Thank you F2S. I was an inexperienced shooter that thought the 50yd IBZ was the shit. Now that you've set me on the straight and narrow, I see the errors of my ways. Consider me another convert, and thank you again for the info posted here!
Thank you F2S. I was an inexperienced shooter that thought the 50yd IBZ was the shit. Now that you've set me on the straight and narrow, I see the errors of my ways. Consider me another convert, and thank you again for the info posted here!
Next time you hear the word "FREE", try replacing it with "TAXPAYER-FUNDED".
"War is a terrible thing, but there are things much worse than war. A man who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing he cares about more than his personal safety, is a miserable creature who has no chance of being free unless made and kept by the operation and sacrifice of better men than himself." -Col. Bruce E. Wallace
Thanks again F2S for this excellent post. I just wanted to ask if it's ok to paraphrase some of the information for a blog post I am doing, with acknowledgements to F2S right up front of course.
Thanks again Jack.
Travis Haley makes a good case for a 300 yard Zero.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iCNIRuQuBg
Actually, he didn't make a case for any zero. He stated for a person to pick the zero that best meets their needs. When talking about zero, not everyone had access to beyond 100 yards and/or have vision issues at distance.
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Cool, I hate watching videos and was wondering if that was a drive by post.
I am curious how the 300m, as shown, works out with an 11.5" and a 16". I know I can get hits out to 350 with both my 11.5" and any of my 16's with the same zero. I will have to take a look into the charts to see if that is also the case with what he has shown in the video. Not sure if it will be enough for me to change, I would rather shoot than figure out a new zero.
Well, first of all, I did not see anyone mention it in the thread and thought it would be relevant to the conversation.
The video does a great job of "Summing up" each of the different zero ranges.
I may have phrased my statement incorrectly, and I apologize if so. I did not say, and certainly did not imply, that a 300 yard Zero was the best. Nor did I say that Travis says the 300 yard zero is the best.
I only said that he made a good case for it.
I only meant to imply that, based on his video, the 300 yard zero looks to be the best compromise. 5 inches of deviation from 0-300 yards is a very small window.
I, personally, can accept 5 inches. If you or your situation can not, than Zero differently.
I am in no way trying to discredit F2S information, technique or this thread.
Last edited by wake.joe; 09-17-12 at 13:01.
Is that the zero you use?
I would also question the abilities of most shooters when shooting out at 300m with a red dot and middle of the road ammo shot out of a chrome lined barrel.
Last edited by orionz06; 09-17-12 at 12:16.
Not sure if you're asking me, but;
No. I zero at 100 yards with my reddot equipped rifle.
But only because I have no use for it to shoot further than 100 anyway. If forced to go the distance, the holdhover is simple. I can and do make hits at 300 with this rifle on steel. I could not give you a group size.
On my TR24 equipped rifle, however, I do use a 300 yard zero. For two reasons- Number one, the reticle does not lend itself to using hold overs. Number two, that rifle does see a lot of use at varied distances (Vs sub-100 distances) and if I ever really needed to make a super "Precision" shot at some of those ranges, the reticle is much more suited to hold-under.
Last edited by wake.joe; 09-17-12 at 12:58.
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