like $9 for the NC Star offset mount, which still I consider too much...)

Finally the Botach Tactical/KZ Offset light mount. No, it isn't much but holds a 1" flashlight securely all the same. Commentary is verbatim from the NC Star mount,

So what do I actually use on AK/AKM's?

Vltor is on my Arsenal. Surprisingly, the KZ in on my FN SCAR. The NC Star, while initially shows value, is quickly degraded by the poor build quality combined with the extra cost of a mounting solution for the light itself.

Flashlight mounts and VFG's--you don't have to spend a ton (nor should you) to get the job done.

**Rmplstlskn** · 01-17-13, 11:27

I am curious about feedback on the Parabellum Armament AKARS rear cover mount for the AK...

I just got mine from AIM Surplus and installed it on my Bobby at Salbo Arms-built AK-74 Tantal. It appears very rigid and well-designed, but no rounds downrange with it yet.

My only issue right off was either their rail is out of spec or the factory Aimpoint Micro low mount is out of spec, as the Aimpoint mount would not tighten on the rail. The block was pulled in all the way till it touched the mount but it still wiggled on the rail. I am presently looking into what LOW mount I need to buy, primarily seeking out a Larue LT-661 or an ADM low mount...

When I get the Micro T1 mounted on the AKARS, I plan to do a test of the RTZ after multiple cover closing and openings...

Rmpl

**David Thomas** · 01-17-13, 12:34

Originally Posted by Rmplstlskn

I am curious about feedback on the Parabellum Armament AKARS rear cover mount for the AK...

Rmpl

that looks awesome. first time i have seen this and looking forward to reports

**bryan1211** · 01-17-13, 20:11

Regarding enhanced ak safeties & without starting a new thread…

Has anyone experienced hyper extending issues on milled ak’s when utilizing an enhanced safety? (op I notice you have a milled ak)

I’ve come to the conclusion after ordering a Krebs custom safety VI (very well made safety and worth the money, just maybe not on a milled gun from my experience), that because a milled ak lacks a stamped safety stop on the trigger guard and instead utilizes a pin in the receiver. Trying to use a “somewhat” easily moved safety will cause the safety to “hop” that pin and hyper extend the safety in a high stress situation (most likely why the Bulgarians adopted the Galil style safety on their milled guns)…

Then if it’s tight enough not to over extend (seats very solidly in the detent), it is extremely hard to manipulate the safety and thus defeats the purpose of an enhanced safety (and $60).

Just trying to see what some of you think of this and if maybe anyone has gone through this before (most likely just a flaw in the early milled design)?

By the way my rifle is a SLR-101s and the factory safety is very tight and has never had issues (it would take Hercules to over extend the stock safety, but now I think I know why).

I will also note that a slight dremel was also needed on the Krebs Mark VI safety to make it drop into fire (very easy, but needed as it interfered with the safety catch pin). Just a heads up!

Thanks for any replies!

**Doc. Holiday** · 01-18-13, 09:19

Dave awesome write up! Thanks for taking the time to do this for everyone. This will help a lot of future guys out there who are wondering what system to get and why.

**Dave_M** · 01-18-13, 14:36

Originally Posted by bryan1211

Regarding enhanced ak safeties & without starting a new thread…

Has anyone experienced hyper extending issues on milled ak’s when utilizing an enhanced safety? (op I notice you have a milled ak)

I haven't experienced that problem. I suspect it could be corrected with a cut into the receiver (if it were a large problem)

I will also note that a slight dremel was also needed on the Krebs Mark VI safety to make it drop into fire (very easy, but needed as it interfered with the safety catch pin). Just a heads up!

Part of the problem with many of the drop-in's is that they were intended to be universal. The problem is that safety selectors are made to slightly different specs depending on the nation of origin. Thinking on it, perhaps I don't have a problem on my particular rifle because I welded the shelf on myself instead of outright ordering a universal enhanced selector. However, I have used Blackjack SWIFT levers on milled guns without problems, so... dunno.

One problem that I have seen with some Yugoslavian AK's is the opposite problem--if one pushes the safety on (or, 'up') too hard it can cause the hammer to drop. Really, the exact opposite of what you want. Newer imports come with a selector lever that doesn't do this but some of the early ones can be a problem.

The Yugo on the bottom has the lever that prevents this (little shelf on the top rear that hits the top cover). The one on top does not.

**Bulletdog** · 01-18-13, 16:05

Thank you for greatly clarifying some waters that look very muddy to my eyes.

Thanks for the other two articles too. Excellent work.

**Dave_M** · 01-19-13, 00:56

Originally Posted by Rmplstlskn

My only issue right off was either their rail is out of spec or the factory Aimpoint Micro low mount is out of spec, as the Aimpoint mount would not tighten on the rail. The block was pulled in all the way till it touched the mount but it still wiggled on the rail.

First and foremost, try another known-quantity rail accessory and see if it locks down. Between the two, Aimpoint is certainly a known quantity (never heard of an out-of-spec AP factory mount but some people still win the lottery so....)