oh i didnt know BCM would do it. how much did they charge?
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oh i didnt know BCM would do it. how much did they charge?
I just saw this and agree. Honestly if you are filled with this many questions about what it is you are going to be performing on your rifle...
Don't. There are so many threads of people that attempted something and are now having to go find that gun smith, or worse. I might be overly cautious here, but if you get a setting incorrect..there are more serious repercussions. A mechanic works on a car...not a rifle. You may get it right, and then you may not. I would rather make sure it gets done right, because my wife or my kids may be shooting it, and I want to know it is done properly.
Date: June 9, 1776
Objects of the most stupendous magnitude, and measure in which the lives and liberties of millions yet unborn are intimately interested, are now before us. We are in the very midst of a revolution the most complete, unexpected and remarkable of any in the history of nations.
Trimming a FSB is actually quite simple, I did mine in about 45 minutes and had never even attempted taking one off before I decided to get a rail. Steel punches and a 2lb hammer from harbor freight did the trick. I got a troy bravo rail so no proprietary stuff, it was stupid easy to do it all. I would not bother sending something like that in or taking it to a gunsmith. I am the DIY type though, partially because I enjoy it and partially because I don't have the cash to pay someone to do stuff.
I had Rainier Arms install a DD rail system because I had a flash hider that needed to be pinned and welded at the same time. Due to needing to take off the FSB, it was $100 for the rail install. I installed the same rail on another rifle with a 16" barrel, it wasn't a pain at all.
If this is a one-time-only type deal, I'd just have someone else do it. My brother has swapped uppers/rails/etc for him and myself at LEAST 50-60 times and it's pretty easy and straightforward but can be costly for the right tools.
Right now, removing the damn FSB is the hardest part. I think installing the barrel nut will be easier.
Installing the YHM bbl nut doesn't require a torque wrench. It's not too hard to do, as long as you are confident/competent with the basic tools, such as punches, hammers, and wrenches.
However: Have you held any other rails outside of the YHM? I had a lightweight on my 6920 until I got the chance to hold an RIS II and a C4. They felt so much better in the hand that I ditched the YHM. They are much smaller in diameter, and their anti-rotation features give you the added security that they won't work the bbl nut loose.
If you are totally sold on the YHM, I have the wrench, rifle-length Lightweight rail, bbl nut, end cap, and specter clamp/bolt-on gas block (.750 diameter bbl) and instructions just sitting here taking up space. PM me if you are interested in it, I'd rather let it go cheap than sit on it.![]()
Last edited by jet66; 03-20-13 at 07:46.
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