Scope leveling methods

**HKfan** · 01-30-13, 08:59

Is there an established standard for leveling a new scope? I am brand new to scopes (and AR15s, for that matter) and just purchased a Vortex Viper HS Tactical and Bobro extended mount. I have done some research and read through threads on M4C discussing leveling methods, but have become more confused as to what I need to do to accurately level my new scope.

Can anyone point me to a link or suggest a method that would be appropriate given my mounting hardware and level of skill. Unfortunately, I am unaware of any qualified gunsmiths in my area that could assist me.

Thanks in advance. I really appreciate any guidance you could provide.

**rero360** · 01-30-13, 14:12

there are a few ways to do it, both cheap and easily. If you are mounting the scope on a picatinny rail you can use feeler gauges, or metal shims to level out the bottom of the scope in relation to the rail, get the right thickness of gauges and put between scope and rail. This is flawed though if the scope body bottom isn't perfectly perpendicular to the reticle.

the other method, is you hang a plumb bob (any sort of weight) from a string and then, ensuring your rifle is level, align the reticle with the string. This method is dependent on how level you can get the rifle.

I personally use the feeler gauge method as I'm pretty confident my USOs are well built and also I have a feeling my house mates would get a bit weirded out by me having guns out and hanging string and all that down in the living room.

**7 RING** · 01-30-13, 15:04

My recommendation is based on having the proper scope eye relief before leveling the crosshairs. Naturally, you are going to do this with the rifle unloaded and I suggest removing the bolt from the rifle in case someone sees you in your garage and the police stop by while you are doing this.

I use two levels when I level the scope crosshairs. You can buy line levels that go on string and use them. Just make sure the levels have a flat surface on the bottom.

I find a flat surface on the rifle that allows me to level up the rifle in a gun vise, then lock the rifle in the gun vise. If you do not have a gun vise, you can buy a plastic clamp that will fit over the outside of the rifle barrel or forend and level up the rifle by placing sheets of paper under one of the clamp legs while watching the level. You also want to level up the rifle front to rear, but it does not have to be as precise as side to side.

I leave the level on the rifle in case I bump it. Then I place a level on the elevation knob cap and rotate the scope until it is level. Then I view the reticle through the scope to ensure the crosshair appears level. Sometimes the elevation knob cap is not level with the crosshairs and you have to use the windage knob cap for reference. The elevation/windage knob caps will get you close, but you may have to rotate the scope slightly when you do the next step.

Snug up, not tighten, the scope ring screws so the scope won't move easily, then view a distant vertical object through the scope. The vertical crosshair should line up with the object. Ideally you want to be at least 25 yards from the vertical object you use for reference. If you live out in the country, you can use the corner of a newer building, flag pole, etc. If you live in town you might want to find a private area to do this. You can draw a straight vertical line on a piece of cardboard and attach it to a fence or the wall inside of your garage. The longer the line, the better. Make sure you place a level against the drawn line and make it plumb before securing the cardboard to the fence, wall, etc., then use it as a reference.

Check your horizontal crosshairs and make sure they appear level. The vertical crosshair is not always at a perfect 90 degree angle with the horizontal crosshair. If you are using mil dots for hold over/under, I recommend using the vertical crosshair for reference.

When you are happy with the way the crosshairs are aligned, draw witness marks on the top scope rings and scope with a pencil or something else that can be cleaned off easily when you are done. Tighten down each scope ring screw in 1/4 turns, alternating back and forth. I move from the front to back rings and tighten each screw equally while doing this. Make sure you have an even gap between the upper and lower scope ring on each side of the rings. Watch your witness marks to ensure the scope does not rotate as you tighten the screws.

You may have to do this process more than once to get the scope crosshairs leveled to your satisfaction.

Good luck with your project.

**royal** · 01-30-13, 15:15

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-113088...dp/B000BYAKDM/

**Failure2Stop** · 01-30-13, 15:25

7 Ring's procedure is mostly what I follow, with the following exceptions:

I use a small bubble level placed on the receiver rail, just behind the occular lens, to level the gun. I try to use a bipod with cant adjustment to get it as perfect as possible. Absent a bipod, I rest the bottom rail on a verified flat/level surface and check with the level.

I like to use the vertical edge of a building for reticle reference. I do that for a few reasons; horizontal level can be significantly misperceived if at even a slight angle, and it is easier to find a building at long distance than to try to focus on a plumb-bob at room distance. If I am out in a non-structure bearing environment I hang a thick length of string (Bore-Snakes work decently well) with at least 5lbs of weight on them.

**7 RING** · 01-30-13, 15:26

Originally Posted by royal

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-113088...dp/B000BYAKDM/

You might have had better luck than me with the Wheeler Engineering levels, but I haven't always been able to use the lower level in the picture. I normally find a flat surface on the rifle receiver and secure a line level or larger level to it with a rubber band or tape. A line level or a 6"-8" level can be purchased relatively cheap at the hardware store. Sometimes I will place a 3rd level on top of the scope base if I can get it to fit between the receiver and lower scope ring. I have installed roughly 30 scopes this way.

**royal** · 01-30-13, 15:31

Originally Posted by 7 RING

You might have had better luck than me with the Wheeler Engineering levels, but I haven't always been able to use the lower level in the picture. I normally find a flat surface on the rifle receiver and secure a line level or larger level with a rubber band or tape. A line level or a 6"-8" level can be purchased relatively cheap at the hardware store. I have installed roughly 30 scopes this way.

Yes, I know what you are referring to and have always just found a snug (flat) spot for the lower level. On a bolt action I've used the recessed channel where the bolt enters the action. I've had good luck with the Wheelers but obviously there's more than one way to skin a cat.