Help Please: new to Aimpoint Micro H1

[Ledanek]

Once you get the red dot zero'd you place it on your target and squeeze......works the same from CQB distances out to your zero.

Have you signed up for or taken any carbine classes? In person instruction goes a long way to explaining much of this and eliminate much of the overthinking.

Mr Travis Haley has a class in Indiana come May. After what had happened to Chief Chris Kyle, my wife had begged me not to attend until I get some body armor at least. Ammo and the acquisition of body armor is my latest drama.

This is gonna go off topic but I'm pissed at having to pay $69 for finger-print at non-government institution to have my background check. My problem is not the background check itself, it's these private vendors. I read and here bad stories about how a they screwed up taking finger prints or getting them mixed up, ruining your background for life, or until you lawyer up.
I didn't hear stories like that when local PD or State Troopers did that.
I'm much comfortable with LEO doing the background checks.

Sorry for my rant. Hopefully, come May I'll be able to attend Mr Haley's class, or get more ammo in Illinois.

These Politicians... I swear, I'm getting carpal tunnel from writing to them weekly to resign or step down from office for breaking their oath of office.
I wish I live in Texas where Patriots lives and breathe America.
Again sorry for my rants.

[Hmac]

Once you get the red dot zero'd you place it on your target and squeeze......works the same from CQB distances out to your zero.

Except for height-over-bore correction.

[Ledanek]

Except for height-over-bore correction.

can you elaborate sir.

this could be educational to new RDS owners.

[Litpipe]

A lot of good info here. I learned some things from this.

[tb-av]

can you elaborate sir.

this could be educational to new RDS owners.

Not to speak for Hmac but I think he means if your irons and red dot are hitting the same spot at 25yrds they too will hit the same spot at 100yrds but... that doesn't mean you won't have to use hold over or hold under to hit your desired mark depending on distance.

also about your trying to align the RDS with an iron. the sight is parallex free meaning you can have your head anywhere and if you can see the red dot, that is where the bullet will go. No further alignment with anything needed ( provided you use correct hold over or under depending on distance. You can think of the red dot as auto-aligning but not auto-zeroing.

Like an autofocus camera can autofocus all all different distances. A red dot can't autozero. so you are always at the mercy of whichever zero you choose. But if you are zeroed at 100 and shooting at 100, if you can see the dot... that's where the bullet is going to hit ( in theory ).

[shootist~]

[QUOTE=Ledanek;1558882]can you elaborate sir.

this could be educational to new RDS owners.[/QUOTE

Consider that the bullet's path starts off ~2.5" below your line of sight. You have to adj your aim at cqb range to compensate. Measure the height of the optic above the bore.


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Hmac]

can you elaborate sir.

this could be educational to new RDS owners.

A bullet from a rifle travels in an arc.

Assume that you're sighting your rifle in at 50 yards. That means that point-of-aim and point-of-impact will be exactly the same at 50 yards. Your Aimpoint or Eotech will be mounted so that its sight line is about 2.5 inches higher than the bore axis of your rifle. So, if you shoot something right at the end of your barrel, the bullet will hit 2.5 inches below where you're aiming. If you move the target out to 10 yards away from your muzzle, it will still hit lower, but maybe 2 inches lower. At 25 yards it will be maybe 1 inch lower, and so on until you get to 50 yards where it will be dead on.

So, in aiming at any target closer than what you zeroed your optic, you have to account for that height-over-bore. Here's a graph of chronograph data from my 16 inch AR15 sighted in at 50 yards with an Aimpoint on a standard mount. It may explain it a little better:

[tb-av]

Do you see on your target where the two fat black lines cross?

that is where you are supposed to have your sights. red dot or irons. When you aim there, the bullet holes should hit in the dotted circle ( low ). Then if you moved the target out to 50M(or 200M) the bullet hit right on the intersection of the two fat black lines.

If you move it to 100M the bullet will hit above that mark. If there was another dotted circle above the center it would hit in that.

Soo.. if you are CGB under 25 it's going to hit even lower than that 25 dotted circle your shots are in.

