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Thread: Colt 6920 Jammed

  1. #21
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    Instead of mortaring you can try inserting something (such as your finger) in front of the BCG and pulling to the rear; maybe not right after firing a full mag, but at least now that the weapon has cooled down.

    And +1 on lubing that sucker.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by skullworks View Post
    Instead of mortaring you can try inserting something (such as your finger) in front of the BCG and pulling to the rear; maybe not right after firing a full mag, but at least now that the weapon has cooled down.

    And +1 on lubing that sucker.
    Bolt override tool, right? The Leatherman MUT has one, idk if you do or not.

  3. #23
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    Sure, a $100+ Leatherman MUT will do the job just as well as the butt-end of a piece of spent brass or a cartridge...

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddlerocker View Post
    Ive had 1 jam in 2 thousand rounds of Brown Bear and WPA at the range.
    Ill take that for $160 savings

    Steel cased ammo has its place in my opinion.
    No its not all i shoot, and not what I would use when things matter.
    I understand that. But when the equation is 6920 + Brown Bear. There's NO DOUBT where the problem is.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  5. #25
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    Public SVC Announcement!

    1. Don't mix brass and non-brass ammo without a serious cleaning between them.
    2. You have a Colt. Don't shoot crap ammo through it!
    3. Lubricate your weapon!
    4. Jam goes on bread! It is called a MALFUNCTION!




    C4
    Last edited by C4IGrant; 09-13-12 at 10:23.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by skullworks View Post
    Sure, a $100+ Leatherman MUT will do the job just as well as the butt-end of a piece of spent brass or a cartridge...
    Well yeah not saying that someone would have to buy one to do it, I was more just confirming that is the operation and malfunction that the tool was designed for (at least in part).
    Last edited by Wake27; 09-13-12 at 15:24.

  7. #27
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    While re-lubing, intorduce a patch of lube to the surfaces of the chamber, when using steel-case. Especially if going from steel to brass, but it's simpler to just do it any time steel-case is being used.

    Steel obdurates differently (steel-case proponents, please note that I didn't say better/worse, but differently....), and more smut can get into the chamber.

    A skim of lube can help with that, so if you generally run a lube patch through the bore, anyway, spin it along the length of and around in the chamber for a rotation or 5 before sending it all the way through the barrel. I've lost track of how many times I've seen intermittent-to-chronic stuck round/case problems with steel ammo go away (the "given" in that equation being a known-good chamber, which yours should be...) with the simple addition of lube...EDIT: fluid, NOT grease!...to that particular spot.

    The chances of the round going off from the act of mortaring it out fall in the realm of "possible" in the sense that something that occurs .00016283% of the time fits the description of "possible."
    Contractor scum, AAV

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wake27 View Post
    ..I was more just confirming that is operation and malfunction that the tool was designed for (at least in part).
    Ah yes, correct.

  9. #29
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    Well, that was easy. All done, cleaned and well lubed before breakfast. One bang on the floor with the stock while pulling on the charging handle, and the round popped right out. The bullet had one scratch on it and no markings at all on the case. I’m sure it will go bang next time.

    I could see nothing anywhere that looked abnormal. No markings on the bolt. The chamber, of course, was filthy. I’ve gone between brass and steel without cleaning between the brass and steel quite a bit for over 800 rounds and never had a problem. I’m well aware of cleaning the chamber after shooting steel and before shooting brass. I haven’t heard of shooting brass then steel without cleaning as a problem before. This is the only gun I have that I do this with. I have a Mini-14 and I will not shoot steel thru it. All my research before I bought this gun seemed to say shooting steel was ok, and it is a lot cheaper.

    I guess one question that still puzzles me is that I was able to pull the trigger and get a click when the gun was obviously not in battery. I’m assuming that meant that the hammer fell on the firing pin as it felt and sounded just like dry firing the gun. I did not think that was supposed to happen when the gun was not fully in battery. What kept the round from going off out of battery?
    Gary
    Will Fly for Food... and more Ammo

    Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency.

  10. #30
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    The hammer just hit the rear edge of the lower skid on the bolt carrier. The firing pin can't even reach the primer until the bolt carrier is fully forward, and therefore the bolt is locked.
    Last edited by everyusernametaken; 09-13-12 at 13:36.

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