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Thread: When building your first AR - most common errors?

  1. #1
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    When building your first AR - most common errors?

    My situation-
    As soon as Vltor starts shipping A5 spring/buffer kits I will have every piece I need for my first build (mostly noveske/dd/vltor parts). I have all the tools, punches, blocks, vises, torque wrench, AR wrenches, etc to do the job. I am mechanically inclined (mech engineer with job shop, machining, metal fab background).

    My question-
    Are there any steps that I should seriously consider leaving to a gunsmith? In particular, staking the castle nut, affixing the barrel? I am completely comfortable with the LPK/TCG assembly, and the external parts (FF handguard, furniture, flash hider). Further, what should I look out for in general?

    One last thing- I do not have a heavy bench vise currently. I have a Panavise 301, securely mounted http://www.panavise.com/index.html?p...-eqskudatarq=2. Is this too small for the job?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tkglazie View Post
    My situation-
    As soon as Vltor starts shipping A5 spring/buffer kits I will have every piece I need for my first build (mostly noveske/dd/vltor parts). I have all the tools, punches, blocks, vises, torque wrench, AR wrenches, etc to do the job. I am mechanically inclined (mech engineer with job shop, machining, metal fab background).

    My question-
    Are there any steps that I should seriously consider leaving to a gunsmith? In particular, staking the castle nut, affixing the barrel? I am completely comfortable with the LPK/TCG assembly, and the external parts (FF handguard, furniture, flash hider). Further, what should I look out for in general?

    One last thing- I do not have a heavy bench vise currently. I have a Panavise 301, securely mounted http://www.panavise.com/index.html?p...-eqskudatarq=2. Is this too small for the job?

    Thanks in advance.
    Way too small for barrel nut install in my opinion.
    "I never learned from a man who agreed with me." Robert A. Heinlein

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    noted, thank you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tkglazie View Post
    noted, thank you.
    Should have wrote;

    To install the barrel nut, you're using ~50 +/- 20 ft/lb of torque. Nothing else on the install even needs a vise to be honest, the castle nut and flash hider can be installed or removed without one most of the time, but a vise certainly helps.
    "I never learned from a man who agreed with me." Robert A. Heinlein

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    Quote Originally Posted by Koshinn View Post
    Should have wrote;

    To install the barrel nut, you're using ~50 +/- 20 ft/lb of torque. Nothing else on the install even needs a vise to be honest, the castle nut and flash hider can be installed or removed without one most of the time, but a vise certainly helps.
    If I am only going to be building the one, or if I happen to get very lucky and land another stripped lower before it is too late, two, am I better off investing in a big enough vise, or taking the upper/barrel(s) to a local gunsmith?

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    Surely one of your friends has a solid bench mounted vice. It sounds like you should be fine with the caveat that you have researched the proper specs and techniques.

    One thing I recommend is greasing the RE threads when torquing the castle nut. I do not use a torque wrench but rather tighten as much as I can without fixing the lower in a vice. Stake the end plate using an auto punch and then touch up the stake marks with a touch up pen.

    Pretty much everything else has been documented.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tkglazie View Post
    If I am only going to be building the one, or if I happen to get very lucky and land another stripped lower before it is too late, two, am I better off investing in a big enough vise, or taking the upper/barrel(s) to a local gunsmith?
    Beg/borrow/steal a vise.

    If it's just one, you probably can take it to a local gunsmith for like $20 and 10 min of their time and equipment.

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    I like the auto punch idea. I have a nice Starrett center punch but am hesitant to use it to stake the castle nut, maybe an auto punch would be easier. Yes, I will research and triple check the specs and procedures before doing anything. I will definitely be treating the threads also. Nice tip about the touch up pen, thanks.

    I dont have much in the way of mechanically minded friends currently (I changed careers and no longer have machine shop or fab shop access). If it makes more sense to invest in a good vise, I certainly will take advantage of the excuse

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    Quote Originally Posted by Koshinn View Post
    Beg/borrow/steal a vise.

    If it's just one, you probably can take it to a local gunsmith for like $20 and 10 min of their time and equipment.
    I just hit send as you posted this. I guess it will come down to $ and time when it comes time to tighten up the barrel. If I can get it done reasonably quickly and locally, I light go that route, but if not, I guess i will beg/borrow or invest in the right tool.

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    First things first- DO NOT USE VISE GRIPS TO PRESS ANY PINS INTO PLACE NO MATTER WHAT YOUTUBE VIDEOS SHOW

    Torque and back off the barrel nut at least twice before final torque and torque it smoothly. You don't need to over torque it.

    Make sure the gas tube fits into the upper receiver cleanly. It should float in the hole and fit in the gas key of the BCG with no binding.

    Use a long punch to install the mag release pin. Protect the surrounding area with a few layers of masking tape.

    Be very careful installing the trigger guard. It's very easy to break off an ear installing the pin. Use a bit of lube and make sure the ear on the opposite side is fully supported. I used a C clamp


    A magnet can help with installing detent pins.

    I also used an Exacto blade to assist pushing them in place. I worked inside a clear baggie large enough to get my hands in to keep the pin from launching itself into the unknown when I slipped.

    Here is a link to the write up I did, with photos, on how to install the trigger
    http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=72111

    Take your time, don't rush and pay close attention to the details
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

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