From this thread: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=48596
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From this thread: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=48596
Semper Paratus Certified AR15 Armorer
40-80 ft/lb for barrel nuts. The range is to allow for aligning the teeth with the gas tube.
The TM calls out 35-39 ft/lb for an A2 buffer tube. Ken Elmore has posted on TOS that he uses 35 for A2's, and 40 for castle nuts. He's also the one that pointed out the mis-print. Per Ken, "All torque values in the TM are in ft/lb except the gas key screws."
I'm not sure if the grip screw has a torque value in the TM, but it should probably be more in the in/lb range as well.
Semper Paratus Certified AR15 Armorer
The manual specifies a torque value just like they do for the barrel nut and carrier key screws. They do this in the event that you have a retard behind the wrench and mitigate human error.
It seems as of late people want to pick apart and dissect every statement that is made instead of just listening to the message that is being put out.
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In case you forgot where this thread is located (as the OP I doubt it), take a gander at the top of the screen where it says "AR TECHNICAL Discussion"....hell even the thread title says "Technical" in it. Ergo, if it is out of line to ask specific "technical" questions that tend to "dissect", then maybe this thread needs a new name and a new home.![]()
I think the thing to bear in mind here is this is supposed to be more of a professional forum. The general consensus here is that you probably shouldn't "build" your first AR. This isn't like ARFCOM's "build it yourself" forum where you have guys trying to assemble their first lower receiver in their lap using vise grips and duct tape. So, with that in mind, it's safe to assume that non-amateurs have a general idea about how tight a castle nut should be. Tighten it and stake it. Don't obsess over what exact spec to torque it to.
Then again, for engineer-minded people like myself, I enjoy the specs. It makes me feel good to know them, share them, and apply them. At the end of the day, though, a torque spec on a castle nut is simply a safety net created to prevent some jackleg with zero common sense from either hand-tightening it or cranking on it until he snaps the receiver in half. Torque specs are like the "Hot" warnings on McDonald's coffee - legal measures to protect against litigation from the mechanically-challenged. (<---That's sigline material, right there.)
Semper Paratus Certified AR15 Armorer
Honest to God, I think you just described how I put my first lower together...minus the duct tape. That lower has seen 5k rounds with all the same internals as day 1. But I guess I'm just not mechanically-challenged
(I have most all the cool tools now, so any lower I get my hands on are now assembled with the correct tools.)
PS - It is actually my lack of obsession over the torque value that led me to my original question about said value...as I didn't know there was one![]()
Last edited by Ironman8; 04-03-13 at 13:37.
Well, while we're having AR15 confessional: I'd never heard of staking the castle nut until I joined this site. I've been into AR's since 2002 and had built several and worked on countless more. Most of my "education" was "on the bench" at the shop where I worked. Because I was mechanically-minded and had that engineer's drive for specifics I began reading (ARFCOM @ that time) and quickly became the "AR guy" at the shop. I diagnosed, fixed and worked on rifles of all shapes and sizes. In fact, when my own receiver extension (Commercial spec RRA extension on a Lauer lower) shot loose, I though, huh, that's weird. I'll fix this (apply blue locktite to threads) and crank it on good and tight. Now that I'm working on more guns for other people I'm a lot more confident having the proper tools and doing things "by the book."
For all the genius in Stoner's design, there sure are a lot of guys, "professional gunsmiths" included that have no clue how things are supposed to go together. That's why I'm taking IG's Armorers course next month here in GA; to further my education and get my "stamp of approval" saying that I knows what I knows.![]()
Semper Paratus Certified AR15 Armorer
Bending the bas tube can work, I'd just align it right though.. I've had a few misaligned tubes come in fro factory guns.
I know exactly what forum this is and its purpose. But since you wanted to lay the bait, I'll spring the trap. You questioned why anyone would need to use a torque wrench. You have been a member here for 2.5 years and apparently you don't know that there are torque values. Additionally it shows me that you spend little time actually reading any of the technical stuff or you wouldn't be asking that question. This particular question has been asked several times over the years. I was simply providing a tip based upon my observations and not provide full detailed instruction on how to do the task. If people really want to learn more they will do some RESEARCH.
Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SemperParatusArms/
Semper Paratus Arms AR15 Armorer Course http://www.semperparatusarms.com/cou...-registration/
M4C Misc. Training and Course Announcements- http://www.m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=141
Master Armorer/R&D at SIONICS Weapon Systems- http://sionicsweaponsystems.com
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