wow. What a great writeup. I really appreciate it. I will attempt to mount it this weekend and report back.
My recommendation is based on having the proper scope eye relief before leveling the crosshairs. Naturally, you are going to do this with the rifle unloaded and I suggest removing the bolt from the rifle in case someone sees you in your garage and the police stop by while you are doing this.
I use two levels when I level the scope crosshairs. You can buy line levels that go on string and use them. Just make sure the levels have a flat surface on the bottom.
I find a flat surface on the rifle that allows me to level up the rifle in a gun vise, then lock the rifle in the gun vise. If you do not have a gun vise, you can buy a plastic clamp that will fit over the outside of the rifle barrel or forend and level up the rifle by placing sheets of paper under one of the clamp legs while watching the level. You also want to level up the rifle front to rear, but it does not have to be as precise as side to side.
I leave the level on the rifle in case I bump it. Then I place a level on the elevation knob cap and rotate the scope until it is level. Then I view the reticle through the scope to ensure the crosshair appears level. Sometimes the elevation knob cap is not level with the crosshairs and you have to use the windage knob cap for reference. The elevation/windage knob caps will get you close, but you may have to rotate the scope slightly when you do the next step.
Snug up, not tighten, the scope ring screws so the scope won't move easily, then view a distant vertical object through the scope. The vertical crosshair should line up with the object. Ideally you want to be at least 25 yards from the vertical object you use for reference. If you live out in the country, you can use the corner of a newer building, flag pole, etc. If you live in town you might want to find a private area to do this. You can draw a straight vertical line on a piece of cardboard and attach it to a fence or the wall inside of your garage. The longer the line, the better. Make sure you place a level against the drawn line and make it plumb before securing the cardboard to the fence, wall, etc., then use it as a reference.
Check your horizontal crosshairs and make sure they appear level. The vertical crosshair is not always at a perfect 90 degree angle with the horizontal crosshair. If you are using mil dots for hold over/under, I recommend using the vertical crosshair for reference.
When you are happy with the way the crosshairs are aligned, draw witness marks on the top scope rings and scope with a pencil or something else that can be cleaned off easily when you are done. Tighten down each scope ring screw in 1/4 turns, alternating back and forth. I move from the front to back rings and tighten each screw equally while doing this. Make sure you have an even gap between the upper and lower scope ring on each side of the rings. Watch your witness marks to ensure the scope does not rotate as you tighten the screws.
You may have to do this process more than once to get the scope crosshairs leveled to your satisfaction.
Good luck with your project.



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