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Thread: Idle lower help

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travelingchild View Post
    That is incorrect regarding the Dillon 650 xl and Various other Dillon full size machines.

    The only Dillon Reloading machine that uses a Proprietary 3 Die set up is the Dillon Square Deal which only reload pistol cartridges. Which makes it irrelevant to what the OP is attempting to Load 300blk.
    Thank you for the correction, you're right.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by RIGPIG View Post
    Glad my suggestion started you down the path to enlightenment . Either press will serve you well, probably just a matter of which one you can get your hands on. I've found that the Dillons are readily available for MSRP on GunBroker, and that's probably your best bet as Dillon is claiming 12-16 weeks to turn out orders. The only downside of the Dillon is that it uses a proprietary 3 die setup, and the sets are around $80. Either press can be run without the case feeder and bullet feeder and still churn out 400-500 rounds per hour.
    You'll need the following to get started:
    -press
    -scale
    -case trimmer
    -dies
    -dial calipers (for case measuring and OAL)
    -case lube
    -shell holders
    -case holding trays
    -powder measure
    -powder trickler
    -case tumbler
    -reloading manual
    -case tumbler
    -primer pocket tools
    -bullets
    -primers
    -powder
    -since you'll be cutting down .223/5.56 cases, a mini chopsaw
    I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but just a little research will give you a better idea of what will work best for you. Good luck.
    I would suggest only one case tumbler for starters.
    Last edited by eperk; 07-25-13 at 21:58.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by eperk View Post
    I would suggest only on case tumbler for starters.
    Fixed and fixed. Thanks.

  4. #24
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    this thread will help you on your journey

    http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/38...er_Thread.html

  5. #25
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    Thanks again for all the replies and help.

    I've been looking like I said I would, and I'm leaning towards a single stage press. Not wanting to jump straight into progressive because I'm using the theory "you must crawl before you can walk." I didn't start shooting a $6000 Noveske AR 10 at the age of 8. No, I started shooting bb guns and 22's. So a single stage is what I think it ought to be for me looking into reloading. I want to pay very close attention to every part of the processes that happens in the press; depriming, resizing, crimping, etc. Especially since I'll be using brass that's been cut down to a whole new different size and necked down again.

    I've scoped out the press, 300 blackout two die set, and the odds and ends for working with and cleaning, deburring the brass. All being RCBS products. If I make several thousand rounds a year, I should be good with RCBS from I've read in all the reviews.

    Now for a techincal question that I cannot find so easily: Can anyone tell me if Norma 203-B powder would work for 300 blackout? Maybe even subs? I found load data for it in .223 and .308. It's replicated Reloader 15 and Hodgdon 380 powder. Just wondering if I could use it because I've found plenty of it available, considering the 16 week wait times. R-7, H110, and AA1680 are non existent these days.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
    - Mark Twain

  6. #26
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    Rigpig's list is very good, and quite comprehensive. It is a good idea to start out with a single stage press before a progressive. If you don't know what you are doing, a progressive allows you to turn out alot of bad out of spec ammo.

    If you need to save money and aren't doing huge volumes immediately, there are many ways to save a couple bucks. A powder measure is not required if you are willing to trickle your charges, and actually works better for hard to meter stick powders. Also, you can do without a case tumbler, there are other ways to clean cases. I have also reloaded minimally cleaned cases as well with no ill effects (many would argue this would ruin dies, scratch cases, etc but I have never observed this, as long as the dirt is powder residue).

    Items not to skimp on are your scale, dies, calipers, or trimmer. These are essential for producing concentric ammo, with a consistent OAL and identical powder charge.

    In terms of powder, something with a burn rate like that of RL-15 is too slow for the 300 BLK. Other alternatives to RL-7 or H110 are Alliant 300 MP, IMR 4227, Accurate 5744, or Lil'gun. Lil'gun is actually a very good choice as it meters very well, burns cleanly, and is quite accurate. In addition, it can be used for both super and subsonic loads. For subs, you can also use powders like H4198.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic2377 View Post
    It is a good idea to start out with a single stage press before a progressive. If you don't know what you are doing, a progressive allows you to turn out alot of bad out of spec ammo.
    I'm going to be the odd man out here, It doesn't matter what press or equipment a reloader uses, single stage, progressive, auto index etc. If you don't know what you're doing any press can turn out alot of bad ammo.
    To the OP get a Dillon 550 treat as a single stage till you learn and never look back,
    Hop over to the reloading section and check out the threads there.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travelingchild View Post
    To the OP get a Dillon 550 treat as a single stage till you learn and never look back,
    Hop over to the reloading section and check out the threads there.
    This is good advice. I see no point in starting with a single stage if you've got the money and time to learn on a progressive. You'll grow out of that single stage in about an hour. It's always necessary when working up a new load to make a small sample of 3 or 5 and measure them for OAL, and then take them out and shoot them before you load hundreds of rounds. If you shoot much at all, that single stage will not meet your needs.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RIGPIG View Post
    This is good advice. I see no point in starting with a single stage if you've got the money and time to learn on a progressive. You'll grow out of that single stage in about an hour. It's always necessary when working up a new load to make a small sample of 3 or 5 and measure them for OAL, and then take them out and shoot them before you load hundreds of rounds. If you shoot much at all, that single stage will not meet your needs.
    I disagree. I have used a Rockchucker for years. I shoot hundreds of rounds a week. It meets my needs and I would recommend it for any beginning reloader.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic2377 View Post

    In terms of powder, something with a burn rate like that of RL-15 is too slow for the 300 BLK. Other alternatives to RL-7 or H110 are Alliant 300 MP, IMR 4227, Accurate 5744, or Lil'gun. Lil'gun is actually a very good choice as it meters very well, burns cleanly, and is quite accurate. In addition, it can be used for both super and subsonic loads. For subs, you can also use powders like H4198.
    I appreciate that. This is where my learning curve is taking a definate dive. The more I read the more cross eyed I get with all the numbers and absolutely zero experience. I'm getting a little better and less lost though.

    My dad reloads for 338/378 weatherby and 7mm ultra mag. He's come up with some fantastic loads too. I forsee some long conversations with him once I get home. He may not be able to give me great advice on 300 BLK, .223 or especially subsonic loads, but I know he'll have a lot info about powders and what their numbers mean.
    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
    - Mark Twain

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