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Thread: Broken Allen Bit in Buckmark Barrel Screw

  1. #1
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    Broken Allen Bit in Buckmark Barrel Screw

    So I just got a brand new Buckmark last week, and I was going to put on a tactical solutions barrel on it before I shot it for the first time. I went to remove the barrel screw and it didn't want to budge (why does browning put these on so crazy tight?). I finally thought that I got it, but the wrench started turning in the hole. So next I found next size bigger allan (3mm) and lightly tapped it in with a hammer.... the allen bit broke off in the screw. After looking closer at it, I can see that the set screw is cracked in 3 places. But I can't get the bit out. You can't drill it because the barrel is too close. I have a TIG welder and I thought about trying to weld a small nut onto it, but I don't want to risk damaging the gun. The bit is only sticking up maybe 1/16" of an inch, so there isn't much to grab onto. Any ideas?




  2. #2
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    I'd tap the bolt/wrench with a hammer a few times then cut a slot in the allen wrench with a dremmel and a cut off wheel or hack saw if there is room. Heat the bolt and using a screw driver try to back the bolt out.

  3. #3
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    I would call Browning first an see what they could or would do . You could also try to JB Weld another allen wrench to the broken bit. If all else fails a tool and die or machine shop with an EDM type machine should be able to get it out.
    Last edited by Biggy; 08-17-12 at 11:25.

  4. #4
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    They do not use metric fasteners on these.
    They do use a very strong thread locking compound.
    You may want to send it back to Browning and say - "oops"
    They might help you out.

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    I would cut a slot in it with a dremel as TWR suggested.

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    An EDM is the best bet.
    Sinking a new slightly larger hex into what's left of that setscrew will heat the screw enough to break the loctite free.
    Then the screw will come right out with the proper sized bit.
    Randall Rausch
    AR15 Barrel Guru
    California Precision Rifle Club founding member

  7. #7
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    I tried a lot of different things, and none of them worked. It looks like I will probably have to send it back to Browning.

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    Well good news. I fixed it! I ground out the stuck bit, went and shot the gun some more, after that I noticed that the barrel was slightly loose. I ground out more of the set screw, and then the back part of the set screw broke off (it has a tapered end). After that I was able to remove the barrel and I tried using a extractor bit, but the screw wouldn't budge (tried heat and an impact). I put it in the drill press and I kept drilling it out one size larger until I could run a tap through it. The only thing that I am worried about is the threads don't seem at tight as they should be, but it might just be in my head. I am going to go shoot it a few times... and see how it handles it. I am not sure how this screw was stuck in there so good from the factory... but something must have been messed up. The only time I have seen things get stuck like this is from being heated up before tightening down.

    Trying to extract the set screw


    Drilled out


    Taping it. These are the only pieces of the screw I ever saw. I was starting to wonder if there was actually a screw with threads in there.


    The whole reason I went through all of this... so I could put my tactical solutions barrel on it. And soon my YHM .22 suppressor once the paperwork clears .

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilencedShooster View Post
    Well good news. I fixed it! I ground out the stuck bit, went and shot the gun some more, after that I noticed that the barrel was slightly loose. I ground out more of the set screw, and then the back part of the set screw broke off (it has a tapered end). After that I was able to remove the barrel and I tried using a extractor bit, but the screw wouldn't budge (tried heat and an impact). I put it in the drill press and I kept drilling it out one size larger until I could run a tap through it. The only thing that I am worried about is the threads don't seem at tight as they should be, but it might just be in my head. I am going to go shoot it a few times... and see how it handles it. I am not sure how this screw was stuck in there so good from the factory... but something must have been messed up. The only time I have seen things get stuck like this is from being heated up before tightening down.

    Trying to extract the set screw


    Drilled out


    Taping it. These are the only pieces of the screw I ever saw. I was starting to wonder if there was actually a screw with threads in there.


    The whole reason I went through all of this... so I could put my tactical solutions barrel on it. And soon my YHM .22 suppressor once the paperwork clears .
    I removed the barrels from two new Buckmarks last week, and I also busted an allen wrench off as you did, and this was after reading this thread. Fortunately the broken part came out easy on mine. What I learned was : 1. They use a pretty strong thread locker. 2. Put the pistol in a padded vice, use a short and "hardened" allen bit in an extension on a ratchet. 3. After using Kroil, acetone, liquid wrench and other industrial solvents without success in breaking the bond, heat in the form of a soldering iron in the head of the screw and a hair dryer blowing on the frame around the bolt did the trick, but barely. You have to use "enough" heat to break the bond of the thread locker.
    Last edited by Biggy; 09-04-12 at 12:18.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biggy View Post
    I removed the barrels from two new Buckmarks last week, and I also busted an allen wrench off as you did, and this was after reading this thread. Fortunately the broken part came out easy on mine. What I learned was : 1. They use a pretty strong thread locker. 2. Put the pistol in a padded vice, use a short and hardened allen bit in an extension on a ratchet. 3. After using Kroil, acetone, liquid wrench and other industrial solvents without success in breaking the bond, heat in the form of a soldering iron in the head of the screw and a hair dryer blowing on the frame around the bolt did the trick, but barely. You have to use "enough" heat to break the bond of the thread locker.
    I am glad your outcome was better than mine. I heated mine up nice and hot with a mini torch to try to break the loctite "bond" with no luck on mine.

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