Calculating with SHOOTER APP?

[Pappabear]

Orkan, or anyone else very knowledgable on Shooter. The other day I took my 300WM out to 1400 yards. It was exactly 14mils with 208 AMAX bullets. As always, when I run Shooter, its a little off...it said 12 mils. I'm sure it was user error.

So what is the best way to true it up? I wish I could put, 14 mils is the number. But I go in and play with velocity to make it match. If I do this, will the other calculations be correct? i.e. 700 yards in my shooter app be on? It ended up being 2775fps for what its worth.

Or is there a better way? I have not chrono the load yet. It was rainy as hell that day so I didn't pull out the chrono. Rain was coming and going.

[CC556]

Did you input accurate environmental data?

[Pappabear]

It looked correct. That's another question, don't they pull environmental data. I have not properly studied these apps.

[QuietShootr]

Something is off if you're out 2 mils. Either your MV is wrong, your BC is entered incorrectly, and/or your env settings are all ****ed up. The maximum error I've found with Shooter once I got all those errors addressed was .3 mils at 1000.

[orkan]

Shooter is DEAD ON to the exact 10th of a mil for me out to past 2000yds with my 338... so for you to be that far off, you aren't putting in proper data.

Everything must be exact, and you must take your readings exactly with devices that you are 100% certain in their accuracy.

Temp, must be dead on to the degree.
Velocity, and BC of the bullet must be dead nuts.
Distance to target must be exact.

Prior to getting a vectronix range finder, I often wondered why my trajectory was off. Turns out it wasn't off. My trajectory was perfect, it's simply that I was dialing in the wrong range. This can happen with any of the major variables.

For me to help you figure out exactly what is going on... I'll need your exact variables that you entered in to get that shooting solution. Everything.

Your ammo profile, your rifle profile, and all of the individual data entered in the environmental fields. You can post them as screenshots if you wish.

Something in your setup is way wrong for you to be off by 2 mils at that distance. You can't use the "pulled data" for your environmental. You must input it manually with an accurate device. (kestrel) If you **** with the velocity, then your curve will be all jacked up and it will just hurt you in the long run. You MUST chrono your load with a VERY accurate chrono if you plan to be on at that distance. Either an Ohler 35p or a PVM-21, or better.

[Ring]

if you true the software RIGHT, and all your other numbers go batshit, you REALLY need to do a tracking test on your scope...

ask me how i know....

[Ring]

"Truing" your ballistic software

“Lowlight”
You can calibrate most software and is simple enough too do.
Some of the elements in the video “Magpul” are correct for other software, like actually shooting to a range that puts the round around 1300fps. (example)
The steps are simple enough, calibrate your scope and if necessary adjust the software using the sight offset, click value, etc. This will work with most software to include the iPhone Apps.
Then, calculate actual drop. You can start at 300 yards to begin. At this range you can adjust your BC if necessary. The BC will move based on the rifle shooting it. For example BulletFlight has an option in the utilities area to adjust BC based on Drop. it will give you a new G1 or G7 which you can then input into your data section.
Lastly you can calibrate the drop out to 800 yards like the video. Checking at distance is the final step, but you should have at least choreographed your load to start with, if you haven't then some software does have functions to adjust it based on drop.
Certain software has a DK function to bend the curve, this is used in place of adjusting the BC or MV, so you can do it a number of ways with a number of different software solutions, not just the Horus. Remember he was hired by Horus in the beginning to work and sell Horus methods and products, so of course they are not going to inform you of other methods.
Calibrating the system like above I have taken software like Field Firing Solutions and Patagonia LB3 out to distances beyond 2000 yards with very successful hit rates. Inside 1500m the first round hits where more consistent than when you didn't do it, and at 1000 yards and in it was too easy with a rifle like a 338LM.
The system calibration should be:
1. Muzzle Velocity using a chronograph
2. Scope calibration to at least 48"
3. Drop to 300 yards to tune with then
4. Drop to to 800 yards to fine tune.

[a0cake]

"Truing" your ballistic software

“Lowlight”
You can calibrate most software and is simple enough too do.
Some of the elements in the video “Magpul” are correct for other software, like actually shooting to a range that puts the round around 1300fps. (example)
The steps are simple enough, calibrate your scope and if necessary adjust the software using the sight offset, click value, etc. This will work with most software to include the iPhone Apps.
Then, calculate actual drop. You can start at 300 yards to begin. At this range you can adjust your BC if necessary. The BC will move based on the rifle shooting it. For example BulletFlight has an option in the utilities area to adjust BC based on Drop. it will give you a new G1 or G7 which you can then input into your data section.
Lastly you can calibrate the drop out to 800 yards like the video. Checking at distance is the final step, but you should have at least choreographed your load to start with, if you haven't then some software does have functions to adjust it based on drop.
Certain software has a DK function to bend the curve, this is used in place of adjusting the BC or MV, so you can do it a number of ways with a number of different software solutions, not just the Horus. Remember he was hired by Horus in the beginning to work and sell Horus methods and products, so of course they are not going to inform you of other methods.
Calibrating the system like above I have taken software like Field Firing Solutions and Patagonia LB3 out to distances beyond 2000 yards with very successful hit rates. Inside 1500m the first round hits where more consistent than when you didn't do it, and at 1000 yards and in it was too easy with a rifle like a 338LM.
The system calibration should be:
1. Muzzle Velocity using a chronograph
2. Scope calibration to at least 48"
3. Drop to 300 yards to tune with then
4. Drop to to 800 yards to fine tune.

Blah Blah Blah. Anything that long written by Frank "Lowlight" Galli is not worth reading (so I didn't).

Whatever he's saying, why not just enter a good G7 Litz BC into Shooter, accurate environmentals, and and accurate MV to start with? It's so simple and if you enter accurate inputs, you WILL get accurate results. There's no reason to do anything else.

[Ring]

Blah Blah Blah. Anything that long written by Frank "Lowlight" Galli is not worth reading. Why not just enter a good G7 Litz BC into Shooter, accurate environmentals, and and accurate MV to start with, and not have to worry about doing any of that shit? That's a rhetorical question.

well, if you dont know why, then its not worth telling you..

[a0cake]

well, if you dont know why, then its not worth telling you..

I sucked it up and read Lowlight's piece. The one useful thing he's saying is to make sure your optic's click values are true. No kidding. Who DOESN'T do this as part of a basic function check? If not, fix it with the elevation correction factor input field.

After that, put accurate data into Shooter and get accurate results. The end.