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Thread: Cerakote vs Mil-Spec Type III Anodizing

  1. #61
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    I have a few guns and knives cerakoated and all look pretty spectacular compared to their non-cerakoated counterparts, including a 6920. While I don't have any quantifiable data about it, I know that I've never gotten rust on anything I've had cerakoated either, so based upon my experiences I know I'll be getting more guns coated in the future.

  2. #62
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    Nearest company that does Cerakote is next country from me. Here I could not find gunsmith that can oven cure it. How bad is Air-Dry version? Worth something?
    Montrala

    I'm sponsored competition shooter representing Heckler&Koch, Kahles, Hornady and Typhoon Defence brands in Poland, so I can be biased

    http://montrala.blogspot.com

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tspeis View Post
    There's no reason you can't have both. Just to clarify, I called Cerakote about having a Sig done as I had concerns about blasting the anodizing off the aluminum frame. They advised me that rather than blasting the anodizing away, they rough the surface of it, providing a good base for the coating. This should induce no harm to the anodizing and retain all the benefits of it.

    FWIW, the larger gun manufacturers who do Cerakote in house do not blast the anodizing away prior to applying the coating either, as stated above.


    Tspeis
    I was just going to make this point. You can spray Cerakote right over fresh anodized aluminum. If you buy a brand new receiver with no wear all you have to do is degrease and spray. The anodized finish provides enough bite for the paint to stick great.

    And for slightly worn anodizing, all you have to do is blast with low air pressure to not remove the anodizing but to scuff it up if you will.

    Cerakote over anodizing will give great corrosion resistance. Just make sure you ream all your holes and spray lightly on the insides so your mags will drop free and your bolt wont drag. For rifles I use an airbrush for the inside and an HVLP gun for the outer surfaces.
    Last edited by SigSlave; 12-12-12 at 11:43.

  4. #64
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    I just bought a Sig 716 in FDE. Extremely handsome finish, to me. Does anyone know if Sig is using Cerakote on these ?

    Skip

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by skipper49 View Post
    I just bought a Sig 716 in FDE. Extremely handsome finish, to me. Does anyone know if Sig is using Cerakote on these ?

    Skip
    Yes Sig is using Cerakote as a primary finish on many of their firearms.
    I paint spaceship parts.

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    Stippled Glocks are like used underwear; previous owner makes all the difference in value.

  6. #66
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    I have found with my pretty cerekoted guns i tend to baby them and not treat themlike a tool and more of a piece of art...i know the finish is the best, but i still cannot get used to it. If you can anodize to a certain color and actually have it match and not look like a scar...i would be all over that.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by SigSlave View Post
    I was just going to make this point. You can spray Cerakote right over fresh anodized aluminum. If you buy a brand new receiver with no wear all you have to do is degrease and spray. The anodized finish provides enough bite for the paint to stick great.
    I was thinking this about type 3 "isn't it rough enough? And why would I have to remove it?"

    Since my understanding of type 3 is that it is a conversion of the aluminum surface, not an additional coating.
    Dan Miami, FL

  8. #68
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    There is so much disinformation about anodizing in this thread it's ridiculous.

    Anodizing converts the surface of the aluminum into aluminum oxide which is integral to the base material. It does not flake off. Anodizing offers little resistance to denting but does offer resistance to scratching, fretting and abrasion. If the surface of aluminum is damaged and the bare aluminum is exposed, as long as there is oxygen, the aluminum oxide will reform. Aluminum oxide, whether it's natural or formed by anodizing also protects aluminum from corroding. If conditions exist that prevent the aluminum from forming aluminum oxide, corrosion can begin. The protective layer formed by anodizing is uniform, denser than that formed by natural oxidation and allows control of layer thickness.

    Color has nothing to do with anodizing Type, whether it's I, II or III. Type determines how thick the aluminum oxide is and what specific process is used. Class determines if a dye is used. Class I is undyed. Class II is dyed. The anodizing used on milspec AR receivers is Type III (Hard Anodizing), Class II (Dyed). If an AR were treated with Type III, Class I anodizing, it would still be just as tough. The only difference is the metal would be a dull metallic grey/bronze or grey/black.

    Applying Cerracoat over the anodizing adds another layer of protection. Cerracoat can be formulated to aid in heat dissipation, or to insulate, according to need. For example, applying Ceracoat for heat dissipation to the exterior of a rifle barrel would aid in cooling. Insulating Cerracoat applied to the headers of a car engine would keep more heat inside the header, improving exhaust flow and reducing underhood temps

    For additional reading about anodizing-
    http://www.anodizing.org/Anodizing/w...anodizing.html
    http://www.anodizeusa.com/anodizing-...-hard-coat.php
    http://www.arrowcryogenics.com/hard-...-anodizing.htm
    Last edited by MistWolf; 07-05-13 at 08:50.
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  9. #69
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    ^^^ Excellent post...

    Anodizing is also a great "primer" for painting. The surface matrix created during the conversion process holds paint exceptionally well. The same can be said about phosphating on ferrous metals.

  10. #70
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    I'm glad this thread got bumped. I have an old Mossberg 500A that I've been wanting to have refinished, as it's blued now. It looks like Cerakote will be ideal for what I want.
    Steve

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