Just got my US Optics SN-4 6X DFP

[Low Drag]

I received my scope a week ago, got it mounted but mother nature did not allow me to get out and zero Sunday. I'm sure I could have done some shooting but due to the wind & snow I would not have gotten a good zero.

I'll jump over the obvious regarding glass, fit/finish etc. First I can't believe I spent this much on an optic so the obvious stuff better be up to par.

It came with scope covers, manual, warranty info etc. Their manual alone educated me more about scopes, how they work, the erector etc than anything else I've ever read.

I got it with an illuminated reticle and EREK knob w/1/10mil adjustments. They forgot to include the EREK tool kit. A quick email to Becky, I got it a few days after the email exchange. The kit comes with wrenches to adjust the EREK knob an windage scale as well as a top for the EREK knob to keep the weather / crud out after you have it adjusted.

The illumination IS NOT visible in day light. Only the segmented circle and a dot in the center are illuminated. At least the center of the cross hair does illuminate so at 6X the optic is usable in low light for precise shots. I assume all the illumination is on the rear focal plain. The illumination switch is a very good design. The EREK knob offers 9 mils of adjustment in one full revolution. That should be more than enough to take a 100 yard zero out to 600 yards for both my 55gr and 75 gr loads.

I have it mounted in a LaRue Tactical SPR / M4 1.93" QD LT135 (the high one that is 1.93" Vs the normal 1.5") on a Noveske Recce VTac w/SS barrel MOD 0 chamber.

I was able to adjust the EREK knob, it allows you to move the erector in the scope body independent of the actual scope adjustment knob. This allows you to run the knob down to a 'zero stop' and keep the erector in the center of the scope. I attempted to use a laser bore sight, it was a waste of time. I ended up just going old school by putting the upper in a cradle and bore sighted it 3" high at about 30'.

After I get it zeroed I'll attempt to do all the checks the manual recommends to see if the scope is adjusted properly. After all that I'll put some thread locker on the scope mount screws.

I hope to get out this Sunday to test drive this pig and let the group know how it works out. When I'm comfortable with the zero I'll see if the reticle and adjustments match up by stepping up the target with diagonal dots, measuring the dots (in mils) and adjust the scope (in mils) to see if the rounds hit the dot up and to the right if I hold the same point of aim. That will verify the adjustments and if I have the scope mounted 'level'.

[Low Drag]

OK Gents, finally got out to the range with the new unit. It was a good day for getting a zero. A bit over case and about 45 degrees. I had a slight 12 o'clock breeze so no big deal.

Again, the bore sight was next to useless and went back to my tried and true method of shooting at 25 yards to get me on paper. 3 shots and I was good to go for 100 yds.

Since I had already did my best to get the elevation turret set to a zero stop I used the center 1/8" hex to adjust elevation. It was VERY sensitive, a small movement of the wrench created quite a bit of movement on paper. Needless to say it took me a few more shots to get used to it. Once I had a feel for it I was able to get close enough to use the elevation knob.

I noted the cross hairs a a bit on the heavy side but useable. I used 1.5" orange dots on standard copy paper with 1" grids printed on them. The cross hairs nearly obscured the 1.5" dots, I prefer that so I can see just a smidge of orange in each corner of the cross hair for a fine hold. I was happy I had a dot that worked with the cross hairs.

I found the 6X setting to be very helpful at 100 yds, much better than the old 4X I had. I expect this to be very nice at longer ranges.

After getting my zero I was able to perform a simple test of the reticle. I noted my last clean dot on paper was just about 1 mil above the dot I just shot at. I ran the elevation knob up 1 mil and shot a 3 shot group. Bingo.

When I got home I had the wife assist me with verifying the scope is level. I leveled the gun in a cradle and had her turn the EREK knob while I had the edge of the cross hair on a window frame about 130 yards away. I note the cross hair move down the window frame and seemed to be level.

Next weekend I plan on getting out and taking more time. I want to try a box or step test. If any of you guys have some tips for either of these tests I'd love the input.

Bottom line thus far is the optic is meeting my expectations. To be clear I have very high expectations from a US Optics product. So far I really like this and I'm happy I dropped the coin on it.

