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Thread: Cerakote vs Mil-Spec Type III Anodizing

  1. #71
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    Man, I need to pay more attention to posting dates
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  2. #72
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    Never mind
    Last edited by Blak1508; 08-16-13 at 20:15.


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  3. #73
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    Let's get this out of the way first- The color of the rail not matching the rest of the rifle will not change how it shoots. Even if everything did match, how long will that last? Stains from powder residue, gun oil and oil from your hands, fading from the sun, darkening or lightening from age- all take their toll and no two parts will be affected in the same way. Get over it. My sling don't match my FDE furniture. Giving my FDE PMags with an old toothbrush, water and a little dish soap seems to have lightened up my PMags. Oil from my hands have darkened the grip and the handguard. The stainless steel barrel has browned from heat, Powder residue has greyed some parts.

    As I see it, you have two choices- Use it as is, or paint the part and see what happens. Even if you paint the rail, there's a good chance it won't match. Even if it does match, it's still going to be affected by oils, sun fade and aging. Either way, you don't need anyone else's permission or approval to make your choice.

    One thing I will say- don't go back to black. I went with FDE furniture for my ARs for three reasons- First, it's what I like. Second, in the field hunting, a light colored rifle is less conspicuous than a dark one. Third, the most important, FDE does not get as hot out in the sun. Even if your rifle is a patchwork of different browns/tans, it will stay much cooler than it's be if it were black, especially with aluminum handguards (this is why I use polymer or carbon fiber handguards). Besides, the different tones should help break up the rifle's outline.

    If you do decide to paint your rail, some things to consider. Paint adds to the dimensions of the part. Don't make the paint too thick. If not applied carefully, the paint could run or orange peel. All of these conditions could make it difficult to mount your favorite crapola.

    But, if you're not mounting any crapola to the rails, it makes little difference. Realistically, how much crapola do you really want to mount anyway? Maybe a sling swivel and a weapon light.

    In your shoes, I'd mount that rail to my rifle and run it until I either got used to it or my CDO couldn't take it any more, then I'd paint it. But don't worry about it so much that you're not shooting your rifle. Go mount your rail and go shoot. If you want to shoot it with a light coat of spray paint, do it. Shoot it and shoot it, or just go shoot it. Life is too short. Get over it and shoot it
    Last edited by MistWolf; 07-06-13 at 04:21.
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  4. #74
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    Never mind
    Last edited by Blak1508; 08-16-13 at 20:15.


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  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    There is so much disinformation about anodizing in this thread it's ridiculous.

    Anodizing converts the surface of the aluminum into aluminum oxide which is integral to the base material. It does not flake off. Anodizing offers little resistance to denting but does offer resistance to scratching, fretting and abrasion. If the surface of aluminum is damaged and the bare aluminum is exposed, as long as there is oxygen, the aluminum oxide will reform. Aluminum oxide, whether it's natural or formed by anodizing also protects aluminum from corroding. If conditions exist that prevent the aluminum from forming aluminum oxide, corrosion can begin. The protective layer formed by anodizing is uniform, denser than that formed by natural oxidation and allows control of layer thickness.

    Color has nothing to do with anodizing Type, whether it's I, II or III. Type determines how thick the aluminum oxide is and what specific process is used. Class determines if a dye is used. Class I is undyed. Class II is dyed. The anodizing used on milspec AR receivers is Type III (Hard Anodizing), Class II (Dyed). If an AR were treated with Type III, Class I anodizing, it would still be just as tough. The only difference is the metal would be a dull metallic grey/bronze or grey/black.

    Applying Cerracoat over the anodizing adds another layer of protection. Cerracoat can be formulated to aid in heat dissipation, or to insulate, according to need. For example, applying Ceracoat for heat dissipation to the exterior of a rifle barrel would aid in cooling. Insulating Cerracoat applied to the headers of a car engine would keep more heat inside the header, improving exhaust flow and reducing underhood temps

    For additional reading about anodizing-
    http://www.anodizing.org/Anodizing/w...anodizing.html
    http://www.anodizeusa.com/anodizing-...-hard-coat.php
    http://www.arrowcryogenics.com/hard-...-anodizing.htm


    This ^^^

    Anodizing (oxide) grows in 2 directions.. From the surface up and the surface down... Hard coat anodize is about .0025" thick above the surface and .0025" below the surface. Precision reamed holes in machined parts have to be reamed "big" to allow for anodizing into tolerance. ( Lower receiver pivot pin and takedown pin holes come to mind )

  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blak1508 View Post
    Maybe my OCD is better than your DCO I mean that in terms of having my rail match the accented color, even if its not the same exact color that's ok as long as it is closer to what I have invisioned it too look like, my wife also works in fashion at QVC, so I damn well better have it match when I give it to her or I will have to tell her about my sudden case of color blind eyes.
    CDO- It needs to be alphabetized.

    I didn't know this was for your wife- that's a horse of a different color. In that case, yes- paint the rail.

    PS- While my previous answer was based on common sense, I was also trying to make it humorous. Sometimes I miss my mark. But I will address the pros & cons-

    CON- MarkM will be sure to come along to pronounce the whole thing ghey

    PRO- You won't have to fess up to being color blind and color matching the rifle is much easier than picking out drapes for the Dog House no matter what MarkM says
    Last edited by MistWolf; 07-06-13 at 23:20.
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

    http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n289/SgtSongDog/AR%20Carbine/DSC_0114.jpg
    I am American

  7. #77
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    Never mind-
    Last edited by Blak1508; 08-16-13 at 20:16.


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  8. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
    Now that receivers are avaliable in anodized black, tan, and OD, and soon to be multicam, I see no reason to own a gun that is painted
    In my humble opinion, I agree with this.

    I had my M&P slide "painted" with Gunkote (same as Cerakote) and am NOT happy with the results. The paint itself is glossier than the Melonite was and I just don't think it looks as good.

    This is just over a year of use in a Kydex holster. It really is much worse in person (the glare hides a lot of wear). However, this IS a "duty" gun so wear is to be expected. I just didn't think there would be so much, so fast.






  9. #79
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    GUNKOTE

    PYZIK, Sorry to see that. We recently closed our shop due to the AHCA taxes we would be facing in 2013. But I did a lot of coatings, Duracoat, Gunkote, cerecoat and contracted out parkerizing and anodizing.
    I have not found the magic coating for holster wear. What I did find a way to combat holster wear a little longer. I would parkerize the slide and then gunkote over it and increase curing temp to 400 degrees.
    Just some info should you go that route again.

  10. #80
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    ...............
    Last edited by ZINCOGNITO; 08-16-13 at 21:24.
    NAVY

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