If you are not clear on that. Maybe you know that. If you are aiming at the dotted circle then you are zero at 25 but that is a 50M zero target with indicators to allow use at 25 ( the bullets hit low in dotted circle ).
So for instance at 10 yards you will hit under the dotted circle and at 80 yrs you would hit right about shoulder/neck level all the while holding sights at 10-0.

He has 100yrd zero targets that look very similar and if you use it you won;t have to work over under because it will be on at 100 and then under for anything closer. Of course it will be over for 100 and over until it gets to near 300 I think it is.

ETA: Just looked at your comment. You aimed at 14-0. Aim at 10-0 and your round should hit 0-0 ( in a perfect world ). You are then zero'd at 50M. Now read Hmac's chart and you can figure for every distance exactly where your round will hit ( in theory ).

Per chart... aim at 10-0 for all shots.
10 yards you will hit below dotted circle
25 you hit dotted circle
50 you hit exactly where your sights show
80 yards you will hit shoulder level

[Ledanek]

Do you see on your target where the two fat black lines cross?

that is where you are supposed to have your sights. red dot or irons. When you aim there, the bullet holes should hit in the dotted circle ( low ). Then if you moved the target out to 50M(or 200M) the bullet hit right on the intersection of the two fat black lines.

If you move it to 100M the bullet will hit above that mark. If there was another dotted circle above the center it would hit in that.

Soo.. if you are CGB under 25 it's going to hit even lower than that 25 dotted circle your shots are in.

If you are not clear on that. Maybe you know that. If you are aiming at the dotted circle then you are zero at 25 but that is a 50M zero target with indicators to allow use at 25 ( the bullets hit low in dotted circle ).
So for instance at 10 yards you will hit under the dotted circle and at 80 yrs you would hit right about shoulder/neck level all the while holding sights at 10-0.

He has 100yrd zero targets that look very similar and if you use it you won;t have to work over under because it will be on at 100 and then under for anything closer. Of course it will be over for 100 and over until it gets to near 300 I think it is.

ETA: Just looked at your comment. You aimed at 14-0. Aim at 10-0 and your round should hit 0-0 ( in a perfect world ). You are then zero'd at 50M. Now read Hmac's chart and you can figure for every distance exactly where your round will hit ( in theory ).

Per chart... aim at 10-0 for all shots.
10 yards you will hit below dotted circle
25 you hit dotted circle
50 you hit exactly where your sights show
80 yards you will hit shoulder level

thanks for doing the math for me... I suck at math, but I can color inside the lines

I like your notes on my aim at 14-0. Maybe next time ammo becomes available, I'll just record it off my iPod Touch so its more "real-time" on what I'm doing wrong.

Yes I see the two fat black lines. I'll may start closer than 25 yards next time to keep the math much simpler

[Endur]

I believe rds's are only parallax free from 50m and beyond. Anything less then that you have to use the same cheek weld position you zeroed with. Atleast that is how the M68's were when I was in the Army. That is why it is important to have solid fundementals when you zero for the most accurate zero.

Also like previously said, you have to adjust your sight picture slightly for different distances.

Say you zero at 25m for 300m. POA and POI will be the same at 25m as it will be for 300m but anything inbetween 25m and 300m you will have to aim slightly lower to hit center mass. Less than 25m slightly lower as well. Past 300m you will have to aim higher as you go further out. Same applies for zeroing at 25m for 200, 50m for 200m and so on. The trajectory of the round arcs like his graph.

Cowitness is determined by the height of the optic mount. Like previously said make sure you are not trying to make 1/3 with a absolute mount and visa versa.

Make sure you zero irons first. Then lollipop your red dot to the tip of your front site post as you look through your rear sight. That should get you on paper with the red dot (but not zeroed). When zeroing your red dot do not look through your irons, flip them down if possible just to make sure you don't. To make sure you are doing it right, flip up your irons and look through the sight at your red dot. The dot should be in the center of the optic and the irons well below the dot in the bottom 1/3 (if you have a 1/3 mount). Now then look through your rear iron sight and it should bring up the iron sights and the red dot should be sitting right on top on the front sight post. That should help you know the difference between looking through one or the other.

Dead horse officialy beaten.