[dukduk]

do you prefer the higher mount?

[Low Drag]

I do like the higher mount. It seems to put it at the some height as a red dot on a riser. I seem to be able to hold my head up when I'm shooting fast up close.

It does not seem to bother me when shooting off the bipod or bench. I'm really looking forward to trying the the box or step tests with it then move to the 200 yd line to work with it of the bipod.

From here I'll work with it up close. I don't find fast close work to be that challenging so I'll save it for last. I would like to challenge some of my shooting buddies with Eotechs to run the 1-5 drill.

From there it's off to some National Forest land to get some distance and use my gong.

[mkmckinley]

I appreciate the review. I haven't seen much hands on with this optic so it's good that you're actually using it and posting results.

[Low Drag]

I appreciate the review. I haven't seen much hands on with this optic so it's good that you're actually using it and posting results.

I know there are plenty of folks here that know a great deal about optics, I'm fairly new to them.

Like I said, given the price and reputation of US Optics I have very high expectations. So far so good.

I hope to hell I don't have issues with the duel focal plain feature as others have had. I'm certain they'll stand behind the product, I just don't want the hassle. I think the 6X is really nice, I know it's only 2X over the 4X I had but it is a big difference.

[Low Drag]

It was a nice day to get to the range today, terrible yesterday but nice and sunny today. I was able to get there early enough to shoot before the sun started kicking a ton of glare off the fresh snow.

1st, now that there's some snow I noticed a foreign object or imperfection in the upper right quad of the glass. It must be in the rear as it did not change size when I zoomed in or it's dust on one of them. But it does look like a donut.

I learned something about zeroing the EREK turret. You don't want to be too close to the bottom of travel with your zero, else it won't adjust properly. I had my zero set last week with only 2 click down available, this was too close. I've now set the 'hard stop' 8 clicks below my turret zero.

I was able to shoot a box test and was happy with the results. I moved it 2 mils in each direction at 100 yards for the test. If anyone knows more on scopes and box tests and that's not quite enough please jump in!

Next week I plan to go back to the 100 yd line and repeat my zeroing to be sure I'm on target then move to the 200 yd line for more work and possibly another box test. I still have a bit to learn about setting the EREK knob. It's sophisticated and requires a bit to come up to speed with it. However I'm very happy I ordered the scope with the EREK knob. It's really slick.

So far so good.

[shootist~]

Sounds like you have the EREK adjustments figured out. If not, post #8 in this thread on the Hide may help. I once had a good video link as well, but it no longer works.

The EREK was an expensive option on my 1.5-6, but I wanted a Zero Stop so I could dial and come back to zero by feel. I left a half mil (5 clicks) available down adjustment - I zero the knob at 200 Meters, so the true hard stop is really 100. I also left the temporary cover (with hole for the Allen wrench) in place for quite awhile before I was finally convinced my settings were final.

How is the 2nd focal plane center dot on yours working out - still perfectly centered in the cross-hair at both low and high power?

[Low Drag]

Sounds like you have the EREK adjustments figured out. If not, post #8 in this thread on the Hide may help. I once had a good video link as well, but it no longer works.

The EREK was an expensive option on my 1.5-6, but I wanted a Zero Stop so I could dial and come back to zero by feel. I left a half mil (5 clicks) available down adjustment - I zero the knob at 200 Meters, so the true hard stop is really 100. I also left the temporary cover (with hole for the Allen wrench) in place for quite awhile before I was finally convinced my settings were final.

How is the 2nd focal plane center dot on yours working out - still perfectly centered in the cross-hair at both low and high power?

Now that you mention it and I take a very close look the rear dot does seem to move around the cross hair as I zoom it in. I think it's a bit off at 1.5X, but I can live with it. HOWEVER, if it's off at 6X then I'll have a problem.

Regarding the thread on the Hide, can you give me a link?

Thanks

[shootist~]

Here you go. You can do a search over there as well - there are lots of posts related the the EREK adjustment system.

Yeah - My SFP center dot is on at 6x but off more than I like it a 1.5. Not enough to make a difference at close range, but it still bugs me for what I paid.

http://forum.snipershide.com/showthr...highlight=EREK