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Thread: One handed castle nut torquing

  1. #1
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    One handed castle nut torquing



    First thing you're probably saying is "WTH?"

    This was the setup I used to get the nut torqued to spec (40ft/lbs) having use of only one hand. There might be other folks out there who are in the same boat and there isn't always someone around to help lend a hand, literally.

    Explanations:

    Standing/holding the stock and receiver with my feet - With the receiver in the vise I found that as I torqued the nut the buffer tube would twist and leave the stock sitting at a crooked angle. I'm not able to hold the tube from twisting while applying torque to the nut with only one hand. This was what I came up with.

    Foam pad under receiver - should be obvious that it is to cushion the receiver.

    Standing on my workbench - I had to raise the receiver high enough off the ground that I could position the armorer wrench so the head wouldn't get stopped on the ground when I torqued it. So, I hopped up on my bench and let the wrench head overhang.

    Tape on the buffer tube - precaution to cover the tube so I didn't mar the threads if the wrench slipped

    Finally all this positioning allowed me to get the torque wrench in the strongest position for me to pull up and get to torque spec. I needed to secure the nut.


    Subsequently, the castle nut was staked with a spring loaded punch. You'll need multiple strikes and do that until you're satisfied with the stake. I recommend a few strikes straight down to form the dimple to keep the punch from skittering off. Then you can strike at an angle for the stake.






    Hope this helps somebody.

  2. #2
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    "Necessity is the mother of invention." Now that's working through the problem. Good deal.

  3. #3
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    Paging IraqGunz!

    This is so asinine.
    You don't need to measure exact torque on the castle nut.
    Get it good and tight and stake the end plate.
    End of job.

    How many times does your multi-wrench slip off if the castle nut doing it your way?
    Quote Originally Posted by scottryan View Post
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    They are illigetimate weapons that have no real purpose other than to attract retards to the gun community.

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    Quote Originally Posted by polymorpheous View Post

    How many times does your multi-wrench slip off if the castle nut doing it your way?
    None.

    Oh hey, how do you suppose I get the nut to "good and tight" without the tube twisting? Because I worked on it a few times before doing this and every time I did not support the tube it twisted and it wasn't even near 40 ft lbs.


    Quote Originally Posted by 3 AE View Post
    "Necessity is the mother of invention." Now that's working through the problem. Good deal.
    Thanks. Worked exactly as I needed it too
    Last edited by Shorts; 01-15-13 at 21:09.

  5. #5
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    Since the wrench is not on the nut itself it looks like added torque from the fixed wrench is likely.
    "Bones Heal, Chics Dig Scars, Pain Goes Away"

  6. #6
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    Proper torque

    Love your determination!
    FYI, and If you already know this, 10-22. But, if you used your wrench as shown in the pic, you are actually torquing beyond 40ft.lbs. due to the off-set. It's been a while, but a rough guess is you are actually closer to 50.
    Here's a handy guide: http://cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
    I keep my off-set at 90*, when i can, to save any unnecessary math!
    Last edited by Atchcraft; 01-15-13 at 21:48.

  7. #7
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    Atchcraft, thanks for that calculator. I input my numbers but I'm a bit confused on the "A" input if my value should be 30* or 150* (or 40/140, either angle is close to what I used). If it is 150, I'm likely under the spec be a 3-5 ft/lbs. If it is 30, I am over by a 3-5 ft/lbs.

    Well, either way I'm satisfied that I got the castle nut on there securely, it is staked properly and the tube/stock are lined up straight (which was the entire reason for the unorthodox method). These were my goals and they were accomplished. The smallest tasks turn into the biggest circuses for "us"

    I will bookmark this calculator. I can use it in the garage too. Thanks.

  8. #8
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    In the pic, It looked like the castle nut wrench was at about 0* (draw a straight line down the handle) which would be angle "A"... Anyway, not that big of a deal. It was just food for thought in the event that you ever find yourself torquing something you really don't want to break. Not trying to be the "what ya shoulda done..." Guy. Again, I do admire the "adapt, improvise and overcome".

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atchcraft View Post
    In the pic, It looked like the castle nut wrench was at about 0* (draw a straight line down the handle) which would be angle "A"... Anyway, not that big of a deal. It was just food for thought in the event that you ever find yourself torquing something you really don't want to break. Not trying to be the "what ya shoulda done..." Guy. Again, I do admire the "adapt, improvise and overcome".

    I do appreciate the double check. I take torque specs seriously so your thoughts on the subject are welcome. An extra brain looking at my work is to my advantage. Cheers!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by polymorpheous View Post
    Paging IraqGunz!

    This is so asinine.
    You don't need to measure exact torque on the castle nut.
    Get it good and tight and stake the end plate.
    End of job.

    How many times does your multi-wrench slip off if the castle nut doing it your way?
    How many hands do you have? The OP says he only has the use of one hand. Can't imagine having to do that job with only one hand. To the OP...good on you for figuring it out yourself.

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