IMO if you were going to spend the money to have someone play with the stock parts just step up and buy the cheap Geissele/ALG trigger because the all the surfaces are hardened.
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IMO if you were going to spend the money to have someone play with the stock parts just step up and buy the cheap Geissele/ALG trigger because the all the surfaces are hardened.
Why does everyone want colt to offer lpk's if the triggers are crap? I've tried a few different triggers and the Geiselle ssa has been well worth its price to me.
Last edited by Clint; 07-16-12 at 23:09.
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I should have been more clear.
I'm not worried about debris getting between the screw and the trigger assembly tail, the "stuff" I'm talking about is anything that is put between the fire control group and the receiver, in this case: a screw.
All that screw is doing is pre-loading the trigger, which is not a terribly good idea to start with. The user is essentially running around with a trigger that is constantly being pulled. Further, if that screw drifts or if fouling builds up on the screw/trigger tail, the user eventually won't be able to reset the trigger. Finally, the user has to drill and tap another hole in the lower receiver, which exposes non-anodized aluminum, and should the user realize that the screw is not something that he wants constantly pre-loading his trigger, there is now another large reservoir within the lower to accumulate all sorts of gunk for no good reason.
When it comes to triggers, there isn't much that can't be done with a stock Colt trigger, and if you have a requirement for your firearm that necessitates an upgraded trigger, it's generally a better idea to shell out the couple of hundred bucks for one of the quality triggers out there than to drill into your receiver and have constant resting weight on the trigger.
Cool, the part on preloading the trigger makes sense, add in build up over set screw (I am kinda bad about cleanin) and I can see a bad situation arising. One question tho, why would I need to tap new hole? The set screw just goes over grip screw, I could just back out. Even if alittle hard to turn at first, a soak over night will loosen. Thanks again for the heads up and info.
Last edited by lunchbox; 07-17-12 at 10:51. Reason: to add an "o"...can you find where?
^^ Read with southern accent !^^ and blame all grammatical errors on Alabama's public school system.
Technique is nothing more than failed style. Cecil B DeMented
"If you can't eat it or hump it, piss on it and walk away."-Dog
Go where the food is.
First, I do not recommend the method lunchbox recommended for a "patrol/self defense carbine." Also, I generally agree with F2S' posts.
The method described by lunchbox has been around for decades. You do not have to drill any additional holes in your receiver to utilize this method. A company actually makes a grip screw drilled and tapped in the center for a smaller adjustment screw. That way you don't have to take your grip screw out to adjust the sear engagement. This method adjusts/limits the amount of sear engagement. In reality it is not any different, as far as take up, than an adjustable trigger in a precision rifle. Unlike a good adjustable trigger it does nothing for over travel. There is a method to adjust over travel where you drill and tap a hole in your receiver. I have seen guns that have been drilled and tapped in two places for take up and over travel. The method of drilling and tapping a hole for a take up screw makes it easier to adjust take up than the one described by lunchbox, but his method will achieve the same goal without adding additional holes in the receiver.
In my opinion adjustable triggers have their place in precision and competition rifles, but not in patrol or self defense guns.
Earlier, someone posted that for a patrol rifle you should use a stock factory trigger or buy a geissele. Some agencies only allow factory triggers. There is nothing wrong with polishing the sear engagement of your hammer and trigger as long as polish is all you do and do not cut through the case hardening. Personally I do not like polishing wheels or compounds for this purpose. If a surface is uneven, even minutely, a compound or polishing wheel does nothing to true it. With a polishing compound that burr on your trigger may "win out" and cut a corresponding "rut" in your hammer. For hammer and sear work I prefer a fixture/jig and polishing stones. This keeps the surfaces true.
When my LE6920 was newly purchased it seemed 'gritty' too. Since this is a patrol carry rifle I am not allowed to do any type of trigger work.
I've put about 4500-5K through it and I've noticed it has smoothed out. This past weekend at a 2 day class I noticed it for the first time. I can't remember when it smoothed out.
And I only noticed it after handling some others' rifles in the class. They had new rifles and they seemed 'gritty.'
For me, I'll never do any type of trigger work or replacing other than stock. It's simpler, for me, to just run stock and not worry about anything.
Some of the ideas on here are pretty good and the information passed is great. That is what I love about M4C.
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