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Thread: Best way to mount bipod to smooth free-float handguard/bull barrel

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    Why would anyone make an upper that weighs 8 lbs on its own without adding some kind of provision for a bipod?!
    Eight pounds isn't heavy. Just try finding an M-14 type that weighs less than 9lbs...

    Anyway, like somebody mentioned, some people just shoot off bags.


    Quote Originally Posted by The_Hammer_Man View Post
    The "best way" would be to install a slingpoint/bipod pin where you want it.
    Quote Originally Posted by mpom View Post
    Cleanest, cheapest and simplest is as was mentioned- drill hole for sling swivel and then attach a Harris bipod when needed. Can tap handguard for this or use a backing plate, such as the IWC one.
    +1

    Just get a basic threaded sling swivel, or, if possible, get a backing plate inside the handguard.


    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    Is there such thing as a rugged, clear, quality scope for under $300?
    Yes. I'm a big fan of Nikon's Monarch line. I have a 2-8x32 on my M-14, which is a notorious scope-killer, and it's held up fine. You can find a 2.5-10x for under $300 if you shop around.

    At 2x I can use the scope very close in, and with both eyes open, so I don't bother with the iron sights anymore.

  2. #12
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    I use this JP stud on my Troy VTAC rail to mount my bipod. You would need to drill a hole for it, but it would be a nice clean install after it was mounted and wouldn't ruin the look or feel of the tube.

    As for a scope how about a SWFA 10x or a bushnell 10x. Going with a fixed power will get you a better, more rugged scope for less money. Also skip the BUIS and spend the money on a better scope mount.
    Last edited by Atticus_1354; 01-10-13 at 00:50.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpom View Post

    Hope it helps.

    Mark
    Thanks - but do I need both parts to get this to work???

    Quote Originally Posted by Atticus_1354 View Post
    I use this JP stud on my Troy VTAC rail to mount my bipod. You would need to drill a hole for it, but it would be a nice clean install after it was mounted and wouldn't ruin the look or feel of the tube.

    As for a scope how about a SWFA 10x or a bushnell 10x. Going with a fixed power will get you a better, more rugged scope for less money. Also skip the BUIS and spend the money on a better scope mount.
    That JP looks like a nice option, so the aluminum block goes on the inside of my handguard???

    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    Eight pounds isn't heavy. Just try finding an M-14 type that weighs less than 9lbs...
    Not heavy, considering my 12 ga weighs 11 lbs, but I already have a carbine and middy for CQB uses - an upper that weighs more than either of my other rifles in their entirity but is chambered for the same caliber counts as heavy in my book. Granted, it's mostly a balance issue - a 24" stainless target crowned bull barrel is a beast, all that weight out front - once I get a UBR to try to balance things out I'm sure it won't feel so unwieldy.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    Just get a basic threaded sling swivel, or, if possible, get a backing plate inside the handguard.
    What are the advantages/disadvantages to each method?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    Yes. I'm a big fan of Nikon's Monarch line. I have a 2-8x32 on my M-14, which is a notorious scope-killer, and it's held up fine. You can find a 2.5-10x for under $300 if you shop around.
    At 2x I can use the scope very close in, and with both eyes open, so I don't bother with the iron sights anymore.
    Thanks for the tip - I'm going to look for that 2.5-10x that you mentioned... Unfortunately, I'm still an old-fashioned type and I refuse to own a rifle without a set of irons on it. If I break the glass, I don't want to have to try point-shooting my AR.

    Thanks for your help everyone, I'm such a n00b. I've been shooting rifles since almost as long as I can remember, but I've never used a bipod and have only gotten into ARs recently. A bag is probably out of the question unless I'm on my rooftop, holding off advancing enemy infantry. Sorry in advance if I ask too many questions!

    EDIT: one more question - does the Monarch take 1" rings????

