If you have an electric drill you can zip the crimps off with the Hornady primer pocket reamer. It'll save you 70-80 bucks. I run that in favor of the Swager.
If you have an electric drill you can zip the crimps off with the Hornady primer pocket reamer. It'll save you 70-80 bucks. I run that in favor of the Swager.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
I agree on the savings aspect but just prefer super swage and find it worth the expense. I tried the reamer drill process and didn't like dealing with handling the brass to in one hand and the drill in the other nor do I like having to clean up the chips.
http://youtu.be/B9VLAeFwnq4
Swaging brass is a fill in project for me, the swager is always on my bench and I always have brass available already sized, trimmed and lubec leaned off ready to swage. I do it 10-15 at a time to kill time here and there. To each his own...
Last edited by Boxerglocker; 09-05-12 at 14:24.
Using a 550 and single stage Rock Chucker to process 223 is my method-all brass work is done first--the 550 powder msr is fine with ball powder--there is 0 reason not to use W748 or H335 type powders
right now I just started 8# of W846..for resizing I use RCBS WATER
soliuble lube-then I wash it off with a hose and dry on a towel--
hot sun in TX makes it fast--electric drill and Lee set up using their case holder and wooden ball holding trimmer,,then cricket in and outside of case-then vibe clean-ready to run in the 550--why I trim
every case is I use the Lee Factory crimp die on last station--get several primer tubes for your 550--loads of 223 laying around my shelves--I bought 2500 rounds of new brass a few years back and wish I had bought more !!
funny all my H335 loads are very accurate-NO FLASH-I have that funny looking thing up front that elemanates something--W748 Temp sensitive-where do you live--North Pole-W846 is one of the civie powders that is treated like WC748 MILITARY GRADE that controls heat and flash
Last edited by E4for2; 09-05-12 at 21:44. Reason: # correction
I have to agree my 55g H335 load is super accurate out of my rifles. I did a urban precision rifle class a while back, part of it was a low light / night shoot and it didn't appear to flash any more than the other participant loads. My two rifles have a BC 1.0 and Rainier XTC compensator installed.
The Possome left a lot of chatter on the case mouth. It worked and kept brass in the rotation, but it was a little crude. Some guys mess with the rpm on the drill and get it to a minimal amount.
Once you chamfer and debur the brass isn't too bad. But the index on the thing is so generous that you can cut case mouths pretty untrue. And I'd get a lot of variation in OAL on the brass.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
I use both of the powders. Here's what I found on flash....
I was goofing around with my 11.5 SBR and put this stupid CAV Comp on it. I had seen a guy running one in class and it was basically a flash enhancer.... I had to get one.
So I ran my medium H335 loads and hot W748 loads through it. At dusk the H335 was cool hollywood flash. but the hotter 748 load didn't flash at all.
I've kinda gotten away from ball powder just because of the harder carbon fouling.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
Here's my way. It is "A way", not "the way":
(1) Deprime on SS
(2) Tumble clean
(3) Lube in ziploc bag
(4) Resize and trim (station #1), and then run necks over expander ball (station #3) on separate toolhead
(5) Prime cases with hand held primer. Store in dry container for later loading day.
(6) On 2nd toolhead, bell mouths (Lee Univer Flaring Die), charge cases, seat bullets and crimp on stations 1-4.
I started out a conmbo of a Lee Challenger SS and a Lee Turret Press and upgraded to a Dillon BL/AT500 which I then added my Lee powder dispensing stuff too. I also purchased the Dillion 1200 Trimmer system; kind of a pain to get set up initially, but once dialed in, I'm very happy with it.
If you want to crank ot 200 or more at a sitting, I'm definitely in the progressive camp.
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