Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 31

Thread: Rear receiver pin backing out

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    AZ-Waging jihad against crappy AR's.
    Posts
    24,902
    Feedback Score
    104 (100%)
    My bad. I thought they had grips with an additional hole and remember reading something about people making some kind of modification.

    Quote Originally Posted by kdcgrohl View Post
    What? The detent and spring for the SR15 Rifles *with the qd cups in the receiver* have the oddly placed detent hole as noted. You do NOT need to drill any holes in the grip. The problem with the MIAD is there already a hole there, and the SR15 requires a flat spot, like on an A2 to hold the pin and spring in place.

    The pin and spring are standard.

    One option you have with these rifles it to tap the detent hole 4/40 machine thread and install an 1/8" set screw. Then, you'll need to trim roughly one coil off the detent spring to account for the length of the set screw. If you're interested in doing this, thus alleviating any further grip swap headaches, do a search here for a post by KevinB of KAC on the subject, or PM me. I'm no SME, but I've done this to a couple of KAC lowers and it is the preferred method of using a MIAD.

    ETA II:KevinB post on this issue: https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.php?p=733229&postcount=1

    ETA: pic of MIAD on SR15 lower.



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/

    Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/

    M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141

    Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2,681
    Feedback Score
    16 (100%)
    The only reason you would need to install the set screw is if you planned on changing the grip panels of the MIAD often, or removing the grip. It isn't necassary and not worth the trouble IMO.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    276
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Rear pin

    If you tap for a set screw, be gentle when you do it. The tap is small and if you break it you won't be able to put the spring and detent in without a huge amount of fiddle work. Also you might need to cut some of the spring to get everything to fit properly.
    I tap the hole on every lower I assemble, it makes life so much easier.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Poquoson, VA
    Posts
    534
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    to the original op:
    If you have never tapped before, read up on it first. As someone said, you don't want to screw up your receiver. Main points are to use cutting oil to reduce friction, and do it in small steps. You are cutting new threads and the aluminum has to have a place to go, or it will jam up the tap. Go half a turn clockwise, then back off the tap (counter clockwise) a little, repeat until its done. Flush out the pieces, clean up and you are done. Hold tap steady so threads are straight.

    Mark

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    11
    Feedback Score
    0
    So if I use oil, have patience and only tap a quarter turn or so a time and then back out to clean the threads, I should be alright? Are the taps "self centering" at all? Or do I have to make sure to hold the tap perfectly center over the hole? I imagine that the taps will want to go in center, as long as I do my part.

    I'm willing to try this method out, as long as there is not a high chance for failure here. It sounds easy enough, but I also don't want to ruin a KAC lower doing it.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Poquoson, VA
    Posts
    534
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    If you do it that way you will be fine. If you meet a lot of resistance, just back off a bit and start again. Not rocket science, just common sense. The flutes in the tap are there so metal pieces have a place to go. Just cut the threads deep enough so set screw is below surface when tight.
    Clean out real well and pat yourself on the back!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    27,214
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)
    I had this happen on a buddy's gun. I quick fixed the BS with the installation of a shim/plate.

    Likely the most optimal solution would be to bed the stupid grip.

    This is one of the downsides to aftermarket circus scenarios.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    59
    Feedback Score
    0
    I've seen this with one of the .308 lowers and the MIAD grip. My solution was to fill the corresponding area in the grip with a two part epoxy to make the surface to hold the spring. Always modify the cheapest part first was the idea.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    27,214
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Ando View Post
    I've seen this with one of the .308 lowers and the MIAD grip. My solution was to fill the corresponding area in the grip with a two part epoxy to make the surface to hold the spring. Always modify the cheapest part first was the idea.
    Exactly... JB Weld or MarineTex would work too.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8
    Feedback Score
    0
    I just went through this. Nobody has mentioned looking at the owner's manual supplied with the rifle. I looked at the schematic before I picked up the screwdriver. It showed 1 spring under the pistol grip and 1 under the receiver plate. Upon removal of the pistol grip, 2 springs revealed themselves. I managed to capture the spring I was expecting and lost the other. I went back to the owner's manual and realized the rifle depicted was the older model without the QD cups. I called KAC and they sent me a new spring and pin at no charge. Thanks! But, the owner's manual needs to be updated. And incorporate the set screw solution into production. The BCM Gunfighter Mod 0 looks great on the rifle, BTW.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •