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Thread: Mounting things more to the rear or front of the rail slot?

  1. #21
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    Push forward in the slot. If it ends up in the back of the slot, it's because it's loose enough to rebound back after the initial recoil impulse. The greatest force will want to move anything on a rail towards the front of the slot under recoil. The only thing that I put to the back of the slot is hand stops/VFGs.
    Duane Liptak, Jr.
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    Magpul Industries

    info@magpulcore.com

    This is a personal account linked to a personal e-mail. Company affiliation and titles are provided purely for transparency requirements of the host site. Although factual company information may be shared through this account, any opinions expressed are solely those of the account holder, and not necessarily those of Magpul Industries or subsidiaries.

  2. #22
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    The "way it was always done" of pushing the mount forward probably has been passed down from before scopes were commonly mounted on semi autos.

    I believe the counter recoil of the bolt carrier hitting the barrel extension may be sharper than the firing recoil and more likely to move something.

  3. #23
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    Saw an episode of Tac TV this week where LAV was visiting Aimpoint. They showed how to mount an Aimpoint and specifically stated to mount it forward.

  4. #24
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    Todd, I will say that I come from a long time bolt rifle stance on mounting the optic and with a lack of a gas gun counter recoil phase I may indeed be a bit old school in my thinking here however I tend to believe the same situation holds true for this platform in general. This is not scientific on my part by any means but I might agree with you on a rifle length or suppressed weapon but in general I think the counter recoil phase is less jarring than the initial recoil.

  5. #25
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    It scares me a touch, how much time you spend yanking my thoughts out of my head....

    That's precisely why I don't automatically discount the idea that pushing to the back may be viable....configuration-specific. I have to admit to mentally cocking an eyebrow at it, though, until somebody can put some numbers to it and under different configurations, as compared to a baseline.

    I have to fall back on observations derived from all the time testing optics and their mounts on belt-feds, SAWs in particular, where you had all the stuff usually going on with any AR-pattern PLUS full-auto PLUS the likliehood that the fed-tray cover wasn't the most snug of things PLUS etc., etc...... Those things are all over the place, and push-forward always worked unless there was something upgefucht with either the rail or the mount.
    Contractor scum, AAV

  6. #26
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    Well, Boys. It sounds like we simply need to steal the mentality of the precision bolt gunners and BED EVERYTHING on the gun.

    It's our only hope.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  7. #27
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    Careful.. Somebody will surely epoxy one on.. Ron
    Ain't no pockets on a shroud..

  8. #28
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    I was thinking JB Weld, but either way.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  9. #29
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    Silver solder is the way to go....problem solved.

  10. #30
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    Just for the sake of discussion, I had started a thread a while back on replacing the thumb nuts with regular hex nuts:

    https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=112795

    Before I ran across the loosening issue, I was thinking of replacing the big knob on the LMT rear BUIS with a hex nut.

    Since a lot of people are of the opinion that the knobs are piss-poor anyway, it kind of relates to what we're talking about here.

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