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Thread: Cerakote vs Mil-Spec Type III Anodizing

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by FromMyColdDeadHand View Post
    I'd like to see tests run on heat dissapation. I think the cerakote will have a higher emissivity than anodizing, but being a thicker coating cerakote might slow down heat transfer. Maybe more of a barrel phosphating/painting question.
    I know in the automotive field the application of cerakote on engine parts reduces temperature and increases efficiency which results in more horsepower, so i think there is something there.
    Last edited by VIP3R 237; 08-02-12 at 13:23.
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIP3R 237 View Post
    I know in the automotive field the application of cerakote on engine parts reduces temperature and increases efficiency which results in more horsepower, so i think there is something there.
    I know it definitively helps to have the inside of exhaust pipes ceramic coated... on my bike it really helps to prevent chrome blueing, keeps the heat down on the exterior of the pipes which keeps me from burning my legs frequently and I can definitely notice an increase in power because it helps retain exhaust temps and keep it flowing better...
    When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat.. - Ronald Reagan

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  3. #53
    Dano5326 Guest
    anodizing is exceptionally hard to get reliable results esp. consistent color, and less so.. hardness.

    Remember the occasional purple receivers? Or S&W M&P goldish slides?

    Having worked with several vendors in high end aircraft, maritime, and weapons aluminum & titanium parts, I can appreciate the difficulties. Minor variances can "ruin" whole batches. Too shiny, off color, etc.

    In the end it's a color and if hard enough, of little practical difference for most uses.. colored anodizing isn't significant in any regard.

    However the consumer demands consistant esthetic qualities. And other customers will be concerned with signature issues. IMO anodizing is inappropriate for either concern.

    As far as finishes that professionals use for naked eye, rear IR and IR considerations.. cerakote is a consistent performer.

  4. #54
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    I have 2 10/22's done Cerakote they are holding up real well

  5. #55
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    The professionals that apply anno have there colors down to where they can achieve virtually the same color each and every time. There is even a company called DYE that has a proprietary process called graphic annodising.

    Type II is not as fragile as some are making it out to be. If applied properly it will not dent or flake like some have stated. If the force is hard enough to dent the aluminum it will dent if it is type II or III. As far as scratch resistance type III is better, but it is not a huge difference. I have had pb markers that were type III IS(old aka excalibur). I have also had many that were type II (egos, eteks and many other name only a few will recognize). They take the abuse and keep on going will they get scratches yes but so did the type III excalibur. I have never seen a properly applied anno of any type flake.

    If i wanted to do a camo pattern on an ar i think cerakote is much easier and can be applied over the entire surface. If i could purchase an ar from colt that had all the aluminum parts annoed multi cam i would do it in a heartbeat, and never wory about it being type II. Type III is a nice insurance policy for the military as it probably passes some of the military salt bath testing a little better, most shooters would never know the difference if it was type II or III.


    Edit: i was going to post a couple pics i have of the more intricate jobs i have seen and decided to look around, an i found a company doing a form of graphic annodising they call pixodize. The company says it is a proprietary mil spec hard coat annodising (which should be type III if it truly is mile spec hard anno). The company is IHC and it says that mminimum price is 250 which should cover upper, lower, and a rail. They have an ffl it says. Just wanted to pass on the info. Google IHC or pixodize and it should come up. They have a few pics of the patterns and it looks good.
    Last edited by jstone; 08-04-12 at 19:32. Reason: add info

  6. #56
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    Anodizing, whether type II/III should, should never be removed. As stated earlier in the thread, degrease and paint. The metal parts should be degreased, blasted, cerakote, bake, assemble...With alloys, anodizing is your best friend, if your coating guy want to blast it off in his cabinet, he is not.
    Last edited by Campbell; 08-06-12 at 16:11.
    "I would rather be the hammer than the anvil."- Rommel

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  7. #57
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    great thread

    un-anodized aluminum will corrode and pit from moisture/condensation is this not correct? I was caving with a sponsored professional rock climber one time that refused to cross a tyrolean(horizontal rope run) on equipment that had been exposed for only a short period of time to high humidity. He claimed the metal was seriously weakened (to my eye it was the matte dull aluminum color most is).

    I found this thread from a cerakote search over anodizing, now I am questioning the whole cerakote process due to claims that the metal must be blasted clean. I don't want to ruin the anodizing, nor pay the high price for cerakote and have it not be durable due to undercoating.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildmanjeff View Post
    I found this thread from a cerakote search over anodizing, now I am questioning the whole cerakote process due to claims that the metal must be blasted clean. I don't want to ruin the anodizing, nor pay the high price for cerakote and have it not be durable due to undercoating.
    You do not have to completely remove the anodizing, you just need to rough it up just as you would any surface prior to applying.
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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildmanjeff View Post
    un-anodized aluminum will corrode and pit from moisture/condensation is this not correct? I was caving with a sponsored professional rock climber one time that refused to cross a tyrolean(horizontal rope run) on equipment that had been exposed for only a short period of time to high humidity. He claimed the metal was seriously weakened (to my eye it was the matte dull aluminum color most is).

    I found this thread from a cerakote search over anodizing, now I am questioning the whole cerakote process due to claims that the metal must be blasted clean. I don't want to ruin the anodizing, nor pay the high price for cerakote and have it not be durable due to undercoating.
    Not really, Aluminum is highly susceptible to Aluminum Oxide Corrosion which will slightly corrode the top surface but then hardens and protects the remaining aluminum, there should be no change in durability. It even looks like aluminum just slightly whiteish
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    This is 2012. The world is going to end this December and people are still trying to debate the merits of piece of shit, cost cutting crap AR's. Really?

  10. #60
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    Cerakote is a aircraft paint.

    I don't think the camo pattern is anodized.

    IHC...

    I stand corrected.

    Cool!
    Last edited by Mjolnir; 12-09-12 at 10:50.
    "One cannot awaken a man who pretends to be asleep..."

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