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Thread: When building your first AR - most common errors?

  1. #21
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    Wow, was this thread ever a good idea. It is one thing to study up on proper the procedure, it is quite another to learn the little idiosyncrasies that make the process go smoothly.

    My LPK does include an MOE trigger guard so I will be ordering up the recommended Colt pin asap. While I am at it, are there any other pins or LPK parts that I should consider upgrading for ease of installation and/or fit an finish? My LPK is a PSA MOE kit, w/o TCG (if it ever shows up). I am using an ALG QMS trigger.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by thecolter View Post
    I'll second what wahoo95 said about lubricating the pins / holes prior to installation. It makes a world of difference when installing the roll pins. That said, the bolt catch roll pin sometimes is a PITA. I recommend using a roll-pin starter punch here as it really helps out and virtually negates the possibility of scratching your lower.

    Also, ensure to properly grease the barrel nut threads / receiver threads and where the barrel nut contacts to flat portion of the barrel extension (see picture below). A friend tried to install a barrel without adding any grease and was completely flustered as to why he could not line up the gas port without excessive torque.



    Take your time and use the proper tools.
    Well crap, I wish I had seen this a while back...

  3. #23
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    whether you are working on a car, gun, etc. the most common mistake is being in a rush. lots of us are busy as hell with far more work hours than free time.

    have a no stress, good period of time set aside.

    every scrape, lost little part, etc. i have messed upped happened when in a rush.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by yossarian42 View Post
    Mist just curious, what's wrong with using vice grips/pliers for installing roll pins? I've never done it that way but thought it looked like a good idea.
    AKDoug explains why very well
    Quote Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
    You have absolutely no control of what happens when the vice grips cam over, they don't squeeze together linearly, and they mar the shit out of everything.

    Putting together a lower is not difficult, my 13 y.o. daughter did it with proper tools and never needed anything resembling vice grips
    Quote Originally Posted by Skyyr View Post
    ...How well does the C-clamp method work? Is it easier than using a hammer and brass punch?...
    MUCH easier than using a hammer & punch, especially if you have a C clamp without the floating foot. Place the lower in a vise block and clamp it in a vise, use tape as PTP (Protect The Product) line up the pin and gently tighten the C clamp to press the pin into place. Use a good C clamp so it doesn't distort under pressure (like cheap C clamps will) and make sure the threads run smoothly before using it. The nice part about using the C clamp is that it supports the ear to prevent breakage.

    While you do not need a C clamp, it's easy to use and works every time
    Last edited by MistWolf; 01-05-13 at 12:33.
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toyoland66 View Post
    One trick I have seen is to tape the roll pin to the end of the roll pin punch to get it started.
    I love blue painter's tape for this. Well, I love blue painter's tape for anything, but I really like the no residue part for this, too.

  6. #26
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    Roll pin punches and roll pin starters make it all so much easier. For that tricky little front pivot/takedown detent, I use the Xacto blade trick inside a bag like MistWolf does. A 1-gallon Ziploc bag works fine, a 2-gallon is preferable. (I have big hands.)

    I use a starter and roll pin punch on my trigger guard pins, no problems after three builds and several swap-outs. I use a piece of wood to support the ear on the bottom, usually a flat carpenter's pencil. As was mentioned by many, lube the pins and holes.

    If you have a dedicated workspace/bench, I recommend getting a full-size 5" or 6" vise. Not just for AR barrle nuts, but for tons of other uses.

  7. #27
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    I recommend purchasing a full size bench vise as well. They can be bought rather cheaply at lowes, although a bit rough and mine needed a little touch up work. Be sure to keep pressure on the tool against the barrel nut to prevent it from slipping and marring the nut or damaging the tool. Also, dont confuse roll pins with spring pins. spring pins are idendified by being a continuous metal strip coiled many times. they are designed to be used with standard puches and can be damaged by roll pin punches.

  8. #28
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    forgot to add
    i have something similar to this made of polymer, that has a few different sized pushers

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Watch-...item53f255083d

    or bust the float cap off a small c clamp like alrwady mentioned

  9. #29
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    Good stuff.

    So it looks like a good bench vise is in order. Done. I dont have a heavyduty bench available at this location but I can always screw it to a length of 2x6 or 2x8 and clamp it to an old iron sewing machine stand that currently acts as the base for my gunsmithing/reloading/cleaning surface (I clamp a 2'x4' piece of thick mdf on it).

    Thanks again all.

  10. #30
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    I put a bath towel over the rifle and myself when installing takedown and pivot pin detents. They will invariably launch one or more times prior to getting it right, and the towel greatly reduces the area I have to search for them. A poncho would also work.

    Don't do this in a room that has a shag carpet. =)

    I like the plastic bag idea and will have to try that myself.

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