Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Scope leveling methods

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    58
    Feedback Score
    0
    wow. What a great writeup. I really appreciate it. I will attempt to mount it this weekend and report back.


    Quote Originally Posted by 7 RING View Post
    My recommendation is based on having the proper scope eye relief before leveling the crosshairs. Naturally, you are going to do this with the rifle unloaded and I suggest removing the bolt from the rifle in case someone sees you in your garage and the police stop by while you are doing this.

    I use two levels when I level the scope crosshairs. You can buy line levels that go on string and use them. Just make sure the levels have a flat surface on the bottom.

    I find a flat surface on the rifle that allows me to level up the rifle in a gun vise, then lock the rifle in the gun vise. If you do not have a gun vise, you can buy a plastic clamp that will fit over the outside of the rifle barrel or forend and level up the rifle by placing sheets of paper under one of the clamp legs while watching the level. You also want to level up the rifle front to rear, but it does not have to be as precise as side to side.

    I leave the level on the rifle in case I bump it. Then I place a level on the elevation knob cap and rotate the scope until it is level. Then I view the reticle through the scope to ensure the crosshair appears level. Sometimes the elevation knob cap is not level with the crosshairs and you have to use the windage knob cap for reference. The elevation/windage knob caps will get you close, but you may have to rotate the scope slightly when you do the next step.

    Snug up, not tighten, the scope ring screws so the scope won't move easily, then view a distant vertical object through the scope. The vertical crosshair should line up with the object. Ideally you want to be at least 25 yards from the vertical object you use for reference. If you live out in the country, you can use the corner of a newer building, flag pole, etc. If you live in town you might want to find a private area to do this. You can draw a straight vertical line on a piece of cardboard and attach it to a fence or the wall inside of your garage. The longer the line, the better. Make sure you place a level against the drawn line and make it plumb before securing the cardboard to the fence, wall, etc., then use it as a reference.

    Check your horizontal crosshairs and make sure they appear level. The vertical crosshair is not always at a perfect 90 degree angle with the horizontal crosshair. If you are using mil dots for hold over/under, I recommend using the vertical crosshair for reference.

    When you are happy with the way the crosshairs are aligned, draw witness marks on the top scope rings and scope with a pencil or something else that can be cleaned off easily when you are done. Tighten down each scope ring screw in 1/4 turns, alternating back and forth. I move from the front to back rings and tighten each screw equally while doing this. Make sure you have an even gap between the upper and lower scope ring on each side of the rings. Watch your witness marks to ensure the scope does not rotate as you tighten the screws.

    You may have to do this process more than once to get the scope crosshairs leveled to your satisfaction.

    Good luck with your project.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NM
    Posts
    1,476
    Feedback Score
    0
    Deck of cards works best for me (flat on bottom of optic opposing flat on mount). Level on receiver and edge of neighbors house to square reticle is no. 2.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ...or some 3rd world country
    Posts
    740
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)
    IF you have a high quality scope with a reasonable expectation of your crosshairs being level with the turret housing, either the feeler gauge method or the Spuhr leveling wedge works great to get a baseline level that you can check with the plumb/building method. I like the Spuhr because it's cheap and easy, but it's not as cheap as free. I happened to be getting 5 or 6 scopes ready for guys for hunting season.
    I'm not cool. I just do this stuff for fun.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    9,246
    Feedback Score
    28 (100%)

    Re: Scope mounting Qs

    Threads merged
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    27,206
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)
    Uhhh... Levels?

    Your eyes can deceive you... just ask Ben Kenobe.

    Not supposed to use any lock tite... changes the torque value. Our rifle smith never uses loctite on stuff like that. If the fasteners are good and clean, you won't need it.

    That said, I still use vibratite, not loctite.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    9,246
    Feedback Score
    28 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Uhhh... Levels?

    Your eyes can deceive you... just ask Ben Kenobe.

    Not supposed to use any lock tite... changes the torque value. Our rifle smith never uses loctite on stuff like that. If the fasteners are good and clean, you won't need it.

    That said, I still use vibratite, not loctite.
    I've seen a spreading use of vibratite, and I think it would be a better solution for scope ring screws than loctite. I have seen far too many people over-tighten or under-tighten scope mount screws to failing result. Most of these issues are solved by proper torque values on cleaned and degreased scope screws, agreed. I just like the added security that a thread locker gives on anything stuck to a gun, especially with higher recoiling cartridges with moderate or greater round count use.
    Jack Leuba
    Director, Military and Government Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    545
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by wild_wild_wes View Post
    What is a good method to ensure the scope is at true vertical?

    What color loc-tite for the screws?
    1) After you view the vertical crosshair through the scope and align it with the corner of a building you still want to shoot the rifle to check. I take the piece of cardboard I used in the garage for the first pass at getting the vertical crosshair plumb to the range with me and shoot it. I take a 36" level to ensure the line is perfectly plumb and post the target at 100 yards. I zero the rifle on a different target, then shoot the cardboard. I hold over/under with my mil dots or come up 20 clicks elevation, down 40 clicks elevation and back up 20 clicks elevation and shoot at each setting. All three groups should cut the line or be centered on the line. Sometimes you have to reset the scope to make the vertical crosshair perfectly plumb.

    2) I rarely use Loc-Tite. I clean the screws with isopropyl alcohol, allow them to dry and torque them. After reading some of the other posts, I am going to try Vibratite.
    Last edited by 7 RING; 01-31-13 at 12:19.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    2,317
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)
    Vibratite? Never heard of it. Where can it be gotten?
    "The secret to happiness is freedom, and the secret to freedom is courage." - Thucydides, c. 410 BC

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    113
    Feedback Score
    0
    I purchased this device a while ago and am happy with its function. http://www.riflescopelevel.com/verti...nstrument.html
    Last edited by bigbang; 01-31-13 at 15:50.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •