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Thread: The URX II rifle length Build Please help!

  1. #1
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    The URX II rifle length Build Please help!

    Will the URX II rifle length rail work with a noveske 14.5 (barrelhttp://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=b-145-556&cat=158&page=1&search=&since=&status=&title=)? Or will the front sight on the URX II get in the way of the gas block?

    So far here is the build

    Vltor modular upper with bolt assist and shell deflector
    noveske afghan 14.5 barrel
    surefire fh556-212A flash hider(makes it overall 16")
    BCM full auto bolt carrier or daniel defense full auto bolt carrier
    and hopefully the URX II rifle length

  2. #2
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    It'll fit.
    Chief Armorer for Elite Shooting Sports in Manassas VA
    Chief Armorer for Corp Arms (FFL 07-08/SOT 02)

  3. #3
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    It fits.



    Noveske 14.5" Afghan w/ pinned gas block
    Vltor MUR
    KAC URX-II Rifle Length
    KAC 200-600m Micro Rear BUIS
    Colt M16 BCG
    LMT blackened gas tube
    BCM Gunfighter CH, new version
    Extended A2 Flash Hider, pinned and welded

    I replaced the two slotted screws which came with the rail with four low head allen screws I got from McMaster-Carr. Made the rail feel much more solid. I also removed the heatshield.
    Last edited by bp7178; 11-26-12 at 15:00.

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    Thank you... Also did you install the URX II or did you have someone do it?

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    I built it, but it took some effort.

    The lower, upper and rail are all Cerakoted in Graphite Black. As it turns out, locktite and Cerakote don't really play nice together.

    The problem I had was that the loctite would never set up between the receiver and rail. Intrestingly, I didn't have this problem with Burnt Bronze coated parts.

    Loctite cures in part due to an anerobic reaction, ie its in a closed space w/o oxygen, and due to the material it is being applied on. The final strength of loctite is very much dependant on the material. Black oxide steel results in a bond much stronger than stainless steel.

    As a workaround, and to assure full working strength, there are loctite primers which you apply before the loctite and assembly.

    I ended up buying a primerless version of loctite from Graingers; it had the primer already mixed in. MUCH stronger bond. Within minutes you knew it was working, whereas the next morning I could disassemble the parts with ease when using the standard blue loctite.

    Its worth noting I just used standard blue loctite on the screws for the lower section of the rail. I'm guessing as the screws are black oxide, that componet of the chemical reaction is there to get the product to cure. But when screwing a cerakoted rail onto a cerakoted receiver, the locitite never cured.

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    Thank you again! Hmmm it sounds like it was pretty tuff... would you reccomend sending it to get it done or would you do it yourself again? Also do other sights work with the flip up sight on the rail.... for instance would you be able to run a troy in the back or does it not line up with the sight on the handgaurd?

    But im anyways going to run the knights armament back sight.

    Quote Originally Posted by bp7178 View Post

    How much did everything cost rail,vltor upper,KAC back sight,the wrenches,locktight...Etc...

  7. #7
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    I've only used KAC rear sights with my uppers that had KAC rails or used KAC front sights. I don't see why there would be a problem with the Troys.

    I spent a lot. I shopped around, buying stuff as I came across it for a good price, but it wasn't cheap.

    I built mine because I wanted absolute control of how the project came out and I didn't want to wait around for it to get done. The only thing I had help with was the welding. You're going to spend more money on tools than you are in paying someone to build it, and depending on your experience level in building uppers, you may or may not have a better product in your hands when you're done.

    If you're looking for a perfectly mated upper and rail I would suggest contacting Marvin Pitts for the work. Very highly respected gunsmith.


    Marvin Pitts
    nefariousarms@live.com
    Last edited by bp7178; 11-27-12 at 16:33.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bp7178 View Post
    It fits.



    I replaced the two slotted screws which came with the rail with four low head allen screws I got from McMaster-Carr. Made the rail feel much more solid. I also removed the heatshield.
    BP, would you happen to have the specs for the hex head rail screws or a link to them?

  9. #9
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    Here you go...

    Its McMaster-Carr part number 92220A181 for a box of 10. The size is 1/4-20 x1/4 and is a hex low head cap screw.

    http://www.mcmaster.com if you search the part numer from their website it will take you right to it.

  10. #10
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    OK! Thank you again... I think when i get all my parts im going to see if Marvin Pitts can build it. Do you by any cance know how much it would cost for something like that?

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