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Colt specifically mentioned that their patterns were actually anodizing. No dips.
Alex, Owner of Saber Solutions LLC - sabersolutionsllc.net
Yes, it is anodized, but then a dye is applied to color it. For an intricate pattern like those camos on a complex, three-dimensional shape, the water transfer film method would be the most cost effective.
Colored anodized finishes are achieved through dyes, when any color other than the natural anodized finish is desired.
Better control over color and gloss. Can be applied post-factory and to parts besides -um metal parts. Lots of different colors.
I'd like to see tests run on heat dissapation. I think the cerakote will have a higher emissivity than anodizing, but being a thicker coating cerakote might slow down heat transfer. Maybe more of a barrel phosphating/painting question.
I don't think painting is a silver bullet. People have capital built into current manufacturing. Permitting and setting up for spray applications in some areas can be hard.
I like anodized and overcoated with cerakote. I think that plays to the strengths of both- it just would be expensive.
I just did two lines of powdered wig powder, cranked up some Lee Greenwood, and recited the BoR. - Outlander Systems
I'm a professional WAGer- WillBrink /// "Comey is a smarmy, self righteous mix of J. Edgar Hoover and a gay Lurch from the "Adams Family"." -Averageman
Here's my FDE AR, after the first 300 rounds at the range (brass-cased ammo ALWAYS).
In particular, the shell deflector, which takes the GREATEST beating at the range, unless you DROP the rifle.
In this next picture, I have 'cleaned' the affected area... by wiping my thumb across it.
Yes, there is some chipping at the base of the deflector, where the brass impacted on exit. I believe MOST AR's end up that way at the brass deflector, regardless the coating.
It's not a MIRACLE coat... but it's tougher and thinner than anything else you can find to coat a rifle in, and for the externals, it's the finish I prefer, if I'm not leaving it factory black/anodized.
- Either you're part of the problem or you're part of the solution or you're just part of the landscape - Sam (Robert DeNiro) in, "Ronin" -
That is cosmetics. I agree cerakote looks better than goldish anodizing.
I don't see how that is significant to matter in anything other than theory.
I'd like to see tests run on heat dissapation. I think the cerakote will have a higher emissivity than anodizing, but being a thicker coating cerakote might slow down heat transfer. Maybe more of a barrel phosphating/painting question.
Last edited by scottryan; 08-02-12 at 10:18.
"Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm
A major function of coatings is cosmetic.
As to heat dissipation; ever shoot one of JP tube uppers in a three gun match? They can get hot when you miss as much as I do.
Like I said, I'm not sure what effect it would have on performance. I think it would be interesting to see.
I just did two lines of powdered wig powder, cranked up some Lee Greenwood, and recited the BoR. - Outlander Systems
I'm a professional WAGer- WillBrink /// "Comey is a smarmy, self righteous mix of J. Edgar Hoover and a gay Lurch from the "Adams Family"." -Averageman
You place the part in dye after you initially acid etch during the anodizing process.... that's how you can get different color Type II anodized finishes... so basically.. .once you remove the part from the acid bath, you would "dip it" so to say into a water transfer film that would be absorbed into the corrosion and boil sealed in after that...
but... that is only a Type II anodized finish.... if that is what all the fuss is about... then no thank you
I'd much rather just retain the Type III Hard-coat and then just simply have it dipped with a water transfer or Cerakoted.... you lose a lot of surface hardness just using a Type II... it would be the same as just not even anodizing and painting the bare metal... it'll chip and dent very easily... Type III greatly helps prevent dents and dings because of the huge increase in surface hardness...
There is no benefit whatsoever to having an anodized pattern.... you can simply stick with the Type III Hard-coat already on the gun and apply the water transfer film right on top of that... and get the best of both worlds... strong corrosion resistance, vastly increased surface hardness to resist dings and nicks, and the same cosmetic pattern...
I see no point in compromising the coating for sake of a pattern...
But then again... if COLT has somehow cracked the safe on Type III coloring... then by all means go for it....
This is all academic though.... you can't anodize then entirety of the weapon... so Cerakote will usually win out because it can be applied to every square inch... butt to muzzle...
I myself would be more interested in seeing all of the parts of a complete weapon Salt Bath Nitrided from the factory in place of anodizing or other coatings... because you can Nitride all metal parts on the weapon... barrel, BCG, fire control parts, receivers, everything.... replaces the need for a chrome lined barrel, adds surface hardness and corrosion resistance to all the parts and I simply like have uniformity through out the weapon... all the parts have the same surface finish... as opposed to some being anodized, some being parkerized or chrome lined, and others being just heat treated...
Last edited by Reagans Rascals; 08-02-12 at 13:20.
When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat.. - Ronald Reagan
smoke and drink and screw..that's what I was born to do.. - Steel Panther
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