Sorry for the ND.
Sorry for the ND.
Last edited by ThreeFingerPete; 07-28-12 at 01:25.
I've had rifles that presented the same concerns that you're having. Ultimately, if other good shooters can't get your rifle to group, you can pretty much bet that the rifle isn't going to group for anyone. It's good that you aren't pointing fingers at your equipment, but at some point, if the shooter can be eliminated as a factor, then you pretty much have your answer.
I would also try some different loads. Try some heavier bullets, see if the gun responds.
Prodgi...
Since you have been given so many good points to consider, the only ones I didn't hear yet, was to try # 1 Video yourself while shooting several strings, so that you can review and if possible, be able to super slow motion it to see you and the weapons movement during the the entire process... Simple and cost effective...
( sometimes even a good coach / spotter may miss subtile mistakes )
The more experienced a shooter, the easier it is to fall into some less than perfect habits... Sometimes we develop different habits with a bolt gun, than we do with an auto...
# 2 If you produce better groups from # 1, and would like to try and improve them a little more, try a Young Manufaturing National Match Chrome M-16 Bolt Carrier, which may provide a more consistant Bolt alignment... ( Remember to first check the headspace with the new set-up...)
Nice job on the Kydex support...
I asked the Service Rifle match shooters about the Young NM BCG. They said it does nothing to improve accuracy and they would know
The number of folks on my Full Of Shit list grows everyday
I am American
A couple of thoughts:
1.) Don't drop charge Varget for accuracy testing. I'm sure you get it close, but it's still a fine cut stick powder that won't always come out evenly; regardless of the measure you're using.
2.) Try different powders. I once had a CZ550 Varmint in 22-250 that wouldn't shoot anything under 1" at 100 yards until I tried Reloader 10x; that gun suddenly became a one hole gun. The point of this isn't to say RL10x is the be all/end-all of powders, but only that powder variety can make a huge difference.
3.) I'm not sure the rest type you're using, but if it's a bi-pod, move to a good quality sandbag with a sand rear rest.
If it were me, I wouldn't spend another dollar on equipment until I had done more load testing. With advise you get what you pay for, and mine is free
I think the suggestion to do more load development and software improvement is a good one. I have seen 2 moa buckshot pattern ARs drop to being consistent 5/8 moa performers without any hardware changes. There is a rifles only video floating around online somewhere where they talk about the proper application of fundamentals to gas guns.
What made the biggest difference for me in my AR adventures has been to keep the trigger to the rear until the bolt carried returns to battery, and using the trigger reset much like a Glock. Boltguns seem to be more forgiving than ARs but good followthrough and establishing a solid NPA can make the platform work. If you have ruled out all mechanical assembly issues including scope mounting try more handloads and technique- trying other gas guns might be telling. There is a lot of information on techniques for gas guns out there.
As others have said it's more difficult to drive a gas gun than a bolt action. I went thru the same difficulties when I first began shooting semis. It took a while for me to get my mechanics straightened out. I still shoot a bolt gun better than a semi but the difference is no longer a big issue, practice, practice and practice some more.
The Magpul Precision Rifle Training DVD offered a lot of good advice on how to shoot an AR and the differences with a traditional bolt gun. I was in the same place for a while, typically fast action type shooter, not to tight groups with the scoped AR. That DVD helped me to focus much more on the proper technique that just isn't that important with a bolt gun.
Last edited by Ando; 11-18-12 at 19:58.
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