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Thread: When building your first AR - most common errors?

  1. #11
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    Good stuff, thanks MistWolf. I just replaced a few missing roll pin holder/starters and roll pin punches earlier tonight so we are definitely on the same page on that subject. I will study the rest of your tips and make sure I understand them as I learn more about the process.

  2. #12
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    Definitely be careful installing the detent pins, taking one to the eye isn't much fun. Don't ask me how I know.

  3. #13
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    Mist just curious, what's wrong with using vice grips/pliers for installing roll pins? I've never done it that way but thought it looked like a good idea.

  4. #14
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    You have absolutely no control of what happens when the vice grips cam over, they don't squeeze together linearly, and they mar the shit out of everything.

    Putting together a lower is not difficult, my 13 y.o. daughter did it with proper tools and never needed anything resembling vice grips

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    Be very careful installing the trigger guard. It's very easy to break off an ear installing the pin. Use a bit of lube and make sure the ear on the opposite side is fully supported. I used a C clamp
    I assembled my first lower some time ago and the trigger guard pin was most definitely the hardest portion of assembling the lower. I used an old paperback book as support (several pages folded to fill the gap between the surface of the counter I was working on and the opposite ear).

    How well does the C-clamp method work? Is it easier than using a hammer and brass punch? Aside from taking forever to get it centered and started, using a punch marred the edges of the pin hole due to the impact of striking the pin - If a C-clamp avoids this, I'll give it a shot.

  6. #16
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    Lube the holes before installing pins.....you'd be amazed at how many people don't do this then complain about out of spec pins.

    Use roll pin punches for roll pins...that's what they're made for.

    No need for all clamps and such when supporting the lower ear on the trigger guard is all that's needed. I've found a typical roll of electrical tape to be the perfect height and also works for many other things where you need some type of support block.

    Use moly grease on the threads for your barrel install.

    Clamp your barrel with barrel blocks or wood block and install your flash hider before installing your handguard.
    Last edited by wahoo95; 01-05-13 at 09:35.

  7. #17
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    I'll second what wahoo95 said about lubricating the pins / holes prior to installation. It makes a world of difference when installing the roll pins. That said, the bolt catch roll pin sometimes is a PITA. I recommend using a roll-pin starter punch here as it really helps out and virtually negates the possibility of scratching your lower.

    Also, ensure to properly grease the barrel nut threads / receiver threads and where the barrel nut contacts to flat portion of the barrel extension (see picture below). A friend tried to install a barrel without adding any grease and was completely flustered as to why he could not line up the gas port without excessive torque.



    Take your time and use the proper tools.
    Last edited by thecolter; 01-05-13 at 10:16.

  8. #18
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    On the subject of roll pin punches you will need 3 sizes for a typical AR build:

    #2 (5/64) for the gas tube roll pin
    #3 (3/32) for the bolt catch roll pin and forward assist roll pin
    #4 (1/8) for the trigger guard roll pin

    Roll pin holders also come in handy for starting the pins straight, however there isn't room to use one on the bolt catch. One trick I have seen is to tape the roll pin to the end of the roll pin punch to get it started.

    If you use a magpul trigger guard I would recommend replacing the roll pin supplied with a colt pin as it is much easier to drive and will reduce your odds of breaking an ear off.

    A sparing amount of grease in the selector groove and takedown/ pivot pin grooves will help with smooth operation.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by thecolter View Post

    Also, ensure to properly grease the barrel nut threads / receiver threads and where the barrel nut contacts to flat portion of the upper receiver (highlighted in red in the picture below). A friend tried to install a barrel without adding any grease and was completely flustered as to why he could not line up the gas port without excessive torque.



    Take your time and use the proper tools.
    the barrel nut does not contact the face of the upper receiver, it contacts the shoulder of the barrel extension. You are correct that it should be greased.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toyoland66 View Post
    the barrel nut does not contact the face of the upper receiver, it contacts the shoulder of the barrel extension. You are correct that it should be greased.
    caught that... fixed above.

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