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Thread: Krylon paint job

  1. #21
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    Anyone who's ever cleaned any paint, off anything, probably is not eager to do it again anytime soon - generally it turns into a dirty sweaty mess that takes you twice as long as you thought it would. Plus you are attacking the finish with aggressive solvents which will probably work - but the risk of damaging the original finish is a near certainty..

    two words - camouflage tape.
    Last edited by Markasaurus; 02-26-13 at 14:32.

  2. #22
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    Who cares about the finish...it's a tool. Paint.

    Tape comes off when it's most inconvenient, and leaves residue.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markasaurus View Post
    Anyone who's ever cleaned any paint, off anything, probably is not eager to do it again anytime soon - generally it turns into a dirty sweaty mess that takes you twice as long as you thought it would. Plus you are attacking the finish with aggressive solvents which will probably work - but the risk of damaging the original finish is a near certainty..

    two words - camouflage tape.
    Two words - Acetone dip.

    Anodizing is a chemical process which results in a physical change to the surface. If you don't roughen the finish prior to applying paint, you can dunk the part in solvent and it will emerge as it was prior to being painted no worse for wear.

    If you use something like an acid etch primer (like I do), you will have etching at a microscopic level, but it's also possible that it may come out undetected by the naked eye. I haven't stripped any AR parts which have been painted with the etching primer yet, so I can't confirm anything there.

  4. #24
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    Krylon paint job

    Quote Originally Posted by eodinert View Post
    Who cares about the finish...it's a tool. Paint.

    Tape comes off when it's most inconvenient, and leaves residue.
    My thoughts exactly.
    Power is in tearing human minds to pieces and putting them together again in new shapes of your own choosing. George Orwell, 1984

  5. #25
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    Krylon paint job

    Agreed!

  6. #26
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    I just stripped my after being painted with Aervoe and Rustoleum. Came off fine.

    There was a bit of residue left, but hot soapy water took that off just fine. No damage to the original coating.

    Laid down my new coats of paint.

  7. #27
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    So far I've painted six of my rifles, two suppressors and a couple handguns. Also have painted three or four rifles that belong to friends, two to a forum member here.

    It just works. Aervoe comes off with just a little work, Krylon even easier for me. But, on polymer it can be a pain in the ass.
    Proven combat techniques may not be flashy and may require a bit more physical effort on the part of the shooter. Further, they may not win competition matches, but they will help ensure your survival in a shooting or gunfight on the street. ~ Paul Howe

  8. #28
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    What about stripping paint off of plastics like glock lowers

  9. #29
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    Honestly I dont even wipe mine down before I paint them. Its not a Ferrari.....It actually gets used.

    Even with prep...using Krylon is gonna WEAR guaranteed. That being said, I try and double or triple coat ares that see lots of contact with bare hands, however when it wears, it just adds to breaking up shape and still works.

    My magwells usually see the most contact when shooting kneeling or prone.

    The Shawty has never been touched up....






    The M4 got a touch up once....this is before. Both Carbines were sprayed...no prep

    Quote Originally Posted by Split66 View Post
    I wouldnt listen to BCMjunkie. His brown camo clashes like hell with his surroundings. His surroundings are obviously pinkish and lacey and have big hooties.

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  10. #30
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    I'm getting ready to clean and refinish one of mine sometime this year.

    One of my concerns is how well the various paints show under IR light.

    Anyone know anything about this?
    Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. - T. Jefferson

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