Scope leveling

[Alaskapopo]

Saw a video where a Nightforce scope was leveld with two triangle shaped wedges that when pushed together under the scope and the rail leveled the scope. Where do I get these triangle shaped metal wedges. Trying the bubble levels for some time and its not correct I am having 3 to 4 inches of drift to the right at 400 yards with no wind.
Pat

[steyrman13]

Saw a video where a Nightforce scope was leveld with two triangle shaped wedges that when pushed together under the scope and the rail leveled the scope. Where do I get these triangle shaped metal wedges. Trying the bubble levels for some time and its not correct I am having 3 to 4 inches of drift to the right at 400 yards with no wind.
Pat

Spuhr sells them with their mounts, but You might can buy them seperately. it is still best to get behind the gun and hang a string with a plumb bob and go through your elevation adjustments to make sure the reticle stays on track with the string. The bottom of the turret housing is supposed to be level with the adjustements, although it can be off so you should double check with the above mentioned way

[JohnnyC]

Spuhr makes it, and any QUALITY scope SHOULD have the reticle and erector square to the bottom of the turret. It takes all of 30 seconds to get it level and tight. Check afterwards on the edge of something you know is square then final torque. It's something like $30, probably not worth it for one scope but then again unless you already have a plumb bob or levels those probably aren't worth it either unless you get them cheap. For doing several scopes at once, or you know you will be doing several over the course of a reasonably short time, it makes sense and saves time.

Hakan is very precise in what he does, it's a very simple, but effective tool. I should mention you must have a full length rail as the bottom piece is made to slide in a picatinny slot.

[Alaskapopo]

Spuhr makes it, and any QUALITY scope SHOULD have the reticle and erector square to the bottom of the turret. It takes all of 30 seconds to get it level and tight. Check afterwards on the edge of something you know is square then final torque. It's something like $30, probably not worth it for one scope but then again unless you already have a plumb bob or levels those probably aren't worth it either unless you get them cheap. For doing several scopes at once, or you know you will be doing several over the course of a reasonably short time, it makes sense and saves time.

Hakan is very precise in what he does, it's a very simple, but effective tool. I should mention you must have a full length rail as the bottom piece is made to slide in a picatinny slot.

I can't find it on the web site. I have several scopes I would like to have leveled properly.
Pat

[Low Drag]

Spuhr sells them with their mounts, but You might can buy them seperately. it is still best to get behind the gun and hang a string with a plumb bob and go through your elevation adjustments to make sure the reticle stays on track with the string. The bottom of the turret housing is supposed to be level with the adjustements, although it can be off so you should double check with the above mentioned way

I like that idea! I have done all the things I can to mount my new US Optics 1-6X level but testing with a string is a great idea. I think I'll give it a shot before heading to the range to zero it.

[T2C]

I use a string with a plumb bob to check the reticle on calm days. On windy days I draw a 36" line on cardboard and use a carpenter's level to plumb the line when I staple the cardboard to the the target holder.

When you shoot the box test, you can use the cardboard for the left or right side of the box and watch for rounds cutting the line you drew. Sometimes what appears to be a level reticle is not and you have to make minor adjustments.

The triangles used to quickly level the scope crosshairs sound like a time saver. I am going to look into getting a set.

[Failure2Stop]

Saw a video where a Nightforce scope was leveld with two triangle shaped wedges that when pushed together under the scope and the rail leveled the scope. Where do I get these triangle shaped metal wedges. Trying the bubble levels for some time and its not correct I am having 3 to 4 inches of drift to the right at 400 yards with no wind.
Pat

A bit excessive for just spin drift.

Possible that you have a canted reticle.

[steyrman13]

There is a great tutorial stickied in Snipershide forums under optics about leveling and plumb check, as mention you can draw a line with a level on cardboard as well. The plumb is more for indoors at I think 25ft or yards if enough space granted.

[shootist~]

I'm somewhat of a chronic canter - and that will drift it off. (Wind different at the target and in-between will do it too, of course.)

A simple deck of cards and some care in tightening the screws has worked best for me on several mounts/re-mounts.

[JohnnyC]

You can see the wedge here. I ordered from Mile High Shooting, they've always been very good to me as far as precision stuff goes. I also have the level that's built into the Spuhr separate rings so I can't even induce cant by incorrectly installing an anti-cant device. Between the two, there's nothing to blame but me if I screw a shot due to cant.