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Thread: Technical Tip of The Day

  1. #41
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    A spare QRP2 mount works great as a supplemental vise block.
    B.A.S. Mechanical Engineering Technology

  2. #42
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    Re: Technical Tip of The Day

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric D. View Post
    A spare QRP2 mount works great as a supplemental vise block.
    I like that one! I've got one sitting on my bench and had no idea what to do with it other than chuck it into the parts box.

  3. #43
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    Fitting of the Lower Receiver Extension

    I have seen a few issues as of late in regards to the fitting of the lower receiver extension into the lower receiver. There are a variety of factors that come into play.

    1. Lower Receiver Extension- Not all receiver extensions are the same. I have noticed that the commercial tubes are by far not as well made as the MILSPEC ones. The fitting issues come into play when it comes to aligning the tube and keep it straight.

    2. Endplates- Not all endplates are the same and some are so crappy that they easily deform or "splinter" when staking them. I have had good luck with Colt, BCM, LMT and Vltor.

    3.Lube (Grease or Anti-Seize). Use some grease or anti-seize on the threads and work them ahead of installation. This will also help you in regards to detecting any irregularities. Also work the castle nut at this time.

    4. Alignment and Tightening- Once you know that everything will go together correctly and you have the tube in place, tighten the castle nut by hand and check the alignment. Most good tubes and plates will allow for slight rotation when torquing the castle nut. To help counter this, place your stock on the tube and hold it snugly. I find it best to snug the castle nut at this time with a tool like the Hammerhead.

    Once it is tight, you can place the torque wrench or breaker bar on the on the tool and continue to tighten the castle nut.

    A few things that will greatly assist are the Hammerheadrifletool, a good receiver extension from Colt, BCM, LMT or Vltor and good good endplates from the same.



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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    Once it is tight, you can place the torque wrench or breaker bar on the on the tool and continue to tighten the castle nut.
    Is there a torque range that you shoot for? I've honestly never heard of using a torque wrench for these...only tighten as much as you can with the tool (in hand) and then stake...which I still need to do...

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironman8 View Post
    Is there a torque range that you shoot for? I've honestly never heard of using a torque wrench for these...only tighten as much as you can with the tool (in hand) and then stake...which I still need to do...
    40 inch lbs. You will need an inch pound torque wrench...
    Last edited by Airhasz; 04-03-13 at 08:23.
    'Evil Minds That Plot Destruction'

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airhasz View Post
    40 inch lbs. You will need an inch pound torque wrench...
    40 INCH lbs??

    I could do that with my pinky

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airhasz View Post
    40 inch lbs. You will need an inch pound torque wrench...
    That was a mis-print and has been corrected as far as I know. It should be 40 ft/lb.
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  8. #48
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    Isn't that the same torque spec as most barrels?

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by _Stormin_ View Post
    Isn't that the same torque spec as most barrels?
    Yes, it's within that range.

    I just don't know why it would be necessary to put a torque wrench on it to get a specific torque number when you will be staking it

    Unless you're torquing it with your purse, you should be able to get it tight enough that when combined with staking will be all you would ever need.

    But I'm still waiting for Gunz's answer here...

  10. #50
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    You really don't need a torque wrench.
    Last edited by Eric D.; 04-03-13 at 11:10.
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