Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 77

Thread: how to take the gritty out and lighten my 6920

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    2,679
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Get a 22 converter or a 22 upper. My wife and I burnt two boxes of 550 in about two hours yesterday morning, probably go back Monday or Tuesday and do it again. That'l. break it in real quick like.

    Here is a related question, more rhetorical than inquisitive: Why does a trigger have to be either expensive or rough? Seems like it should be possible to make a reasonablly good trigger for reasonable money.

    Another question: Has anyone ever heard of putting fine abrasive compound on the surfaces to speed the break in? I've polished in all kinds of stuff over the years but never a trigger. Seems like I have read or heard of such but I can't remember the details. My memory don't work like it used to.
    Last edited by Suwannee Tim; 07-14-12 at 20:09.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Cleveland, OH
    Posts
    74
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Well that was fun while it lasted....

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    637
    Feedback Score
    0
    I do not like buffing wheels for sear engagement work. A hard Arkansas or Ruby stone with a flat/true surface will work. My sear stones are only used on sears.

    Look at how the trigger interacts with the hammer while in the cocked position. Press the trigger and watch it release the hammer. (Do not let the hammer strike the lower, catch it.)

    By watching how these two parts, hammer and trigger, interact you will see two flats, one on each part. Very lightly polish the flats. Do not change the geometry of them, just polish them. As others have pointed out the parts are case hardened. Do not cut through the case hardening. Break the 90 degree edges and corners with your stone.

    That is about it.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    18
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Suwannee Tim View Post
    Another question: Has anyone ever heard of putting fine abrasive compound on the surfaces to speed the break in? I've polished in all kinds of stuff over the years but never a trigger. Seems like I have read or heard of such but I can't remember the details. My memory don't work like it used to.
    Just did this myself and it worked great. I started out with fine Clover Compound, putting a dab on the hammer engagement surface and dry firing a bunch of times. It will feel gritty and stiff at first but smooths out pretty quickly. Re-apply once you don't feel any more grittiness and dry fire some more. You'll be able to see the hammer surface getting a nice even satin sheen. I took the hammer out and cleaned all the compound off. Used a q-tip to clean off the sear. Put the hammer back in and apply Flitz polishing compound to the same hammer engagement surface. Dry fired a bunch of times re-applying the Flitz occasionally. Removed the hammer and cleaned it and the sear. Re-lube, re-install and it was a great.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    36
    Feedback Score
    0
    I wonder if shooting in dry sandy condition, ie Iraq, would take any of the roughness out. I would think that the fine sand would get in the fire control and take some of the edges off.
    wicked windy, super far, a bunch of Mills..... Send it!

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    1,612
    Feedback Score
    10 (100%)
    For anyone that is going to try lapping compound I would put it ONLY on the surfaces that you a looking to modify.

    If you get it on the pins and the holes in the lower receiver you are going to wear those too.
    Last edited by EzGoingKev; 07-15-12 at 11:16.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    18
    Feedback Score
    0
    Exactly, just a dab on a toothpick to get it just where you need it.

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    8,422
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    I had good results with my GI type trigger by simply applying grease to the sear surfaces and the pins. It eliminated nearly all of the grittiness, reduced pull weight slightly and the trigger became predictable and repeatable. I recommend trying this with dry firing before attempting any polishing, stoning or lapping. Depending on trigger, the case hardening can be very thin and worn through very quickly
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    2,679
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    I've got a SCAR 17S and the trigger is still hideous after 500 shots and maybe 1000 dry fires. I might try the lapping compound thing. I can live with heavy and creepy but it alternates between a single stage trigger and a two stage trigger. It's very difficult to control.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mer2112 View Post
    Just did this myself and it worked great. I started out with fine Clover Compound, putting a dab on the hammer engagement surface and dry firing a bunch of times.......
    What grit on the Clover compound?


    Quote Originally Posted by EzGoingKev View Post
    For anyone that is going to try lapping compound I would put it ONLY on the surfaces that you a looking to modify.

    If you get it on the pins and the holes in the lower receiver you are going to wear those too.
    Good point.
    Last edited by Suwannee Tim; 07-15-12 at 16:52.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Where The Wind Never Blows, Wyoming
    Posts
    1,956
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Suwannee Tim View Post
    I've got a SCAR 17S and the trigger is still hideous after 500 shots and maybe 1000 dry fires. I might try the lapping compound thing. I can live with heavy and creepy but it alternates between a single stage trigger and a two stage trigger. It's very difficult to control.



    What grit on the Clover compound?




    Good point.
    Here's a link to their grit chart.

    http://www.newmantools.com/clover.htm#gritlink

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •