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Thread: Removing FSB problem

  1. #61
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    Well I first wiggled the FSB to try to have it aligned. The pins went in, I just lightly tapped them to where they were with a rubber mallet then they stopped moving.

  2. #62
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    You need this.
    Attachment 16084

    Bill Tidler Jr.
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    ...We have long maintained that the only accessories that a 1911 needs are a trigger you can manage, sights that you can see, and a dehorning job. That still goes.
    ~Jeff Cooper

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetidlerjr View Post
    You need this.
    Attachment 16084
    Should it be necessary for putting the pins back in? It seems that they should seat easier but it would make sense that they fit tight since it was so hard to get them out.

    One pin is so damn close to going in that I do not think they are misaligned, while slowly pushing pins in I noticed the FSB slightly moved in place so I think it corrected itself. Also It is cowitnessed with my T1, both out of the box not zeroed, so I think its centered, since the Aimpoints are usually centered from the factory.

  4. #64
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by Zane1844 View Post
    Should it be necessary for putting the pins back in?...
    Maybe a two-pound sledge is a little much but you, sometimes, do need a good, solid blow with more than a mallet to seat them all the way.

    Bill Tidler Jr.
    **************

    ...We have long maintained that the only accessories that a 1911 needs are a trigger you can manage, sights that you can see, and a dehorning job. That still goes.
    ~Jeff Cooper

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by wetidlerjr View Post
    Maybe a two-pound sledge is a little much but you, sometimes, do need a good, solid blow with more than a mallet to seat them all the way.
    Well the mallet was to start I am now using a 16oz hammer.

  6. #66
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    You want to make sure the pins and holes are clean. The tiniest amount of debris will affect how deep they go in. Switch back to a large punch to fully seat the pins. If you think the pins have deformed at all I would replace them. I remember the first fsb I did it did seem hard to get the pins seated to the same depth but there was never an issue with them coming loose. Again, you may find you can set them a little deeper after you put some rounds through it.
    Last edited by Eric D.; 03-28-13 at 13:31.
    B.A.S. Mechanical Engineering Technology

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric D. View Post
    You want to make sure the pins and holes are clean. The tiniest amount of debris will affect how deep they go in. Switch back to a large punch to fully seat the pins. If you think the pins have deformed at all I would replace them. I remember the first fsb I did it did seem hard to get the pins seated to the same depth but there was never an issue with them coming loose. Again, you may find you can set them a little deeper after you put some rounds through it.
    Well, Ill have someone hold it down and I will hit it harder than I have been. I have not been trying to pound them in. If anything I will just leave it and see if they come loose. Maybe PB blaster them, but I do not want that to make them easier to come loose though once they seat.

    I hate to wait till its 68 or warmer to paint it anyway. So I have a week or so.

  8. #68
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    Here's one of Surf's videos, at about 8 minutes he starts reinstalling the fsb and its a good reference of how hard to hit the pins. I wouldn't lube them. Even if they don't go in fully the pins' nature to wedge into the hole will make it so even a lightly set pin won't move without a direct hammer blow.

    I didn't know you planned on painting, I was going to say Birchwood Casey aluminum black works great for touch up.

    ETA: video link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Or7qwDAlMSQ
    Last edited by Eric D.; 03-28-13 at 18:04.
    B.A.S. Mechanical Engineering Technology

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric D. View Post
    Here's one of Surf's videos, at about 8 minutes he starts reinstalling the fsb and its a good reference of how hard to hit the pins. I wouldn't lube them. Even if they don't go in fully the pins' nature to wedge into the hole will make it so even a lightly set pin won't move without a direct hammer blow.

    I didn't know you planned on painting, I was going to say Birchwood Casey aluminum black works great for touch up.
    Yeah I am going to use Brownells Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote.



    And, the video link did not show up, if you left one.

    Thanks for all your help, man!


    Also, I am not too worried about it since the correct torque was most likely applied (about 20lbs) however: when installing the BCM Comp, I only had to move about 40 to 50 degrees max, past hand tight, to get it aligned properly, does the crush washer need to be crushed more than that? I read it can be crushed from 40-340 degrees so I think it is good, but just curious.
    Last edited by Zane1844; 03-28-13 at 14:28.

  10. #70
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    I completely forgot the video link I added it to my post above.

    You're good on the rotation of the comp but by 20 lbs do you mean 20 ft-lbs or 20 lbs applied to the wrench? The minimum torque for the barrel nut is 30 ft-lbs.
    Last edited by Eric D.; 03-28-13 at 18:13.
    B.A.S. Mechanical Engineering Technology

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