Ok guys, school me on steel S&W snubnose revolvers

[skyugo]

My 642 broke its hammer pin. I dry fired the crap out of it, live fired the crap out of it, and apparently that did it in. I emailed smith, i have no doubt they will take care of me. This is not a rant about that...


So, I've concluded from this experience that since my daily carry is heavily reliant on a snubby, that I should have 2.

A 100% practical guy would run out and buy a second 642. I'm not quite that guy.

So I'm thinking a model 36, which i will probably bob the hammer on. (or install a bobbed hammer) This gun will be shot much and carried little. The 642 will still get the majority of my carry use. That said I'd like it to fit in my j-frame holsters-destantis nemesis pocket holster and a sideguard tuck clip (shouldnt' be a problem) Also would like one with no lock.
So what are the good years to get? Should i just buy a brand new one? I'd like to keep it ~400 dollars.

[cathellsk]

I've got several J frames and am a big fan of them. Your looking for a 36-7. They were the last ones made on the old style frame before the magnum frame change. They are no lock and have all tool steel parts. They were the first to be factory rated for +P use. They were the first to be upgraded to the 1/8 inch wide front sight and coresponding rear sight notch like the current production snubbies. They were made from around 1990-1995/'96. '96 was the change to MIM parts and the magnum frame. If you decide on stainless the 60-7 was the same as the 36-7. Early ones came with the orginal style wood grips then in '94 they started shipping with the Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips.

You can also always try to find a no dash 640 which has the same upgrades mentioned above and is identical to you 642 but all stainless. I have two and will never get rid of them.

[skyugo]

I've got several J frames and am a big fan of them. Your looking for a 36-7. They were the last ones made on the old style frame before the magnum frame change. They are no lock and have all tool steel parts. They were the first to be factory rated for +P use. They were the first to be upgraded to the 1/8 inch wide front sight and coresponding rear sight notch like the current production snubbies. They were made from around 1990-1995/'96. '96 was the change to MIM parts and the magnum frame. If you decide on stainless the 60-7 was the same as the 36-7. Early ones came with the orginal style wood grips then in '94 they started shipping with the Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips.

You can also always try to find a no dash 640 which has the same upgrades mentioned above and is identical to you 642 but all stainless. I have two and will never get rid of them.

cool thanks for the help!

[Frailer]

I've got several J frames and am a big fan of them. Your looking for a 36-7. They were the last ones made on the old style frame before the magnum frame change. They are no lock and have all tool steel parts. They were the first to be factory rated for +P use. They were the first to be upgraded to the 1/8 inch wide front sight and coresponding rear sight notch like the current production snubbies. They were made from around 1990-1995/'96. '96 was the change to MIM parts and the magnum frame. If you decide on stainless the 60-7 was the same as the 36-7. Early ones came with the orginal style wood grips then in '94 they started shipping with the Uncle Mikes rubber boot grips.

You can also always try to find a no dash 640 which has the same upgrades mentioned above and is identical to you 642 but all stainless. I have two and will never get rid of them.

I wholeheartedly agree. The 60-7 and no-dash 640 were the best of the all-steel J-frames. You need one of each . FWIW my 640 wears the Uncle Mikes it came with; my 60-7 is a "Ladysmith" with its original smooth rosewood grips with a Tyler-T.

ETA: both these guns have the firing pin on the hammer, and I've seen reports of people having some difficulty finding replacement noses. You might want to use snap caps when dry-firing these.

[cathellsk]

I currently have two 640 no dashes, a 60-7, a 36-7, and one each new production no lock 642-1 and 442-1. All are wearing Uncle Mikes boot grips except my newest, the 442, since I'm out of them and had to use a Hogue Bantam grip so speedloaders would work. I like the new rubber grips S&W is using but they will not work with HKS, Safariland, or S.L. Variant speedloaders. Thats a no-go for me.

[JodyH]

I'm really liking my new 640 "Pro Series".
No lock, Trijicon night sights, cut for moon-clips.
I added a Apex trigger kit and some Crimson Trace 405 laser grips and it's about as perfect of a steel J-frame as can be found IMO.

[anachronism]

I'd look at a 640, or even a 649 all steel gun to use for a training/practice gun, and leave the 642 for carry. You'll be able to have almost unlimited practice with the steel guns, while reducing the wear & tear on the 642.

[skyugo]

I'd look at a 640, or even a 649 all steel gun to use for a training/practice gun, and leave the 642 for carry. You'll be able to have almost unlimited practice with the steel guns, while reducing the wear & tear on the 642.

Will those fit a 642 holster?

[gunnut284]

I'll add another recommendation for a 640, similar to the 642 but all stainless. I think the current model is a slightly longer barrel and .357 Mag but you may be able to find an older model if you want an identical setup.

[Frailer]

Will those fit a 642 holster?

Any of the all-steel 38 special J-frames will fit in a 642 holster, unless the holster has a retention strap that wraps around the area where the hammer would be, in which case you're limited to the 640. Most of the .357 variants will fit *most* holsters, but you may run into issues with some models--e.g. the 640-1 with the 2-1/4" barrel and full underlug (like the one pictured above)--or some kydex holsters that won't accommodate the longer .357 cylinder.