    EDIT AGAIN: would a Nikon Monarch 8-32x56 ED scope be overkill for this rifle??? Also, how rugged are these scopes??? I want something that will take some unintentional knocks. Thanks again!
    Last edited by Shao; 01-10-13 at 12:37.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    What are the advantages/disadvantages to each method?
    I would try to get a backing plate inside the handguard, because that'll be more stable and sturdier than just drilling and tapping the handguard.

    Harris sells rounded backing plates that would fit inside your handguard for $10 or so. They're bulletproof.

    I'd start with a Harris bipod, too. They're not the fanciest or the most expensive, but they work well, and you probably don't want to spend $200 on a bipod until you're sure you're going to like using one.



    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    Thanks for the tip - I'm going to look for that 2.5-10x that you mentioned... Unfortunately, I'm still an old-fashioned type and I refuse to own a rifle without a set of irons on it. If I break the glass, I don't want to have to try point-shooting my AR.

    EDIT: one more question - does the Monarch take 1" rings????

    EDIT AGAIN: would a Nikon Monarch 8-32x56 ED scope be overkill for this rifle??? Also, how rugged are these scopes??? I want something that will take some unintentional knocks. Thanks again!
    I don't blame you for wanting irons on the gun. I still have irons on my M-14, but mounting the scope blocks them.

    Yes, the Monarch is 1" rings. Nevermind the 30mm Kool-Aid... a 30mm tube is really only good for more adjustability, which seems pointless when a 1" tube already offers 120moa of adjustability.

    Yes, a 8-32x scope is overkill. It's really only for extremely long distances... don't fall into the "more magnification is better" trap. Too much magnification is even worse than not enough magnification. Note that a lot of the guys here who know what they're doing are using 1-4x scopes to shoot out to 300-400yds.

    8x is already too much magnification to use at less than 50yds or to shoot offhand (binoculars are usually 8x).
    Unless you're shooting benchrest, anything above 16x or 20x is pointless. Things are are impossibly jiggly and you'll have too narrow a field of view (field of view is inversely proportional to magnification).

    Before you buy a scope, go to the shooting range on a busy day, and ask people if you can take a look through their scopes — you'll be surprised at how willing people are. Note what magnification seems about "right" at what distance. My guess is that you're NOT going to want a 32x scope.

  5. #15
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    Once you have the swivel on there you can attach a picitinny adapter to the swivel as well.. Light weight and pretty functional.. Ron
    Ain't no pockets on a shroud..

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    I would try to get a backing plate inside the handguard, because that'll be more stable and sturdier than just drilling and tapping the handguard.

    Harris sells rounded backing plates that would fit inside your handguard for $10 or so. They're bulletproof.

    I'd start with a Harris bipod, too. They're not the fanciest or the most expensive, but they work well, and you probably don't want to spend $200 on a bipod until you're sure you're going to like using one.
    Excellent, I was considering a Harris anyway - I'd rather use their backing plate than someone elses. Thanks for tip! Now my only fear is tapping the hole exactly center. All I have is a plumb line and rudimentary tools - should I invest in a laser level or something to make sure I don't #@&^## things up?


    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    Yes, the Monarch is 1" rings. Nevermind the 30mm Kool-Aid... a 30mm tube is really only good for more adjustability, which seems pointless when a 1" tube already offers 120moa of adjustability.

    Yes, a 8-32x scope is overkill. It's really only for extremely long distances... don't fall into the "more magnification is better" trap. Too much magnification is even worse than not enough magnification. Note that a lot of the guys here who know what they're doing are using 1-4x scopes to shoot out to 300-400yds.

    8x is already too much magnification to use at less than 50yds or to shoot offhand (binoculars are usually 8x).
    Unless you're shooting benchrest, anything above 16x or 20x is pointless. Things are are impossibly jiggly and you'll have too narrow a field of view (field of view is inversely proportional to magnification).

