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Thread: Fixing threads: tap or die?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Yeah... there's something jookie going on...

    I've put on a ton of mounts.. including some surefire.. and I've never seen something that'd thread the A2 but not the replacement.
    I'm not sure how many a ton of mounts is, but I've installed over 100 and I've had quite a few issues with tolerances. I believe all of them have involved cut down and rethreaded barrels (a few of these were Centurion Arms 11.5" barrels.. which were cut down from 12.5 by Monty).

    Most of the time the device will thread on most of the way before require some torque to finish the journey, other times it will need a wrench to help move it on its way (after locking barrel into a vice) but this is the second one I've had that won't thread fully only the barrel even with some coercion (wrench).

    I suppose I'll try a die first. I'd rather not buy all the tools as I haven't been spending as much time tinkering lately and I'm afraid it would sit there untouched after its maiden voyage.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckjay View Post
    I suppose I'll try a die first. I'd rather not buy all the tools as I haven't been spending as much time tinkering lately and I'm afraid it would sit there untouched after its maiden voyage.
    That's the usual service life of many tools. When you need it, nothing else will do, but if you don't need it, it is an expensive and lightweight doorstop.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick sweeney View Post
    That's the usual service life of many tools. When you need it, nothing else will do, but if you don't need it, it is an expensive and lightweight doorstop.
    Irregularly used tools is what harbor freight was made for isn't it?

  4. #14
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    Good luck getting a 1/2-28 tap or die out of Harbor Freight.

    They can be useful, but some things they just look at you with a puzzled expression.

  5. #15
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    How far down the threads does it go before it starts binding?
    Is it possible that muzzle device and barrel are threaded at different pitches?
    You dig your grave with your fork.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick sweeney View Post
    Good luck getting a 1/2-28 tap or die out of Harbor Freight.

    They can be useful, but some things they just look at you with a puzzled expression.
    You speak truth, but where harbor freight fails, Amazon prevails.

    If it something I use all the time I pay for quality, but if it's a one time use thing I'm all about the cheapies...

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwperry View Post
    How far down the threads does it go before it starts binding?
    Is it possible that muzzle device and barrel are threaded at different pitches?
    You can feel the extra resistance about 1/4" into the threads. It starts to really slow down just past half way mark and I don't really want to push it any further.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckjay View Post
    You can feel the extra resistance about 1/4" into the threads. It starts to really slow down just past half way mark and I don't really want to push it any further.
    Sounds like the muzzle device has way too much anodyzing(sp?) in it.
    If you don't have that tap, I'd swing into an Autozone or Discount Autoparts and ask to borrow a 1/2"-28 tap and run it through in the parking lot. It will save you the cost if that isn't the issue, but it sounds like something is wrong at that end, especially if you have an A2 that will thread onto the barrel and a visual inspection doesn't show any flat spots on the threads of the barrel.
    You dig your grave with your fork.

  9. #19
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    Don't guess, don't spend money until you have to, and don't jump into this.

    Find someone at your gun club, or a buddy, who has a factory-threaded barrel. Try your muzzle device on his barrel. That will give you a big head's-up as to where the problem is.

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