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Thread: When building your first AR - most common errors?

  1. #41
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    This thread should be a sticky!

    OP,

    +1000 on a good bench vise. I bought a relatively expensive one from Harbor freight. It serves boo koo purposes for all kinds of projects (not just guns).

    For castle nut staking, I have also used a auto punch from Harbor freight. Relatively inexpensive. The only issue I have seen was that I tried to stake a hardened sling plate once and it didn't work so well. The tip of the punch was flattened out. 10 seconds on my bench grinder fixed that.

    I have also used blue tape generously to prevent any permanent marring on the receiver surfaces.

    For installing the front take down pin, I found that working on a high table or counter that places the lower at chest level makes things much easier to install the detent and take down pin. I also second the clear baggie or large bed sheet to catch the flier!

    Good luck on the install.
    Life's a risk, enjoy the adventure - HOPLOETHOS

  2. #42
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    Blue tape is good stuff. When my kids are building a lower I just cover the whole thing in blue tape. Takes a couple minutes and saves from those slips and rough handling.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slvr Surfr View Post
    This thread should be a sticky!

    OP,

    Good luck on the install.
    Thanks much. I believe I have ordered every part and tool that I need (that I didnt already have). Now the hardest part- waiting for every last piece to arrive. So far all I have in house is a stripped upper, stripped lower and barrel/bcg/gt. At least those parts all fit together nicely....

    Quote Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
    You guys make the front pivot pin way too difficult. Haven't lost a detente yet. You don't even need to buy the "tool" just go down to the hardware store and buy a 1/4" x 2" clevis pin. Insert spring and detent into receiver.
    Compress detent in recess using 3/32" punch and rotate tool.
    Push out tool with pivot pin and rotate until detent is in groove of pivot pin.
    Quote Originally Posted by jet66 View Post
    I have about a 50/50 success rate with that method alone. I do use mine to load the spring and detent pin, and then slip the Xacto blade in to hold it in place. I then push the the Clevis pin through with the front pivot pin.
    Great trick. Thanks to both of you.

    Quote Originally Posted by NeoNeanderthal View Post
    From what i've learned, the only thing you can scrimp on is the stripped lower. In many cases a 70$ one is as good as a 190$ one.
    I love hearing this. When I picked up my lower I had a choice between Stag, S&W and Anderson. The Stag and S&W were more expensive, plus for reasons that I cant really explain I didnt want a major manufacturer's roll stamp on "my" lower. I compared the 3 and the Anderson looked really really good so I got it. I wont know for sure if it is a good part until I am done but so far the fit with the upper is excellent.

    And blue tape it is!

  4. #44
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by MistWolf View Post
    First things first- DO NOT USE VISE GRIPS TO PRESS ANY PINS INTO PLACE NO MATTER WHAT YOUTUBE VIDEOS SHOW

    Torque and back off the barrel nut at least twice before final torque and torque it smoothly. You don't need to over torque it.

    Make sure the gas tube fits into the upper receiver cleanly. It should float in the hole and fit in the gas key of the BCG with no binding.

    Use a long punch to install the mag release pin. Protect the surrounding area with a few layers of masking tape.

    Be very careful installing the trigger guard. It's very easy to break off an ear installing the pin. Use a bit of lube and make sure the ear on the opposite side is fully supported. I used a C clamp

    A magnet can help with installing detent pins.

    I also used an Exacto blade to assist pushing them in place. I worked inside a clear baggie large enough to get my hands in to keep the pin from launching itself into the unknown when I slipped.

    Here is a link to the write up I did, with photos, on how to install the trigger
    http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=72111

    Take your time, don't rush and pay close attention to the details

    I've never tried the C clamp method, but the rest of this is solid advice.

  5. #45
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    C-clamp method works great

  6. #46
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    Don't lose the small springs on install.

  7. #47
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    Any pin install method can go FUBAR dependent on operator skill (or lack thereof).

    The plier/vice grip method can work well if you know your way around a tool box, and protect the surfaces of the receiver with tape. It is not better than the right tools for the job.

    Success or failure using this method is entirely based on you (as with any method).

  8. #48
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    There are two types of folks who use Vise Grips (TM) for pressing pins- Those who have marred a work-piece and those who are going to.

    I have been using Vise Grips (TM) professionally for a variety of tasks for decades. They make a poor choice as a press and the jaws will mar your work-piece even with tape. You might get away with a few times but sooner or later, the jaws will slip and/or the tape will fail. It's not worth the risk
    INSIDE PLAN OF BOX
    1. ROAD-RUNNER LIFTS GLASS OF WATER- PULLING UP MATCH
    2. MATCH SCRATCHES ON MATCH-BOX
    3. MATCH LIGHTS FUSE TO TNT
    4. BOOM!
    5. HA-HA!!

    -WILE E. COYOTE, AUTHOR OF "EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO KNOW IN LIFE, I LEARNED FROM GOLDBERG & MURPHY"

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  9. #49
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    If you're too lazy to order roll pin starters, needle nose pliers work well for starting roll pins. Just use the needle nose pliers like little tiny fingers that don't get hurt when you bang them with a hammer.

    Don't forget the slave pin when installing the trigger group. It keeps everything in place and makes install a breeze.

    If a roll pin, etc install doesn't feel like its going in properly, its not. You're either using out of spec parts or doing it incorrectly. Patience is a virtue, and I have a dinged up lower to prove it.

    If you need some milspec barrel nut grease, pm me. I have a large tube that I'll probably never use up.

  10. #50
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    Thanks t42. Luckily the ALG TCG comes with a slave pin so that should help.

    I did get the roll pins starts (and roll pin drivers, a nice set of Starett punches with the round holder, etc etc.) I used this project as a good excuse to upgrade or acquire tools that I should have upgraded or acquired long ago (like a vice).

    I havent picked out a grease yet but I will keep your offer in mind, thanks.

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