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Thread: Crack in my new lower (pics)

  1. #31
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    I have assembled about 10 LPKs on Areo Precision lowers. I can tell you that they are notorious for having the finish chip off during installation. My advice is to just shoot it if it doesn't look like the ear is going to break off. Proper tools not only keep the chips, scratches and damage away, they also speed up the assembly process.

    A question to the masses here.....
    Do you install the bolt catch retaining pin from the front or the rear of the receiver?
    I have tried both ways and I prefer to tilt the receiver upward, place a cleaning patch between the receiver and my pin starter, and hammer the pin in from the front.
    "Perfect Practice Makes Perfect"
    "There are 550 million firearms on this planet. That's one firearm for every 12 people. The question is... How do we arm the other 11?" Lord of War.
    "I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them." Thomas Jefferson

  2. #32
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    Did mine from the front

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  3. #33
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    Ok guys, thank you for the replies. Tonight (after agonizing over this all day long at the office), I tried DJSkinny's advice and picked at it with a fingernail and even tried a toothpick. Nothing flaked off, and the "edge" is definitely distinct enough to abrade the wood of the toothpick. I hope those of you who think it's just a minor cosmetic defect in the forging are correct, but I can't tell for sure. I highly doubt I would have any recourse in getting a replacement lower as my assembly technique would certainly be blamed for the problem. Fortunately this lower is intended for the range, but I just ordered a set of roll pin punches (Amazon) and a set of starter punches (Brownell's) to help me out the next time I do this.

    MistWolf: As far as the Vise Grip idea goes, I got the idea from the Build it Yourself section on Arfcom where it was presented as an alternative to the "scratch prone" method of using punches. Clearly this was not the right way to do things. Does anybody think the simple fact that I used a flat-ended pin punch instead of a roll-pin punch caused the problem? If the surface crack occurred during the driving-in of the roll pin, I'm not sure how using a proper roll-pin punch would have helped the situation. Maybe the crack happened when I was messing with the taped-up vise grips.

    ICANHITHIMMAN: How could this damage be repaired? Is it even worth pursuing? This lower was intended for the range. Certainly any repair attempt would require refinishing. I'm not going to go hacking at it with my Dremel.

    TangoSauce: I did coat the pin with oil before I tapped it in with the punch. Tonight I went through my spare parts bin where I found a brand-new bolt catch roll pin from Riflegear. I compared it to the bolt catch roll pin from another new PSA LPK I have, and I found that the PSA roll pin appeared to be slightly larger in diameter. I can't say that this had anything do with my problem, but the Riflegear pin appeared to be "neater" and better made. Interesting.

    So, I intend go ahead and shoot this rifle at the range and hope it's OK. Should the bolt catch ear fail, I might put a dedicated 22LR upper on it. I'll never try another bolt catch without the proper punches, that's for sure. If anybody has any more advice or suggestions, I'd appreciate it. Thanks again.

    Mule

  4. #34
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    I don't believe it. I just looked through photos of my lower that I took the day I brought it home. BEFORE I ever installed an LPK. In the attached photo, I'm pretty sure I can see the crack/flaw! If I'm right, then it really is a forging defect that I should have caught in the store. This was my first stripped lower so I didn't really know what I was looking for and I guess I just missed it.

    I spoke with the staff at SA&A today and they asked me to bring it in so they could have a look at it. I'll do that later this week. With any luck, I can get in contact with Aero Precision (a local company) and hopefully get a replacement.

    What do you guys think? Am I seeing things?

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mule81 View Post
    I don't believe it. I just looked through photos of my lower that I took the day I brought it home. BEFORE I ever installed an LPK. In the attached photo, I'm pretty sure I can see the crack/flaw! If I'm right, then it really is a forging defect that I should have caught in the store. This was my first stripped lower so I didn't really know what I was looking for and I guess I just missed it.

    I spoke with the staff at SA&A today and they asked me to bring it in so they could have a look at it. I'll do that later this week. With any luck, I can get in contact with Aero Precision (a local company) and hopefully get a replacement.

    What do you guys think? Am I seeing things?
    Looks like a flaw to me. None of my lowers (including the SA&A lower I just picked up yesterday have that). Make sure to take your pictures with when you go down there... Good luck!

    Justin
    “If you are going through hell, keep going.”
    -Winston Churchill

  6. #36
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    To repair it would take the work of some one skilled with welding aluminum. Its not hard and a lot of guys can do it, but to do a good job is another story. Where most guys fail is in surface prep aluminum has to be clean and I mean real clean or you end up with a bad weld. Refinishing would be required but with so many options out there is relay quite easy. Heat treating is a non issue in this case due to the parts intended purpose.

    If It were mine I would grind out a small area and fill it back in with weld. But if it is not effecting anything best leave it be. If it really bothers you hit it with some sand paper to flatten it out and add Krylon. Painted guns look better anyhow.
    "After I shot myself, my training took over and I called my parents..." Texas Grebner

    "Take me with a grain of salt, my sarcasm does not relate well over the internet"

    Jonathan Morehouse

  7. #37
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    They way to cure this problem is as follows:

    1. Throw the cracked lower away with the PSA LPK.
    2. Buy the proper tools.
    3. Buy a quality LPK (GandRTactical ones, LMT, Colt, etc.).
    4. Write "I ****ed up" 10 times with your own blood.
    5. Order a new lower.
    6. Assemble properly and consider this a lesson learned.

  8. #38
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    I would ignore it and drive on.

    It is not in an area where it has any structural effect.

    I am confident you will never have an issue with it.
    My brother saw Deliverance and bought a Bow. I saw Deliverance and bought an AR-15.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 500grains View Post
    They way to cure this problem is as follows:

    1. Throw the cracked lower away with the PSA LPK.
    2. Buy the proper tools.
    3. Buy a quality LPK (GandRTactical ones, LMT, Colt, etc.).
    4. Write "I ****ed up" 10 times with your own blood.
    5. Order a new lower.
    6. Assemble properly and consider this a lesson learned.
    Funny.

    OP, it sucks that your lower isn't coming together as you hoped. BCM prebuilts aren't that much more expensive but at least you can choose to order one with or without a blemish!
    Last edited by Moltke; 10-04-12 at 11:26.
    Ken Bloxton
    Skill > Gear

  10. #40
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    Problem solved! I called AeroPrecision and spoke with their quality control about the defect. They called SA&A and spoke to them on my behalf. A few minutes later Aero called me back and said that if I just brought the lower down to SA&A they would exchange it for me. As it turned out, SA&A did not have any more Aero lowers in stock and didn't seem to know when they would get more. I accepted a new (Aero made) lower with the SA&A rollmark on it in exchange. Charlie at AeroPrecision and Chester at SA&A were both extremely helpful in getting this resolved. I'm very pleased with the customer service I got and will definitely do business with these guys again.

    I installed my LPK into the new SA&A lower tonight using my new set of proper roll pin punches and a little bit of grease on the pins to help things along. It worked out great... having the right tools made a big difference. Thanks to all for your help.

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