My Search For a New RDS (and Questions)

[Whitebrad25]

My Aimpoint PRO is lower 1/3 in its Aimpoint QRP mount.

[Whitebrad25]

I don't like the weight of the PRO in its Aimpoint QRP mount though. This is why I have a micro T1 in a Larue mount on the way. Otherwise, it has been fantastic and is a great quality optic.

[Tigereye]

I think you should buy the Eo. I have a XPS 2.0 on a Larue mount and have had no issues with it. I also have a PRO on the included mount and no issues with it. I have found through training and drills that I shoot the PRO slightly faster than the EO (this was a surprise). I have considered replacing the EO with the H-1 for the past few months. I finally got to test a friend's T-1 and found that I actually prefer the 30mm tube of the PRO. So, I'm selling the EO to a friend and buying another PRO. It also helps that I only need to store 1 battery type.
I didn't have any problems with either optic but found a personal preference. If you can't test drive them, buy the EO and call it done.
Eric

[The_War_Wagon]

H-1/T-1 - light, and easier on astigmatic eyes! Better re-sale value too, if you ever get tired of it.

[polymorpheous]

As mentioned before, I see a blob through my H-1.
It's the older 4moa model.
Are people getting these blobs through the newer 2moa H-1 and T-1's?

[Singlestack Wonder]

Have you put an H1 and ML3 side by side (literally) and viewed objects 25, 50, and 100 yards away while moving your eye all around the field of view of each sight?

Until you do, your comments are worthless.

Yes. Been using Aimpoints since 1994 starting with the Aimpoint Comp. I've owned all iterations (i.e. Comp, ML2, ML3, M4s, and both Micro's). During practice, competitions, tactical classes, etc., I've shot from every position including upside down. I've never seen a parallax issue with the Micro's. No matter if the dot was touching the edge of the lens, wherever the dot was on the target, that was the POI.

YMMV

[PrevailFI]

I've been following this largely un-helpful, highly partisan thread because I have been in the market for a new optic also.

I have always been an Eotech fan. I've had/ have several going back to the days before the rubberized buttons. One I recently sold was about 12 years old and working fine. It had been through 3 carbine classes, including one week-long LE Instructor course requiring 2K rounds.

I like the Eotech's big, wide viewing window and lack of "stuff" in my lateral view, both eyes open or not. I understand folks whose service experience forged a trust and appreciation for the Aimpoint, but my time toting a rifle for Uncle was in the late 70's and early 80's - strictly irons.

I looked at all the same choices the OP mentioned, and also considered a low power variable (use a Burris MTAC for 3Gun).

In the end, I went with weight savings and to give something new (to me) a try. I got a great combo deal from G&R which allowed me to get a T1 and ADM QD mount for less than the T1 alone at several retailers, including my local GT Distributors. Kudos to them on the (free) shipping as well. I had just started to look for an emailed shipping notification when the darn thing arrived on my doorstep!

I'll post my thoughts after I wring this thing out a bit.

[Hmac]

g new (to me) a try. I got a great combo deal from G&R which allowed me to get a T1 and ADM QD mount for less than the T1 alone at several retailers, including my local GT Distributors.

Did you buy a 2MOA T-1, or the 4MOA T-1?

[kmrtnsn]

Have you put an H1 and ML3 side by side (literally) and viewed objects 25, 50, and 100 yards away while moving your eye all around the field of view of each sight?

Until you do, your comments are worthless.

Sounds like you're using both optics with one eye, like it is a scope, instead of with both eyes open, as intended. You can make your hits with any RDS, be that Eotech or Aimpoint, with the objective lens/glass completely taped over if using the correct technique.

[JSantoro]

Afraid I will always regret not getting the T1 if I go this route.

It's the same with H1/T1, or any of the Comp-series, in terms of selecting an M vs. ML model...

Unless you 1) intend to use image-intensification equipment, and/or 2) intend to engage in waterborne operations where you'll be submerged below 15' long enough to fin around a bit....

...you'll never note any difference other than the H1 being less $$$.

Anybody that tells you that the no-longer-produced R1 or the H1 is somehow less durable than a T1 is somebody that lacks an understanding of the actual differences between models, and is instead relying on something they conjured in their mind after reading a Clancy novel after downing a whole bottle of Nyquil.