    Before you buy a scope, go to the shooting range on a busy day, and ask people if you can take a look through their scopes — you'll be surprised at how willing people are. Note what magnification seems about "right" at what distance. My guess is that you're NOT going to want a 32x scope.
    Once again, thanks for the invaluable advice. As you can tell, I've never been a scope shooter either. I think I want 10X minimum as I don't care for using the scope at any closer ranges - are there such things as high-mount QD scope rings that will not only hold zero when unattached, but also allow me to see my irons under the scope?

    Thanks in advance!!!

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
    Once you have the swivel on there you can attach a picitinny adapter to the swivel as well.. Light weight and pretty functional.. Ron
    Are you talking about the Harris mount?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    Now my only fear is tapping the hole exactly center. All I have is a plumb line and rudimentary tools - should I invest in a laser level or something to make sure I don't #@&^## things up?
    It's good to be afraid.

    If you can squeeze a backing plate in there, then you don't need to tap the hole. You just need to drill a hole in the middle of the bottom of the handguard.

    Wait to pick the spot to drill until you have the bipod and you can mock it up and see where you'll need the sling swivel.



    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    Once again, thanks for the invaluable advice. As you can tell, I've never been a scope shooter either. I think I want 10X minimum as I don't care for using the scope at any closer ranges - are there such things as high-mount QD scope rings that will not only hold zero when unattached, but also allow me to see my irons under the scope?
    We've all been there...

    There's a wealth of info in the "optics" forum here about various mounts...

    On the other hand, for figuring out what you want, there's no substitution for actually looking at targets through different scopes.
    Setting a 10x minimum may seem good sitting at your keyboard and reading specifications, but when you can't hold on your target because the image is too jiggly or you've lost your target because the field of view is too narrow, then it'll seem like an expensive mistake.

    Keep in mind, too, that big-doller scopes are so expensive because they have features that you don't want — target turrets, illuminated reticles, etc. etc. etc.
    Simple variable scopes today are remarkably good in terms of clarity and durability, and the returns diminish rapidly once you're spending more than several hundred bucks — not that an expensive scope isn't worth it, just that it isn't really necessary.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post
    It's good to be afraid.

    If you can squeeze a backing plate in there, then you don't need to tap the hole. You just need to drill a hole in the middle of the bottom of the handguard.

    Wait to pick the spot to drill until you have the bipod and you can mock it up and see where you'll need the sling swivel.
    Afraid is an understatement. So... the backing plate is self-centering? Will definitely get a bipod first, thanks for that tip.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmer View Post

    On the other hand, for figuring out what you want, there's no substitution for actually looking at targets through different scopes.
    Setting a 10x minimum may seem good sitting at your keyboard and reading specifications, but when you can't hold on your target because the image is too jiggly or you've lost your target because the field of view is too narrow, then it'll seem like an expensive mistake.

    Keep in mind, too, that big-doller scopes are so expensive because they have features that you don't want — target turrets, illuminated reticles, etc. etc. etc.
    Simple variable scopes today are remarkably good in terms of clarity and durability, and the returns diminish rapidly once you're spending more than several hundred bucks — not that an expensive scope isn't worth it, just that it isn't really necessary.
    I guess I wasn't clear - I meant 10X max minimum - I would like lower levels for sure. I just want a good, clear, tough scope in matte black (gotta match of course). Thanks again Bimmer. Your forum name is familiar - are you on any of the other forums? I seem to remember having a discussion with you about something.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    Afraid is an understatement. So... the backing plate is self-centering?
    Rather than trying to explain this with 1,000 words... go to this link, and scroll down and look at the selection of adaptors on the left side.

    http://www.harrisbipods.com/

    I'm guessing you want something like the HB2A (http://www.harrisbipods.com/HB2A.html), but you'll need to eyeball your handguard.


    Quote Originally Posted by Shao View Post
    Your forum name is familiar - are you on any of the other forums? I seem to remember having a discussion with you about something.
    I'm "Bimmer" on several forums. We both posted in the thread about 12 o'clock flashlight mounts.

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